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Old 03-12-2001, 10:06 AM   #1
cafamore
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: windham nh
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Question

YOUR OPINION NEEDED........?


ok i know some of the questions i'm giong to ask are personal prefrence but would like peoples opinions
quick run down of tank to help everyone out
110 gallon 28 inches deep
100 lb fiji
5 inches sand
homemade refuguim in basement
blue damsel, tomato clown, yellow tang and blue mandrin
gren brittle brown brittle, 2 serpent stars pep. shrimp sea cuke some shrooms , white carpet anemone and a coral banded shrimp

QUESTIONS

1 been dosing b-ionic 30 ml 3 times a week i was told this will help coralline grow calcium is at 448 am i waste money add this at this point

2 going to add 2 250 metal halides in next week or so want to supplement with vho's or power compacts which is better and how much more....will have clams some day

3 fish want something with colors and will get along with others..blue damsel will go.

4 carpet will not take food have tried fresh mussels shrimp etc have chopped it left it whole covered it with selcon but no luck. have been adding 2 cups DT's every thrid day but i've read if i don't keep him full he'll look else where for lunch. any help on feeding him

5 will coralline algea grow with florecents
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Old 03-12-2001, 04:37 PM   #2
dark horge
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Hi reefer-wanna-be,

1) If you see no result, then you probably ARE wasting your money. This is probably not the product's fault --corallines need more than just available calcium, and they are suppressed by far more than a 'lack' of calcium!

2) I'll let others talk about electrical lighting.

3) I'd suggest the more colorful gobies, but then maybe their too stationary for you

4) A white anemone is in all likelihood 'bleached', that is to say that it has lost its zooxanthellae. Without symbiotic zooxanthellae to produce starches and sugars via photosynthesis, the anemone has little source of nutrition save by ingesting food. Your anemone's refusal to accept such food can mean that:
a) the portions are too large
b) the food isn't fresh enough
c) the anemone is so starved it has begun digesting its own tissue, starting with the gut tissue it needs to digest any food!

You need to light that animal properly. If it can recruit the appropriate dinoflagellates (the zooxanthellae) from the water, it will turn dirty (eventually even) tan. From the nutrition it gathers thence, it can rebuild both tissue and a healthier appetite for offered foods.

Once the animal was expanding properly, and hogging the light, I'd start with very fresh shrimp bits, the size of a pinhead, and NOT coax the animal to ingest it, just letting it fall on the tentacles near the mouth: ingestion can take minutes.

5) The amount of food you're putting into the tank may be a greater concern than the amount of light, as far as coralline algae are concerned.

Heightened nutrient levels encourage all manner of algal and bacterial films to get a leg up on the corallines you prefer.

In the wild, coralline algae is found even in very poor light, and they are aided by low nutrient levels and especially a horde of herbivores to ensure their dominance. Corallines are well armored against most herbivores, so naturally they keep on growing while their algal rivals get mowed down by snails, fish, certain urchins, etc.

Lastly, you need corallines to get corallines. Training water current on a piece of LR with coralline growth on it can potentially spread coralline spores throughtout the tank.

Let's be clear. There is a big difference between feeding a tank and overfeeding a tank. Only the reactions/appetites of your tank inhabitants will help you judge

hth,
dh
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Old 03-12-2001, 07:31 PM   #3
bill-e
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Lighting: For tanks 28" deep it's recommended to go with 400w.

I'd recommend a pair of 400w 65k Iwasaki's supplemented with VHO.

Right now you can get the dual PFO/Iwasaki 400w retro kit for $335 at premium aquatics. the 250w setup is only $10 less.

You can do VHO pretty cheap unless you decide on the IceCap ballast.

B-Ionic. I'd keep it up. I've found B-ionic to be a great coralline booster. You dont mention how long you've been dosing it, but I like the stuff.

DT's: I'd slow that way down. All you're feeding with that stuff is the microfauna and maybe the fanworms. Certainly the anemone isnt using it.
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Old 03-12-2001, 07:37 PM   #4
wagnutz69
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Can help on the Carpet possibly. I have same type of situation in my tank (125). He WILL NOT eat, yet he continues to grow. Does he look healthy, open completely/possibly growing??? Mine seems to be living off of the light/filter feeding, and is happy every day i look at him. Have had him 6 mths, and was 10" when i bought him, open wide, and now is 15" to 16" after that period of time. He hasn't taken one single drop of food i have tried to feed him.

WAGZ
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