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Old 02-06-2006, 08:55 PM   #31
gwaco
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titanfan , i think that those with the higher rate are using it more as a clarifier than for parasite control . you have to decide what purpose you want it for . parasite control requires a very long dwell time ,bacteria algae control shorter dwell time , and the wattage makes a differance on how much dwell time you need . an example would be - if you are using say an 18 watt u.v you need somewhere around 100 g.p.h. for parasites and around 300 g.p.h. for algae and bacteria . also as you go up higher in wattages the g.p.h. needs to go up also .
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Old 02-06-2006, 09:02 PM   #32
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I think a UV may be one of the things that may be some benifit, Don't know, I can say I have one . 25 watt still never been hooked up to any of my tanks, I got it as part of a deal and it is a good brand. Just really don't think it will do what they claim they do. OT is the best way of not getting ich.
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Old 02-06-2006, 09:19 PM   #33
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I can't figure out what OT means.
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Old 02-06-2006, 09:22 PM   #34
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me thinks he meant qt ?
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Old 02-06-2006, 09:27 PM   #35
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QT is right, I do that all the time, I am in the corner with that dumb hat on again.
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Old 02-06-2006, 09:28 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff
AdamG- how long has the tank been setup? if it is under 3 months than it is prolly diatom and it will go away pretty quickly. if it is over 3 months than it is prolly cyano and you have a phosphate problem. cyano comes in many colours so going by colour can not be a good indicator.

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it is about two years old... so probally cyano. I have done changes. sucked it up. Bought more snails. Snails seemed to help a little, but do you recommend anything else?
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Old 02-06-2006, 09:37 PM   #37
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QT is right, I do that all the time, I am in the corner with that dumb hat on again.
I wasn't trying to call you on it...I just honestly couldn't figure it out.

And I am willing to put my poor spelling up against anyone!
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Old 02-06-2006, 09:40 PM   #38
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I know Chris, I do it all the time, Just If I was in charge a spelling everything would be the way I spell it. LOL
Quote:
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I wasn't trying to call you on it...I just honestly couldn't figure it out.

And I am willing to put my poor spelling up against anyone!
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Old 02-06-2006, 09:41 PM   #39
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Old 02-06-2006, 09:43 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by AdamG
it is about two years old... so probally cyano. I have done changes. sucked it up. Bought more snails. Snails seemed to help a little, but do you recommend anything else?
how deep is your sand bed? how often have you been siphoning out the detritus that accumulates on it? are there areas under the LR that you can reach to siphon? your SB may be full and is starting to leach phosphates back into the water. the LR has wicked up all it can also from the SB. when this occurs is when people start talking about "cooking" thier LR. not a fun task, but may be necessary. either way it sounds like a good cleaning may be in order.

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Old 02-06-2006, 09:45 PM   #41
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worth it ? yep . although i run mine in what many consider the wrong way . mine is plumbed off one of the tank over flows . just didn't want to add another pump.
there is nothing really bad with this method of using it. i assume your skimmer is in the sump where this drain goes. most of the water from this overflow will go through the skimmer before being returned to the tank. sounds like a good way to run the UV sterilizer.

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Old 02-06-2006, 09:45 PM   #42
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worth it ? yep . although i run mine in what many consider the wrong way . mine is plumbed off one of the tank over flows . just didn't want to add another pump.
i have mine after the pump on the return hose its a big 36 watt on my 55g and a little giant pump i think 600 gph it works good
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Old 02-06-2006, 09:46 PM   #43
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I have become a VERY strong believer in UV's but I think that you need a strong expensive one in order to have it work well. I have a 150W HO UV on my 135, it is a 6' UV but since I have installed it (about 2.5 years ago) I have had a kid and neglected my tank far more then I want to admit. But I have not had any sick or dead fish, nor any algae problems even with sparse water changes and infrequent skimmer operation. I firmly believe that a good UV is a big insurance item and I probably would not have a tank without one.

P.S. I also infrequently clean my glass if that means anything(once a month)

Jon

P.S.S. I have been keeping tanks for about 7 years, not very long but long enough to be dangerous.
JON!!!! long time no hear!! glad to see ya around again.

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Old 02-06-2006, 10:33 PM   #44
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how deep is your sand bed? how often have you been siphoning out the detritus that accumulates on it? are there areas under the LR that you can reach to siphon?
G~
sand bed is about 3-4 inches. siphon every two weeks or when I see a lot of brown stuff. As for under the rock.... I guess i can get to some of it, just gonna be difficult. here is what it looks like:






should I just suck up a bunch of the sand and buy more to add in? Also what can I put in the tank that will eat the phosphates?
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Old 02-06-2006, 11:07 PM   #45
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AdamG-what kind of skimmer do you have? during water changes if you siphon out the cyano and any detritus you find, you will be able to slowly get a handle on it.

unfortunately there is nothing really that "eats" phosphates in the way you are saying. there is Phosban and stuff like that, but honestly the cyano will do a better job of binding it up than the phosban. so just make sure you keep siphoning it all up during water changes. it may take several months of this, but you will get the upper hand.

how wet do you run your skimmer?

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algae control , algae growth , bacterial bloom , bio balls , brown algae , diatom algae , flow rate , nitrite levels , protein skimmer , venturi skimmer



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