where to drill...

saltwater_wannabe · 11-20-2005, 02:49 PM

I am going to be picking up a 75g Oceanic tank some time this week from a local guy. As far as I know (have yet to confirm), only the bottom of the tank is tempered glass. It's 5 years old and was the top of the line at the time; it even has a glass center brace at the top. I want to convert this thing to a RR w/sump or refugium in the next few months. Where would be the best place to put the hole(s) in the back? Can anyone direct me to a thread or website that I can use to guide me in the best direction?

Like anyone else, I'm trying to do it right the first time. Any help is more than appreciated.

tdwyatt · 11-20-2005, 03:05 PM

On a 75 with a center brace, I'd be thinking about leaving the corners open and using the space under the brace for the plumbing holes. In doing this you leave the corners available for unobstructed lighting (even the center brace as glass will have an effect on the light transmitted through it). Drill at least 2 diameters of the hole away from the edge, install a pair of holes horizontally parallell, and install a bulkhead for each that will allow you to take one large diameter hole to the surface for overflow, and the other to supply return from the sump. If the tank is intended for stony coral reef top biotope emulation, then make sure to include holes in the sides for a CLS. Distance from the top or bottom is only a REAL factor in terms of making the pane of glass potentially weaker, as you can take PVC to the top or bottom inside the tank from the bulkhead to whatever point you may desire. The overflow does not need to be from the top to bottom if the bottom of it is waterproof, as this will prevent the tank from draining any lower than the bottom of the strainer cuts in the top of the overflow should the tank experience a power failure (so you can build an oveflow strainer like a stovepipe cap). Make sure that the returns have at least one section that goes as close to the surface as possible, as these same power losses will turn the return pipes into siphons. Placing a small pinhole at the highest point of the returns (but still underwater) will allow the tank to drain through the returns until the pinhole breaks the surface of the water, at which time it will cause a loss of siphon as the air above the surface enters the return pipe. This will prevent an otherwise inevitable flood of the room as the siphon would otherwise drain the tank down to the first opening in the pipe.

Lemmeno if you want more, hth

VWD · 11-20-2005, 07:04 PM

I don't think anyone wants a flood. But everyone hads to have one sometime to be a Baptized reefer

tdwyatt · 11-20-2005, 11:02 PM

Heh!

I'd LIKE to say I've never had a sump flood, but I'd also like to say I've never let the RO run over, that the water has never overflowed the tank because a snail got into the overflow pipes, that I've never lost a fish due to something stupid I did, that I've never had a coral RTN for no apparent reason, that I've never had a cyano outbreak, or a macroalgae go through holocarpy, or said something totally incorrect on the internet, or... the list goes on.

One of the great things about sites like this is that you do have the opportunity to learn through other people's mistakes. Whether or not you decide to take advantage of that opportunity is something else...

VWD · 11-20-2005, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdwyatt

Heh!

I'd LIKE to say I've never had a sump flood, but I'd also like to say I've never let the RO run over, that the water has never overflowed the tank because a snail got into the overflow pipes, that I've never lost a fish due to something stupid I did, that I've never had a coral RTN for no apparent reason, that I've never had a cyano outbreak, or a macroalgae go through holocarpy, or said something totally incorrect on the internet, or... the list goes on.

One of the great things about sites like this is that you do have the opportunity to learn through other people's mistakes. Whether or not you decide to take advantage of that opportunity is something else...

Thats good, The Ro overflow is very common here . LOL I tend to forget about it when making up water.

wharyat · 11-20-2005, 11:23 PM

I've only overflowed my RO container 4 times.

tdwyatt · 11-20-2005, 11:48 PM

Vince, you need the littloe $10 water alarm devie I found in Home Despot for placement next to water heaters to detect pop off valve activation. It is a small rectanbular pox with two contacts on the bottom that will set of a VERY piercing alarm when the floor gets wet, it has limited my cleanups to one towel affairs instead of wet/dry vacuum ordeals...

Strange thing is, I have a sprinkler timer for the supply water, somehow I just never get around to setting it up.

saltwater_wannabe · 11-21-2005, 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdwyatt

On a 75 with a center brace, I'd be thinking about leaving the corners open and using the space under the brace for the plumbing holes. In doing this you leave the corners available for unobstructed lighting (even the center brace as glass will have an effect on the light transmitted through it). Drill at least 2 diameters of the hole away from the edge, install a pair of holes horizontally parallell, and install a bulkhead for each that will allow you to take one large diameter hole to the surface for overflow, and the other to supply return from the sump. If the tank is intended for stony coral reef top biotope emulation, then make sure to include holes in the sides for a CLS. Distance from the top or bottom is only a REAL factor in terms of making the pane of glass potentially weaker, as you can take PVC to the top or bottom inside the tank from the bulkhead to whatever point you may desire. The overflow does not need to be from the top to bottom if the bottom of it is waterproof, as this will prevent the tank from draining any lower than the bottom of the strainer cuts in the top of the overflow should the tank experience a power failure (so you can build an oveflow strainer like a stovepipe cap). Make sure that the returns have at least one section that goes as close to the surface as possible, as these same power losses will turn the return pipes into siphons. Placing a small pinhole at the highest point of the returns (but still underwater) will allow the tank to drain through the returns until the pinhole breaks the surface of the water, at which time it will cause a loss of siphon as the air above the surface enters the return pipe. This will prevent an otherwise inevitable flood of the room as the siphon would otherwise drain the tank down to the first opening in the pipe.

Lemmeno if you want more, hth

Geez, that's alot of info.

Thanks! Now it's time to find some good pluming pics.

tdwyatt · 11-21-2005, 04:35 PM

Heh, you're welcome.

Geoff is MR DIY, I am sure he will pipe in on the topic.

Geoff · 11-22-2005, 02:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdwyatt

Heh, you're welcome.

Geoff is MR DIY, I am sure he will pipe in on the topic.

heh, PIPE in on the topic. no pun intended Tom?

how crazy do you want to get.

i will see if i can find some examples of some good ideas i have found.

G~

tdwyatt · 11-22-2005, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geoff

heh, PIPE in on the topic. no pun intended Tom?

I was going to contribute something, but I couldn't fathom the topic...

...I guess I was plumb out of ideas...

had enough PUNishment?

Geoff · 11-22-2005, 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdwyatt

I was going to contribute something, but I couldn't fathom the topic...

...I guess I was plumb out of ideas...

had enough PUNishment?

Dude, you are in a League of your own.

G~

saltwater_wannabe · 11-22-2005, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdwyatt

I was going to contribute something, but I couldn't fathom the topic...

...I guess I was plumb out of ideas...

had enough PUNishment?

Someone's feeling punchy this morning?

Come on guys, there's only one more day till we're all off for the weekend (I hope).

Geoff · 11-22-2005, 09:14 AM

here are some ideas for an overflow. i really like the PVC overflow idea! simple yet effective.

do you have an idea on what kind of pump you would like to use for a CLS?

G~

Geoff · 11-22-2005, 09:18 AM

how soon did you want to get going on this? i have a diamond hole saw for 1" bulkheads. if you can wait till i get back in the states we can work out something in person and drill it up. i am going to be drilling my 125g.

i will be coming back just before Christmas.

G~