Sponsor Our Community
Go Back   The Reef Tank > The Reference Place > Equipment, Start-up, and Education Archive > Skimmers/Equipment/Reactors Archive

Skimmers/Equipment/Reactors Archive Threads about skimmers, auto top off, kalk and calcium reactors, etc.


Registered Members don't see these ads. Register now it's free!

 
 
Thread Tools
Old 11-25-2002, 07:45 AM   #1
Rick O
Good boy
 
Rick O's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Marietta, GA, USA
Posts: 7,889
Images: 54

DI question


I need to replace my DI resin. Can someone tell me the difference in cation and anion? I have separate refillable cartridges for each.
Registered Members don't see these ads. Register now it's free!
__________________
Rick O is offline  
Old 11-25-2002, 05:59 PM   #2
Rick O
Good boy
 
Rick O's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Marietta, GA, USA
Posts: 7,889
Images: 54
Tom? Jerel?
__________________
Rick O is offline  
Old 11-25-2002, 06:52 PM   #3
Spanky
The Border Collie Mod
 
Spanky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: right now? in my chair
Posts: 13,218
Images: 2
Don't ask me. Don't some of those come mixed already?

This is something you need a water expert for.

__________________
Clifford TRT's Mascot -->
Spanky is offline  
Old 11-25-2002, 07:00 PM   #4
Rick O
Good boy
 
Rick O's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Marietta, GA, USA
Posts: 7,889
Images: 54
I thought this was a chemistry question. Aren't you and Tom the experts in that field?
__________________
Rick O is offline  
Old 11-25-2002, 07:12 PM   #5
DKKA
Little Fishy
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Peoria IL
Posts: 136
I believe the simple/conventional answer is that one removes positively charged ions, the other removes negatively charges ions. If that holds water, then you need them both.

You might try www.resindepot.com for a source for bulk resins.

hth,
Dan
DKKA is offline  
Old 11-25-2002, 07:15 PM   #6
clowningaround
Plankton
 
clowningaround's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Tarpon Springs, Florida
Posts: 31

Some help I hope


You could talk to these guys they really know the water business. they always seem to be there any time of day. www.airwaterice.com
clowningaround is offline  
Old 11-25-2002, 07:49 PM   #7
Rick O
Good boy
 
Rick O's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Marietta, GA, USA
Posts: 7,889
Images: 54
Thanks for the links. In case anyone else is interested here is the page with the technical info:
http://apswater.com/page38.html
__________________
Rick O is offline  
Old 11-25-2002, 08:44 PM   #8
Darkfrog
Grateful Phishy
 
Darkfrog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Roswell, Georgia
Posts: 178
Rick,
Do you run RO in front of the DI? I was thinking of just getting a 2-stage DI using with a prefilter like the Kent.
With the high quality of Atlanta area tap water, I didn't know how long the DI carts would last, but I thought maybe the RO would be superfluous.
What's your take?
Darkfrog is offline  
Old 11-25-2002, 09:17 PM   #9
Rick O
Good boy
 
Rick O's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Marietta, GA, USA
Posts: 7,889
Images: 54
Here's the order of my filters:

1) Prefilter with carbon block
2) RO membrane
3) Cation resin
4) Anion resin

Charles (C_K_Kuehne) brought his TDS meter over and tested my product water from my RO/DI and it was 16 so I figure it's time to replace the DI media. It's been about two years and the color has changed gradually and I hadn't noticed that it was used up.

He also tested my tap water and I believe it was around 61 if I remember correctly. He's been testing a lot of peoples water so he could better advise you on the need for RO but my understanding is that it prolongs the life of the DI cartridges.
__________________
Rick O is offline  
Old 11-25-2002, 09:37 PM   #10
Doug1
Ghost of reefers past
 
Doug1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Southern Oregon, Way West of Dimples ;)
Posts: 25,137
Images: 13
I suck at chem, but the RO removes the bulk of mineral salts, etc, the DI tends to remove whatever gets thru the membrane. Using a straight mixed resin DI like the Tap Water Purifier, without an RO before it, will result in greatly decreased lifespan, depending on the source water
__________________
Cowboy is a verb, not a noun
Doug1 is offline  
Old 11-25-2002, 09:45 PM   #11
Darkfrog
Grateful Phishy
 
Darkfrog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Roswell, Georgia
Posts: 178
I do understand that the RO will improve the life of the DI, but I guess my question is how much? Like you said, "depending on the water source." Since we have relatively low TDS in our tap water (RickO got 61, most areas of the country hover around 150), won't an RO be more costly in the long run? If I run RO, I have to replace fairly expensive membranes, not to mention all of the waste water (don't tell me I can recycle it because I am going to plumb the waste line into the drain)
Also, the DI resins can be recharged fairly cheap. I just don't know how to calculate the cost:benefit of running RO first.
Darkfrog is offline  
Old 11-25-2002, 10:09 PM   #12
Doug1
Ghost of reefers past
 
Doug1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Southern Oregon, Way West of Dimples ;)
Posts: 25,137
Images: 13
You have valid points, if your source water isnt bad to start and you don't mind playing with hydrochloric acid and lye, using and recharging DI cartridges night be worth considering. My water is so hard and has ag runoff, I was recharging the DI after about 40-50 gallons, compared to once a year with RO in front. Since I am on a well waste water and city water bills is not an issue for me
__________________
Cowboy is a verb, not a noun
Doug1 is offline  
Old 11-25-2002, 10:16 PM   #13
Darkfrog
Grateful Phishy
 
Darkfrog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Roswell, Georgia
Posts: 178
Quote:
Originally posted by Doug1
You have valid points, if your source water isnt bad to start and you don't mind playing with hydrochloric acid and lye, using and recharging DI cartridges night be worth considering.
Hmm what's cheaper, replacing RO membranes or building a chemistry lab replete with chemical fume hood
This hobby gets me in a lot of trouble.
Darkfrog is offline  
Old 11-25-2002, 10:29 PM   #14
DKKA
Little Fishy
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Peoria IL
Posts: 136
RO membranes don't need to be changed very often. You should easily get a couple years use out of one.
I don't know if it's true, but I read somewhere that they should last indefinitly and only need replaced if they become blocked up (which would be noticed by a decrease in product water)

With your level of TDS I would think an RO membrane would last quite a while.
Of course, that doesn't solve the wastewater issue.

Dan
DKKA is offline  
Old 11-26-2002, 12:59 AM   #15
tdwyatt
senior member
 
tdwyatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Walnut Grove, SC, USA
Posts: 15,148
Images: 46

Re: DI question


Quote:
Originally posted by Rick O
I need to replace my DI resin. Can someone tell me the difference in cation and anion? I have separate refillable cartridges for each.
heh, sorry, I have been out with my little daughter doing pet rescue today...

Short answer is that the cationic resins exchange protons for the positively charged half of ionic substances in the water. They unfortunately will require mostly prefiltered water to remove large polymers and organic substances to prevent their premature exhaustion by these same substances. As they are NOT a mixed resin, they must have a separate anionic resin column to remove the anions, usually exchanging hydroxyl groups for the anions. To achieve the 17 mOsm/ml level of lab water purity, they usually require a RO membrane to remove the larger uncharged molecules prior to the filtrate's exposure to the ion exchange resins. The reason these resins work is that they have been treated with either a strong acid to remove other positively charged cations from the resins and recharge the cationic resin with protons; or a strong base/alkali, which does the same but for anions and uses the hydroxyl ion to recharge the resin. The resins then have more affinity for the substances of higher electron shell need/excess (depending on the ion and its elemental status/number/etc.) As they exchange hydrogen initially and hydroxyl in the second stage, the effluent does not become charged with excessive unwanted elements/ions, but with an excess of "water" as the result of the combination of the proton and the hydroxyl group (to make H2O),

Sorry I didn't see this earlier, hope this helps.

Heck, I think of Craig Bingman when I think of Chemistry experts, I just read a lot...
__________________
Tom <"))))>(
(TDWyatt)
Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -Plato
tdwyatt is offline  
Comparison Shopping
R2 Solutions Target Feeder Feeding Tool

As low as $6

at 3 sellers

175 Watt 14000K Metal Halide Bulb - Single Ended / Mogul - Hamilton

As low as $65

at 7 sellers

Members with more than 50 posts don't see this bar

American Marine Pinpoint Calcium Monitor

As low as $240

at 14 sellers

Flameback Angelfish

As low as $39

at 7 sellers

Members with more than 50 posts don't see this bar

250 Watt 22000K Metal Halide Bulb Single-Ended (Mogul) (All Brands)

As low as $25

at 3 sellers

Hagen Fluval Filter Foam Block 204 / 205 and 304 / 305

As low as $1

at 36 sellers

Members with more than 50 posts don't see this bar

Python 8 x 6 inch Net With 12 inch Handle

As low as $5

at 8 sellers

150 Watt 20000K Metal Halide Bulb - Double Ended - Ushio

As low as $56

at 7 sellers

Members with more than 50 posts don't see this bar

Seachem PhosGuard 1 L

As low as $8

at 14 sellers

Eibli Angelfish

As low as $20

at 10 sellers

Members with more than 50 posts don't see this bar

R2 Complete Fish School Training Kit

As low as $20

at 3 sellers

Aqua UV 8 Watt 3/4 inch w Wiper UV Sterilizer

As low as $165

at 6 sellers

Members with more than 50 posts don't see this bar

Brightwell Aquatics Calcion Liquid Calcium Supplement 2 liters

As low as $6

at 8 sellers

250 Watt 20000K Metal Halide Bulb Single-Ended (Mogul) (All Brands)

As low as $20

at 22 sellers

Members with more than 50 posts don't see this bar

 

Tags
carbon block , craig bingman , gpd membrane , gpd ro , tds meter



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Sitemap:1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160 161 162 163 164 165 166 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180 181 182 183 184 185 186 187 188 189 190 191 192 193 194 195 196
Sponsor Our Community

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:19 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Our lawyer tells us that, by pressing the "New Thread" or "New Reply" button, you acknowledge that the opinions and information expressed in your article are yours alone and not those of thereeftank.com, dba The Reef Tank. Further, you agree to indemnify The Reef Tank, its moderators, administrators and agents from any and all liability which may arise as a result of your article. (C)opyright 2006 TheReefTank.com
 
close
Sign up for free and join one of the largest communities of saltwater aquarists!
Our members will be glad to help you with anything you need!

Join over 30,000 TRT members!

Email

Email Confirm Email
Username
Password Confirm Password

I agree to the website rules