Hey Demogar,
There are several spp. in this Genus, some are plate-like, some are cup-like, some are columnar some have scrolls and whorls. I have experience with the T. peltata only, but there are also scroll corals (T. reniformis, it is very nice, usually in shallow to moderate depth water), T. frondens (cup coral from depths usually as large plates), T. mesenteria (the pagoda cup corals) and a few others that don't get seen too much in the aquarium trade. If you want these corals to grow and thrive, you really need to spend some time after acclimation of the coral to observe the coral's reaction to lighting and circulation. Turbinaria spp. are quite variable as to their requirements, and you should pay special attention to the colony's shape to suggest circulation and lighting. Turbinaria will tolerate moderate lighting (some suggest that they prefer moderate lighting), but in my personal experience, the need moderate to strong lighting, preferably MH lighting, although I would not put them directly under the bulbs, esp at 400 watts. These are hardy corals, but once the coenosarc is damaged, the coloration tends to drop out to brown, and any damage to the coenosarc of specimens kept under less than optimal conditions will usually result in the gradual demise of the coral, starting with a small ulcer that never heals and gradually spreading over the entire surface of the coral. Cup shaped specimens are particularly susceptible to black band and
white band disease if they are not kept free of detritus. Highly convoluted and very thin plate forms are most susceptible to this type of damage. T. peltata is pretty neat, but must be kept in a medium to
high flow area, and it would be best to try and find out what the specific location parameters were where the specimen was/(is to be) collected, as changes in location, current, even sun orientation will change and convolute the growth form of the coral (it will even change the morphology of the corallites!). Almost always will only expand it's polyps at night, so feeding must occur after lights out, or within 30 min of lights out if you go through the training process and target feed these corals 30-45 min prior to the end of the photoperiod. Turbinaria peltata has larger polyps than other members of the genus, and may extend them during the day AND night. They appear only (generally) on the side of the plates or surfaces facing the light. The form variant that you end up with will depend on where it was collected, at what depth, and how much light it was receiving. T. peltata may form horizontal flat plates, cupped plates (sometimes called cup corals, needs occasional flushing to remove detritus), upright branching, or the classic columnar, Turban form for which it is named. With adequate light and circulation, the coral is long lived and durable in captivity, but requires some experimentation in placement based on the form you recieve/collect and it's circulation and lighting requirements. When you touch the coenosarc of T. peltata, it will generally shed copious quantities of mucus (this is prolly a mucus netting process, not defense), that doesn't require removal unless you have low circulation to start with.
Can't think of much else to tell you, these corals are great indicators of your water quality, they will start to show degradation of your water parameters by not expanding polyps before anything else in the tank does. When the water quality is good, these corals will expand their polyps up to a full inch from the coenosteum. There are a few exceptions to the statements above, specimens collected in shallow fore reef areas will require intense lighting to maintain their morphology, the key to keeping what you get is knowing where it was collected and the specific conditions it has grown under.
Hope this helps,
[ 05-08-2001: Message edited by: tdwyatt ]
