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Old 05-09-2008, 08:25 AM   #16
Elegance Coral
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I agree with Jnicho. I also restore historic homes and buildings. I don't know about California, but here in Florida, there are no older houses without some termite damage. Even without termite damage, someone needs to go under the house to inspect the condition of the rim and floor joists. There needs to be a support directly under the tank. If the tank will be parallel to the joists, there may only be one or two joists holding up the tank. Even with the older 2x8's that are really 2 inches x 8 inches, they will sag in time if not supported properly. I don't believe the floor will fail and drop the tank to the ground, but if it begins to warp under the pressure, the glass of the tank will not move with it. The glass will break.
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Old 05-09-2008, 08:35 AM   #17
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This is what happens to a house when it's not supported properly. Plaster acts like glass. It does not bend very well. As the floor slowly moves the plaster cracks. You can imagine what a glass tank would do if the floor began to move under it.
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Old 05-09-2008, 09:02 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elegance Coral View Post
This is what happens to a house when it's not supported properly. Plaster acts like glass. It does not bend very well. As the floor slowly moves the plaster cracks. You can imagine what a glass tank would do if the floor began to move under it.
Looks like someone with a croocked Mind! LOL J/K!
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Old 05-09-2008, 09:24 AM   #19
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I say put it in the converted garage...that way you know you are solid on concrete, why take the chance. If you have to have it in the bedroom, then I would be sure to get it check out. I know nothing about construction in California, but my house was built in the 50's in NY and we have 2X8 joists. I just can't imagine that anyone would use anything smaller than 2X6.

That said, trust me as someone who knows what its like to have 150 gallons of water in their house...it sucks!
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Old 05-09-2008, 09:53 AM   #20
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There is one issue that hasn't been stated completely. If this house is that old, then the hardwood floors ARE the subflooring. They will have been put down perpendicular to the joists. And my 99% guess is that they are 3/4"-1" thick, depending on how many times they have been re-sanded.

Personally, I would NOT place the tank in this room. Perpendicular placement adds strength to the floor, but as the wood ages, the strands become weaker. So, a 2X8 in the 50's may only have a strength equivalent of a 2X7 in a relatively dry location. If this is over a craw space in CA... I'd say 2X6. Plus, the distance between joist has to be considered.

The closer to an exterior wall you get the better. Forces on the wood would be shear force more so than flex force.


Without additional info... my vote would be a resounding no!
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Old 05-09-2008, 12:17 PM   #21
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Ok, so here is your laundry list of information.
please provide:
dimensions of the stand
height of the floor joists
Rough length of the joist from the sill plate to the next support beam under the house so we know how far the joist has to span
then look at the floor from the underside and the top, see if you can tell if there is a sub floor installed, you may want to take a picture of the floor from the underside
quick inspect for termite or dry rot damage.

report these back and we can give you a positive yes or no.
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Old 05-09-2008, 12:37 PM   #22
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TIP: if you have vents in the floor, pull one up, you can then see on the inside side if there is a subfloor or just hardwood. You'll be able to see the layers.
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Old 05-09-2008, 01:02 PM   #23
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IMO I would brace it just to be safe. I braced my floor that was built with 2x8 joists 14 years ago and I still braced it as the joists were running parallel to the 155 gallon tank I put up. For $20.00 I have peace of mind.
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Old 05-09-2008, 03:33 PM   #24
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Without a doubt you need to get someone under the house. I am sure the moist salty air would have some effect on the structure of the house. And without knowing where support beams are or how old the house is. This is just a disaster waiting to happen.
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