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05-14-2007, 07:03 PM
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#16
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Big Fishy
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Lakeland, FL
Posts: 947
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what about sell all the pumps and get some tunze's on a controller? just a couple.
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05-14-2007, 07:41 PM
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#17
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Tang Lover
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 7,283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leveldrummer
take the 2 mag 7's, and build 2 over the top, closed loops, put the mags on a 30 minute timer, your tank will rock!!
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Just what I was thinking of doing!!!
Can the Mag's handle that on/off surging?
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what about sell all the pumps and get some tunze's on a controller? just a couple.
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If I could get the $700-800 needed for the tunze's by selling those pumps, I'd do it in a heartbeat....but no way am I getting that much for them! hahaha
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05-14-2007, 08:04 PM
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#18
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senior member
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Walnut Grove, SC, USA
Posts: 13,594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leveldrummer
take the 2 mag 7's, and build 2 over the top, closed loops, put the mags on a 30 minute timer, your tank will rock!! if not, send them here, id love to try it. like this...

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How do you get the Mag /Supreme pump to do suction with an impeller pump?? I can see it working with8 the impeller immersed in the wter (which would still leave most of the heat generation outside the water, but how will this affect the longivity of this pump (which is water-cooled at the motor/impeller interface)?
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Tom <"))))>(
(TDWyatt)
Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -Plato
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05-14-2007, 08:28 PM
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#19
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moddin aint easy
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: newnan, ga
Posts: 5,697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdwyatt
How do you get the Mag /Supreme pump to do suction with an impeller pump?? I can see it working with8 the impeller immersed in the wter (which would still leave most of the heat generation outside the water, but how will this affect the longivity of this pump (which is water-cooled at the motor/impeller interface)?
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hey hey hey, not my design... just something i saw on a club forum, i assume the top part of the T in the picture, is for priming the set up, i also assume, that once primed, it would hold its prime (i think) and it probably wouldnt get to hot running at 20 minute increments, would it? i think it would heat up good running at 20 second spurts, but at 20 minutes, just when it starts gettin nice and warm, it shuts down a cools for 20 minutes.
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ANDY
You don't stop laughing because you grow old, you grow old because you stop laughing. Which is ironic, because old people are hilarious.
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05-14-2007, 09:04 PM
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#20
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It can be rebuilt.
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
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oohh, oooh, i can answer that, since that picture looks awfully familiar.
Andy is correct, that cross with the plug in it is for priming the system. i would plug up the the outlets and quickly pour a cup of water in the priming hole and plug it when it overflows. i would only have to do this if i did a big water change and the water level would drop below the outlets.
they actually worked very well.
G~
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Think Tanker
Friends Don't Let Friends Use Refugiums!
Reef Knowledge Impaired
"J" crowd member.
My Build Thread
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05-14-2007, 09:08 PM
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#21
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It can be rebuilt.
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
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if any pump could handle the chiller in line it would be the T3. i would try it. if you can put an eductor on the outlet you may not see a difference at all. if the eductor has a 3/8" inner nozzle it would create more back pressure than the 1/2" chiller.
G~
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Think Tanker
Friends Don't Let Friends Use Refugiums!
Reef Knowledge Impaired
"J" crowd member.
My Build Thread
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