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11-14-2005, 12:39 PM
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#1
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Shark
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Toledo OH
Posts: 4,888
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Water Flow
The more I read it seems as though I could use moreflow. I currently have the quiet one 5000. Max flow is 1330 gph. Assuming I have about 5' head pressure to the top of the tank the flow is ~950 gph.
I always thought the tank appered not to have a lot of water movement. Do I need more. I have two returns currently. Would a little larger pump be beneficial?? Like closer to a 2,000 GPH flow rate?
I could use 4 returns and get a little mopre turbulance with the aiming of the returns.
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11-14-2005, 12:44 PM
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#2
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The Ninja MOD
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Planet P.....Why Me?
Posts: 11,643
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How big is the tank and whats in it? Im assuming the pump you have is the sump return? You could get a bigger pump, make sure that the overflow will handle it and that the existing intake plumbing is easily enlarged (never restrict the intake) or The same as the larger pumps needs. Depending on how you are currently set up you could do something with an internal CLS type of spray bar or even an over head CLS to add flow where you want it.
Robert
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11-14-2005, 12:52 PM
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#3
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Shark
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Toledo OH
Posts: 4,888
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Sorry...I have a 110 gallon tank. No sps but a little of everything else. Starting to add some SPS soon. Not a lot but a start. The pump is external that draws fron the sump. I currently have a single 1 1/4 drain. The overfloww is 8" wide by like 6" deep.
I prefer not to put anything additional into the tank. I like the clean look. Had I know about the CLS before I would have set one up. But didn't until about two weeks ago.
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11-14-2005, 12:53 PM
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#4
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BIG SMELLY MOD
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Livingston Parish, Denham Springs, Louisiana
Posts: 16,514
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You can do an Over the back CLS.
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Vince aka VINNIE
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11-14-2005, 12:58 PM
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#5
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Shark
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Toledo OH
Posts: 4,888
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What do I need to do the over the back CLS? A link would be great.
Or is it just a tube with some sort of screen, plumbing, pump and returns? Could I draw water from the overflow, or would it have to be from the main part of the tank? Again I prefer as clean as possible.
My tank has provisions for 4 returns. I currently only use two. Plus the hood has a 2" gap in back so I could run plumbing there.
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11-14-2005, 01:04 PM
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#6
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BIG SMELLY MOD
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Livingston Parish, Denham Springs, Louisiana
Posts: 16,514
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Go to this and then You will find more links. Follow the links.
HERE
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Vince aka VINNIE
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11-14-2005, 01:07 PM
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#7
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The Ninja MOD
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Planet P.....Why Me?
Posts: 11,643
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Your tank has provisions for 4 returns, are they drilled? Drilling is the way to keep it clean looking and can actually be done without completely draining the tank. Geoff has done it.
Robert
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11-14-2005, 01:16 PM
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#8
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Shark
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Toledo OH
Posts: 4,888
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Basically I have an over flow with 1 1 1/4 drain drilled and 2 1/2 returns in it. The top of the tank has 4 holes drilled for bulkheads and return jets. Only two of these are used. I could easily drain the overflow and plumb a feed for the CLS and two more returns for the jets on the CLS.
Or if it had to come out of the main tank simply go over the back under the hood down to the pump and back up to the two holes already drilled for the jets. Just shoot the jets at each other and create some good turbulance.
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11-14-2005, 01:20 PM
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#9
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The Ninja MOD
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Planet P.....Why Me?
Posts: 11,643
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I think I see waht you saying. You could just rig an intake for the CLS pump that pulls from in the tank and goes up over the back then use the two un-used wholes. Make the intake oversized diameter wise and also at the top make a "T" with a ball valve sp you have a way to prime it to start it. The valve will give you a way to close the prime port air tight.
Robert
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11-14-2005, 01:23 PM
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#10
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The Ninja MOD
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Planet P.....Why Me?
Posts: 11,643
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I would make the intake substantialy oversized since the pump has to pull up and over the back. If you have a larger diameter pipe that is full of water then maybe the weight and mass odf that water will create a stronger siphon effect so the pump doesnt work so hard to draw water. Let the water do the work. Say your pump[ is plumbed for 1 inch. Id make the intake pipe at least 2". Making a pump work to feed itself is bad.
Robert
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11-14-2005, 01:29 PM
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#11
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Shark
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Toledo OH
Posts: 4,888
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As for the ball valve and t does that go on the return from the pump to the tank or on the feed line to the pump.
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11-14-2005, 01:31 PM
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#12
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Shark
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Toledo OH
Posts: 4,888
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I see, I think the T is on the feed to the pump pointing up with a ball valve there used to fill the main tube to prime the pump. Plus closed it air tight when running. Correct
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11-14-2005, 01:33 PM
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#13
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The Ninja MOD
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Planet P.....Why Me?
Posts: 11,643
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You got it! Intake pipe comes from in the tank, elbow then "T" with one end up and ball valve on top! Just like you said! The valve is the only way to realy get a good seal, other wise you break siphon or get bubbles.
Robert
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11-14-2005, 02:01 PM
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#14
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Shark
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Toledo OH
Posts: 4,888
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OK So it sounds like the CLS is going to be added. How much flow from this should I add. ~1000 1500gph?
Also is the 10x/hr turnover plenty for the overfloww & wet/dry.
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11-14-2005, 02:32 PM
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#15
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The Ninja MOD
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Planet P.....Why Me?
Posts: 11,643
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Id go as big as you can as far as gph since you have and will be getting SPS. 2000pgh would be a good starting point!!!!
Robert
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