Ok, here it goes. I can not remember the lengths of all of the PVC, but most will be obvious when building. Here is a pic of it before final assembly to help out the explanation.
1 4" diameter acrylic tubeX24" long
1 ViaAqua 1300 Pump
1 10' length of 3/4 PVC tubing
1 3/4" slip Union
3 3/4" slip 90 elbows
1 1/2" mpt to 3/4" slip adaptor
2 3/4" mpt to 3/4" slip adaptor
1 4" PVC slip coupler
1 4" to 2" adaptor
1 2" rubber temporary slip cap (not shown, it is a cap that is held on by a pipe clamp) This is how you replenish your Kalk.
2 3/4"slip to 3/4" FPT adaptor
1 1/2" FPT to 3/4" slip elbow
1 1/2" FPT coupler
1 4" PVC cap (bottom)
1 4" PVC toilet flange spacer.
1 2" PVC you only need about 4-5 inches, hopefully you can find a scrap.
For the inputs and outputs I used 1/4 poly tubing. Finding connectors for these is difficult in plastic. I had to order these over the internet. They are usually listed with the RO/DI stuff. This is really where you are on your own. I needed all of my controls up near the back of the tank because this is the only place I will have access. I used a combination of Jaco fittings and a cool slip in connector ( I can not remember the name). The slip in ones are very handy, I would get those if you can.
I can not give you an exact cut list because most of it was done on the fly. But I can tell you that I cut the acylic tube at 8" for the bottom part.
I connected the union just before the pump inlet. This allows me to replace the pump if I need to. The pump is in its correct orientation to the reactor. The pump inlet is the top connector on the body of the coupler. The bottom connector is the outlet. The outlet stops about a 1/4" from the bottom of the reactor to stir up the kalk.
The water inlet is the connector at the very bottom of the reactor. The output into the tank is at the top.
When I glued the couplers to the body of the reactor i shaped them so that they would fit snug against it. I also drilled the holes into the reactor just big enough to let a 3/4" piece of PVC to fit through. This was all glued to make a seal.
The bottom cap is glued to the flange spacer. This is a tricky glue. I beveled the inside of the spacer in order to give better contact with the cap. Luckily the glue is very strong and it is just there to keep it from falling over.
The best place I have found to get the acrylic is Aquatic Ecosystems. I think it was @$10 a foot.
I used regular PVC cement for everything except the acrylic connections. Used Tap Cement for this. It is the freeflowing stuff. I used one of those needle bottles. This works great because you see it fill in all of the gaps as you squirt it in.
I think this is all of it. One of these days I need to put all of my DIY on a website.
If I have totally confused you let me know. I am running on low sleep with our 1 month olds feeding schedule. I think I made sense, but then again me, myself, and I have tea parties all of the time
G~
