whoo hoo new ro/di unit

[Fat Tony]

one thing... you don't need that polishing filter, actually you want to get rid of it. It is a carbon filter and after a while it will release store contaminants back into the water. Not really a big deal prior to the RO and DI, but it isn't desirable after the RO..You want to run the line from the Tee coming from between the RO and DI sections (make sure that there is a valve in here so you can shut it off) straight to the reservoir input.

[icebear]

well, i just ordered the 150 gpd with their tds meter, so i'm subscribing to this thread.

i'll need to get a flush kit i guess cause i misunderstood that it no longer comes with one?

[RobbW]

What is a flush kit?

Tony, okay, I'll probably remove the polishing filter then. One less filter to go through and slow up the process. The next issue will be replacing the T connector that is currently on the input side of the DI housing. The T connector isn't a screw-in type. Well, it screws into the end of the filter housing, but the input/output tubing does not use any compression nuts to attach the tubing to the connector. You push the tubing into the connector until it locks in place. Once you push the tubing into the connector you cannot pull it back out without damaging the connector. So, what do I replace this connection with? If I want to remove the polishing filter, I will have to cut the tubing off the current connector and find something to replace it with so I can run tubing to both the water storage tank and the drinking water faucet.

[icebear]

well... i'm not exactly sure what it is lol.... but i suppose its something that is used to clean and maintain the inside of the thing....

i assumed i'd just figure it out once (if) i got it

[RobbW]

Okay, I just never saw a flush kit referenced or offered anywhere when I placed my order with PWC. After reading through the instructions that came with my unit, I'm not sure how valuable a flush kit would be anyway. The instructions state the RO membrane should last about 3 years. It also says after 3+ years, if the RO/DI unit starts going downhill, they recommend just junking it and buy a new unit from them as it is cheaper to just buy a whole new unit rather than replace worn parts separately.

I picked up spare parts at HD during lunch. I really hope I got the right parts and sizes so I can finally put the wraps on this project tonight.

[Fat Tony]

LOL... you can remove the tubing, the little plastic ring that is around the tubing once the tube is pressed into the fitting.... press it in toward the fitting and pull out on the tubing at the same time.

[Gabriel]

i still dont get what a flush thingy does and by the way this is the ro/di unit i got http://www.purewaterclub.com/catalog...roducts_id=163 i didnt think my initial post was clear.

[RobbW]

Gabriel, definitely make sure you take the time to take apart every connection and Teflon tape all the threads. Then put it all back together nice, tight, and snug. Your fingertips will be nothing but bloody pulps by the time you're done, but hopefully it will all be worth it. My fingers hurt typing this message!

[Gabriel]

Originally Posted by RobbW

Your fingertips will be nothing but bloody pulps by the time you're done, but hopefully it will all be worth it. My fingers hurt typing this message!

did you not have tools? or did you not know how to wrap the fittings?(no offense)
because i have wrapped plenty of pneumatic parts together and my fingers never hurt or bleed.

is the plastic sharp or something?

[RobbW]

No, the plastic's not sharp or anything. It's just that the connections are all small and packed in very close together. So it was darn near impossible to use any sort of tool to help loosen/tighten the bazillion plastic compression fittings. I had to do about 90% of the tightening by hand, and you have to get the fittings super tight to prevent leaking.

It was just a lot of work, and the fact that I had to constantly keep loosening, taping, and tightening all the connections several times to troubleshoot the leaks wasn't any help on my fingertips.

[OneDummHikk]

Robb, leave the elbow in that you put in, then a short piece of tubing and then a T that you can get from Home Depot, then hook it up as normal. You can also get an RO membrane housing for about 4 dollars if the one you have is stripped and you had to silicone the fittings in. I think HD sells the RO housing but I don't remember. Probably pay a little more for it at HD but it would let you know you had a solid connection.

If you have the quick release fittings then they are pretty much universal and you can find them at HD. They sell two different ones though in 1/4" size. One has a coarse thread and the other has a fine thread on it and something you should be aware of before buying fittings. Make sure you get the right threads.

[RobbW]

Thanks, Randy. I didn't realize that about the course vs. fine thread issue. I hope I got lucky and grabbed the correct thread size. We'll find out in a couple hours, I guess!

[Gabriel]

oh all right. well ill have to make a run to HD and the LFS this week too.
so ill pick up some Teflon tape and some reflector rods. and some goodies at the lfs.

oh what kind of stone drill bit do i use to drill through rock? is there a special name lol or do i just ask for a stones cutting drill bit .

[mscottring]

Originally Posted by biowheel

About 8 days (including weekends ) I ordered mine 3/19 . It's due in 3/27 tomorrow

I'm about to take a chance on them, and their e-bay rating is back up to 99.5% anyway (so maybe they fixed the production problem). Anyway, I have a pretty expensive under sink filter system (non-ro/di) and it leaked when I got it. You just never know.

[RobbW]

Well, I think I may have finally clogged all the leaks and gotten everything to work properly. My unit is currently producing RO drinking water and storing it in the water storage tank. I am taking the big risk of calling it quits and going to bed while the RO/DI unit is still producing. I really hope that the auto shut-off valve works as advertised! Of course, when I wake up in the morning, if all goes well, I'll still have to open up the RO faucet at my sink and let the water storage tank drain all of its watery goodness. The instruction manual says to fill the storage tank once and let it drain in order to clean out any impurities.

I hope by tomorrow evening I'll be able to start making my first batch of WC water. My tank is definitely in need of a water change by now! I'm keeping my fingers crossed.