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Old 05-21-2007, 04:32 PM   #1
fyrfytr1717
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Water temperature


Now that my tank has been set up for a week or so with everything running on the AC Jr, I think my tank's temperature has equalized. It is usually right around 82 in the morning before the lights come on and reaches 85-86 at night by the time the lights shut off. I have the canopy fans programmed to run while the T5's are on and to remain on until the water temp drops to 84. Is this still too hot? Does anyone run their tank in the low to mid 80's?
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Old 05-21-2007, 04:41 PM   #2
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The max I like mine is 82, prefer 78. Run some clipon fans over the water surface and it should drop the temp. Works well.
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Old 05-21-2007, 04:45 PM   #3
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I run mine 79-83. 85 is too high IMO. My sps tank hit 87 last week when my chiller died.
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Old 05-21-2007, 05:19 PM   #4
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mine has hit 87. I don't like it that high though. Normally around 80 is what works for me.
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Old 05-21-2007, 05:43 PM   #5
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May I suggest that you set up the ac Jr to turn the fans on at a lower temp. Possibly as low as 80.5 with as hot as your tank is getting. I would also set a failsafe with the programming to begin turning the lights off as maybe 83, maybe the first set then the second set off at 84.5. You can set them to come back on again at a lower temp. Set up the jr so it leaves at least 30 seconds on/off time so that the fans/lights don't get caught up in the infinite on/off sequence when the temp is right on the cut off line (I forget what this is called, but it's in the instruction book).

Basically try to keep your reef more constant. A 1-3 degree rise/fall a day is OK, but 5 is way too much IMO. I too would shoot for the 78-79 mark.


Good Luck!
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Old 05-21-2007, 05:49 PM   #6
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I actually disagree with that to some extent Hop. I will offer why just for conversation purposes.

Temp swings of 6 or more degrees a day are very common in the wild reefs. I use controllers to intentionally swing my reefs 4 or so degrees a day, every day. I think it makes everything more resilient for when things DO go wrong, as well as makes them ship better when i frag and ship them.

Just my opinion of course. But I can say that my 100% SPS reef hit 87 degrees recently with no ill effects.......I believe it would have been a bigger deal if i kept it at exactly 81 degrees all the time.
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Old 05-21-2007, 05:57 PM   #7
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Cool Fly guy! If it works, and helps with shipping frags thats awesome!

I derived my decision a few years ago based on the following article from Dr. Randy Holmes-Farley:
Temperature
Temperature impacts reef aquarium inhabitants in a variety of ways. First and foremost, the animals' metabolic rates rise as temperature rises. They may consequently use more oxygen, carbon dioxide, nutrients, calcium and alkalinity at higher temperatures. This higher metabolic rate can also increase both their growth rate and waste production at higher temperatures.
Another important impact of temperature is on the chemical aspects of the aquarium. The solubility of dissolved gases such as oxygen and carbon dioxide, for example, changes with temperature. Oxygen, in particular, can be a concern because it is less soluble at higher temperature.
So what does this imply for aquarists?
In most instances, trying to match the natural environment in a reef aquarium is a worthy goal. Temperature may, however, be a parameter that requires accounting for the practical considerations of a small closed system. Looking to the ocean as a guide for setting temperatures in reef aquaria may present complications, because corals grow in such a wide range of temperatures. Nevertheless, Ron Shimek has shown in a previous article that the greatest variety of corals are found in water whose average temperature is about 83-86 F.
Reef aquaria do, however, have limitations that may make their optimal temperature somewhat lower. During normal functioning of a reef aquarium, the oxygen level and the metabolic rate of the aquarium inhabitants are not often important issues. During a crisis such as a power failure, however, the dissolved oxygen can be rapidly used up. Lower temperatures not only allow a higher oxygen level before an emergency, but will also slow the consumption of that oxygen by slowing the metabolism of the aquarium's inhabitants. The production of ammonia as organisms begin to die may also be slower at lower temperatures. For reasons such as this, one may choose to strike a practical balance between temperatures that are too high (even if corals normally thrive in the ocean at those temperatures), and those that are too low. Although average reef temperatures in maximal diversity areas (i.e. coral triangle centered Indonesia,) these areas are also often subject to significant mixing. In fact, the cooler reefs, ( i..e. open Pacific reefs) are often more stable at lower temperatures due to oceanic exchange but are less tolerant to bleaching and other temperature related perturbations.
All things considered, those natural guidelines leave a fairly wide range of acceptable temperatures. I keep my aquarium at about 80-81 F year-round. I am actually more inclined to keep the aquarium cooler in the summer, when a power failure would most likely warm the aquarium, and higher in winter, when a power failure would most likely cool it.
All things considered, I recommend temperatures in the range of 76-83 F unless there is a very clear reason to keep it outside that range.

Since reading that article, I just employed his recomendations and honestly never looked any further at temp
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Old 05-21-2007, 06:50 PM   #8
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Thanks for all the great information so far. I have heard both sides of these arguments before (stable vs. swinging temp & matching natural environment vs. keeping things cooler) and I guess as with most reefing questions there a variety of ideas and beliefs.

It seems odd to me that while the most coral diversity is found between 83-86 degrees most people keep their tanks at 79-82 degrees. I think I'll try to bring my overall temp down a degree or two. Currently, my actinics run for 12 hours and my lights run for 10 hours. One canopy fan turns on and off with the actinics and one with the lights. If the temp is >84 one fan stays on even after the lights shut off, >85 both fans stay on, >87 actinics shut off, >88 lights shut off. Maybe I'll bump it down to 83, 84, 85, 86 for the same controls. Should I shorten the time my lights are on, or is 10 hours with 1 hour of actinics before and after about normal? I think I may also try a clip-on fan over my sump. I'm curious to see how this goes throughout the year as the inside of my house is usually 78 in the summer and 68 in the winter...
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Old 05-21-2007, 07:35 PM   #9
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mine works at 76-78 most of the time.. sometimes it can reach 80 during really hot days, but I have my air cond. running in the living room so tank temperature doesn't go up too far.
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Old 05-21-2007, 08:18 PM   #10
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My 125gal corner acryllic ran at 82-84 degrees during set-up in December!!

This was to hot for most fish and it increases parasite growth.

The problem I had was having all pump inside sump due to space limits.

Had to buy chiller to correct problem, fans on sump did could not cool enough.

Tank runs at 79-81 degrees no problems now.

HTH

Doug
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Old 05-21-2007, 08:49 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by depitch View Post
My 125gal corner acryllic ran at 82-84 degrees during set-up in December!!

This was to hot for most fish and it increases parasite growth.

The problem I had was having all pump inside sump due to space limits.

Had to buy chiller to correct problem, fans on sump did could not cool enough.

Tank runs at 79-81 degrees no problems now.

HTH

Doug
I'm really trying to avoid having to use a chiller. My tank is glass which should allow for more heat loss than an acrylic tank. Maybe if I take my A/C down a notch and add a fan to the sump I can at least get down to around 80-84? My return pump is external. I really like my Velocity T3 return pump so far but I am willing to bet it is responsible for much of my heat.
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Old 05-21-2007, 08:59 PM   #12
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Yeah, something is jacking it up I'm running a 125 inwall with 3 250 mh, insump skimmer and a submerged sedra 7000 pump, 2 Korilla 4s, 2 maxijets and my heater is still bumping it up to 78.9 a couple times a day. House temp is 76 and up, with no ac yet (I live in the deserty area of Colorado). No chiller and only one fan to vent the headspace above the tank...
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Old 05-21-2007, 09:00 PM   #13
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i just let my ACII do the seasonal variations. low around 75 in the winter and a high of 81 in the summer. i like it because it keeps my electric bill lower.

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Old 05-21-2007, 09:06 PM   #14
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That's to high and to much of a swing also!
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Old 05-21-2007, 09:24 PM   #15
fyrfytr1717
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hop View Post
Yeah, something is jacking it up I'm running a 125 inwall with 3 250 mh, insump skimmer and a submerged sedra 7000 pump, 2 Korilla 4s, 2 maxijets and my heater is still bumping it up to 78.9 a couple times a day. House temp is 76 and up, with no ac yet (I live in the deserty area of Colorado). No chiller and only one fan to vent the headspace above the tank...
Hmmmm... That is pretty similar to my set up except for the lights. I have 6 34W T5's, in-sump skimmer with a Sedra 5000, 2 Koralia 4's, 2 MaxiJet 1200's. The Koralia's are on 2/3 of the day and the MJ's are on 1/2 the day. Only the Sedra and my T3 return pump run continuously. I also have 2 51cfm fans in my backless canopy and my house is at about 78 degrees... Almost identical to your set up except my lights should be cooler than yours. Could the T3 be responsible for that much heat? Maybe because I have it gated back to keep from outrunning my 600gph overflow? I don't really know what else it could be. My heater hasn't come on since my tank got up to temperature after filling it.
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