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Old 01-22-2006, 06:43 PM   #1
adams8229
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Water quality


Need some advice on water quality. I have a 55g with about 80-90lbs of live rock. I skim with a Seaclone150 and have an Eheim classic filter. 4X65w PC lights and minuim inhabitants. they are 5 damsels,1 scooter blenny,i cleaner wrasse and 2 peppermint shrimp. I hope to get to the point of my forst coral in a few weeks. The tank has been set up since July 05. I have 2 powerheads in the tank moving water. My levels are:

ALK4 meg/l or 11.2 DKH
CA 450ppm
Nitrate 10ppm
PH 8.2-8.4
ammonia 0-0.25 ppm
Nitrite .05 ppm

Any observations or comments are welcome, am I close to being ready for softies? I do periodic 10 gallon water changes, these readings are after a change

Thanks in advance for your help
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Old 01-22-2006, 06:46 PM   #2
Casey
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You should have zero ammonia and Nitrite.
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Old 01-22-2006, 06:50 PM   #3
JennM
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Are you sure you have ammonia and nitrite? What brand of test kit are you using? If it's the one with the little cartoon fish on it and the glass test tubes, I'd bet the farm that you're getting false readings.

Is your Eheim filter a canister? If so is it a wet/dry canister or just a standard canister? The latter isn't a good choice for saltwater, particularly if it's allowed to 'go biological' and you can end up with a nitrate issue, and a low dissolved oxygen issue.

The sea clone is not a great skimmer but the larger model that you have may suffice. If you're considering upgrading, an Aqua C or CPR BakPak may be better options there. Keep an eye on your seaclone for leaks - often the connections that hold the tube on the maxijet leak, to the dismay of hobbyists.

The scooter dragonet (it's not a blenny - pet peeve of mine in the industry) is a hard-to-keep fish, make sure it doesn't get thin as these only eat live copepods and amphipods in your tank and can easily starve to death. Cleaner wrasse have a dismal survival rate too - how long have you had those two fish?

Your fish load is already heavy - you may wish to remove the damsels as they WILL become aggressive in time, and harrass more peaceful fishes.

Assuming you're getting false readings on ammonia and nitrite, you're good to go for corals at any time.

HTH

Jenn
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Old 01-22-2006, 07:04 PM   #4
adams8229
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Jenn I am using a Red Sea Marine Lab. I have not had the dragonet or warasse a week yet. Should i remove the canister filter all together and reaplce with a HOB or something? Thanks!
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Old 01-22-2006, 07:21 PM   #5
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Red Sea tests are usually pretty accurate - at this stage of the game you shouldn't have any ammonia or nitrite unless you're drastically overfeeding or if something is dead and decaying in the tank... I'd check that against another brand of test to be sure.

Hate to tell you - the wrasse probably won't last more than a week That's one creature better left in the wild.

The dragonet - I'd return that to the LFS - they shouldn't have sold you that (or either fish really... and I'm a LFS owner!). Both are inappropriate for your tank... dragonets stand the best chance with a 75g tank or larger, well-established without competition for the live foods it needs, with 100 lbs or more live rock. I've seen too many emaciated specimens to count -- too often people buy them someplace, then they learn that they are starving and many have brought them to me to "save"... sad

The canister is good for polishing the water - pack it with carbon and floss and run it for a few days after a water change to pick up particulate or run phosphate sponge in it if you have phosphate issues, but don't put any biological media in it. If you take it off, empty and clean it (nothing stinks like stagnant canister water!!!).

You can do a HOB, or even just some more powerheads or something to improve the agitation at the surface. You ideally want to turn your water over 8-10 times per hour to get enough gas exchange - a canister doesn't allow any gas exchange within it as it's a closed loop.

Powerheads a good skimmer and occasional polishing with a canister should be just fine

Jenn
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