would you say its dying already?

[Loverotties]

Sounds like a good flow.Good luck with him.

[Tynan Rasmus]

I think its too late, but now this brings me to another q ......... can a dying elegance give off something in the water that can kill inverts? since this has started, I have seen alot of dead/dying snails.

[skeety]

hmmm...chicken or the egg.

Are there other corals in your tank? How are then doing?

A dying snail (if it goes uneaten) can muck up a tank quite a bit. It's more likely a dead snail could be affecting the elegance than it is the other way around. But could just be concidence too.

Or a common source could have hurt them both.

Def put the flow at least partially back on the EC. Keep us posted!

[Tynan Rasmus]

I have removed the elegance from the tank this morning as the entire tank was full of its decaying skin floating all over the place. There are tons of other coral in the tank and they are all doing great. The only dead snails in the tank were all around where the elegance was dying. they seemed to be surrounding it.

[dobejazz]

Sorry for your loss

[jenajet]

Man so sorry, that stinks. Do you have another tank to hold it in maybe?

[Tynan Rasmus]

Its in the sump for now, but its lookin pretty bad, I dont think it will turn around. The sump has only a 10,000k daylight, and the only flow its getting is from the drain off, so it should like the conditions.

[skeety]

uhm...isn't the sump all part of the same system?

if it's decomposing...that gunk's still gonna get back into the display tank.

[Elegance Coral]

I am soooo sorry to hear this. Unfortunately, this is the normal chain of events that takes place with these corals. Judging from your earlier pic, you have a deep water coral. It had a deep dark chocolate color from its algae. In the deeper water the coral can accommodate a large population of algae within its tissues, turning it this dark brown color. Each individual single celled algae can only produce a limited amount of O2 at the greater depth, so the coral can have a large number of them. When the coral is placed in an aquarium with strong T-5 lighting the algae start producing much more O2. This over abundance of o2 begins to oxidize the cells within the coral tissues. As the coral tissue becomes weaker and weaker, infection can set in. This infection, as in most corals, starts at the edges where the polyp meets the skeleton. It will usually start at one end and work its way around the edge and engulf the coral until there is nothing left. Depending on the amount of damage to the coral tissue, some of these corals can be saved even after an infection has set in. If the infection is isolated to one end of the coral, it can be fraged in the healthy tissue, discarding the infected area. If the infected area has made its way to the intire perimeter of the coral and the only living tissue is in the center it may still survive. The infected tissue will need to be removed by water flow, and the coral diped to kill off the infecting organisms. If there is healthy tissue in the center of the coral it can survive. Temp and light play a large role in the corals recovery. Because more O2 can be dissolved in water at higher temps, we would need to keep it below 80 degrees. The PAR value of the lights will need to be low enough to not cause an over load of O2 in the coral. If a coral does survive such an event it will be a very long time before it looks anything like its former self.
It is important to remember that corals don't typically die like we do. Corals normally die cell by cell. If there is any healthy tissue it can survive if it is not over run by infection. Even if it is much smaller than the original animal.
Good luck, and I hate to hear about what you are going through.

[Tynan Rasmus]

Originally Posted by skeety

uhm...isn't the sump all part of the same system?

if it's decomposing...that gunk's still gonna get back into the display tank.

The junk will not make it through the return pump sponge, so no worries there.

[Tynan Rasmus]

Originally Posted by Elegance Coral

I am soooo sorry to hear this. Unfortunately, this is the normal chain of events that takes place with these corals. Judging from your earlier pic, you have a deep water coral. It had a deep dark chocolate color from its algae. In the deeper water the coral can accommodate a large population of algae within its tissues, turning it this dark brown color. Each individual single celled algae can only produce a limited amount of O2 at the greater depth, so the coral can have a large number of them. When the coral is placed in an aquarium with strong T-5 lighting the algae start producing much more O2. This over abundance of o2 begins to oxidize the cells within the coral tissues. As the coral tissue becomes weaker and weaker, infection can set in. This infection, as in most corals, starts at the edges where the polyp meets the skeleton. It will usually start at one end and work its way around the edge and engulf the coral until there is nothing left. Depending on the amount of damage to the coral tissue, some of these corals can be saved even after an infection has set in. If the infection is isolated to one end of the coral, it can be fraged in the healthy tissue, discarding the infected area. If the infected area has made its way to the intire perimeter of the coral and the only living tissue is in the center it may still survive. The infected tissue will need to be removed by water flow, and the coral diped to kill off the infecting organisms. If there is healthy tissue in the center of the coral it can survive. Temp and light play a large role in the corals recovery. Because more O2 can be dissolved in water at higher temps, we would need to keep it below 80 degrees. The PAR value of the lights will need to be low enough to not cause an over load of O2 in the coral. If a coral does survive such an event it will be a very long time before it looks anything like its former self.
It is important to remember that corals don't typically die like we do. Corals normally die cell by cell. If there is any healthy tissue it can survive if it is not over run by infection. Even if it is much smaller than the original animal.
Good luck, and I hate to hear about what you are going through.

wow good info there. Its only at one end of the coral, not sure if I have anything here that I could cut it in half with though.

[Elegance Coral]

Maybe you could barrow a hack saw from a neighbor. It is work to cut one in half like this but it can be done. Iodine helps allot too.

[Tynan Rasmus]

oh, I have a hack saw actually. I will try that.

[Tynan Rasmus]

oh .. and what should I dip it in? freshwater, or something else?

[Elegance Coral]

Any of the iodine based products from your LFS. They should sell dips for corals. Fallow the directions. Make sure you cut into the healthy tissue. You don't want to leave any of the infected areas. An Iodine supplement for the tank may help keep down the possibility of the infection spreading. Use caution though, iodine can cause algae blooms if the levels get to high. Good luck, and keep us posted.
How strong is that 10K in your sump? Wattage? This may be to much light for him unless he is a good distance from it. 10K lights usually have a high PAR value.