The Rebuild Begins!!!

[TimmyG]

Originally Posted by Geoff

HD is fine for most stuff, but for some reason the HD's here do not carry the selection of PVC fittings that the blue store does. of course since i am just getting the normal stuff now any coupon would work. i will scour the HD site and see if i can find something. i just gotta get all of that pipe by Saturday.

G~

The Lowes neer me has about 3X the selection of PVC fittings as my nearest HD. And the HD had no black ABS at all.

[tdwyatt]

Ditto on the really thin-walled Schedule 30 Fittings and pipe (was schedule P) that is better for drain and return construction inside the tank, especially if you intend to build a Durso overflow...


Also true for Jaco fittings, etc., although I prefer the Orange Box for most other items.

[Geoff]

added another coat of paint to the wall behind the tank. it almost matches now.

counted all of the coins from our coin jar. $460.50!! that should help. now i just have to find a way to carry the 30#'s of coins to the bank tomorrow.

G~

[TimmyG]

Geoff,
Have you checked plumbing supply places?
They may have 2" in 20' sticks with flared ends.
that may be cheaper???

Just a thought

[tdwyatt]

Originally Posted by TimmyG

Geoff,
Have you checked plumbing supply places? They may have 2" in 20' sticks with flared ends. that may be cheaper???

Just a thought

...but remember that you still have to be able to get it under the house and into the crawl space...

[Geoff]

Originally Posted by tdwyatt

...but remember that you still have to be able to get it under the house and into the crawl space...

yep, a 20'er would be entertaining to get under the house. not saying that it would not work, but i do not want to set up the video camera for the proceedings.

Tom, i have another set of hands to help us. i guess that means i need to get more Guiness.

G~

[tdwyatt]

Originally Posted by Geoff

...I have another set of hands to help us, I guess that means I need to get more Guiness...

Heh!

check out the bloopers... http://www.guinness.com/us_en/

I am bringing a few tools as well (chalk line, extra primer & glue bottles and swabs, cordless drill/screwdriver, PVC saw and workmate, and a box full of "just-in-case" PVC items), once the chalk line is snapped, we can have one person prime and glue, another person feed the pipe through the wall, and the third person attach and mount the pipe to the beam at the chalk line!~


...but that would require clear heads and good organization, maybe the Guinness will be too cold to drink...




NOT!

[TimmyG]

Tom I thought you were a Becks dark man

[Geoff]

Ok, this is the plan as it stands now.

here is a diagram of the back of the tank and the basic placement of the bulkheads. all along the top of the tank there will be a Coast to Coast overflow. that will extend just below the 1.5" bulkheads for the CLS inlets. the 1" drain for the sump will just be a simple adjustable elbow for water height control. will be independant of the weirs in the C-C overflow. the 3/4" bulkheads for the Velocity returns will be plumbed completely through the C-C overflows. the holes are set where they are because of the odd shape of the wall behind the tank. these returns will come in here then make a 90 degree turn to the outside ends of the tank. here they will make another 90 degree turn toward the front of the tank where they will emerge from the C-C overflow. here they will be pushing at least one eductor per side.



this is a view of the mantle hole placements. this is fairly straight forward. the only odd one will be the sump return hole. the mantle side is drilled at 2", but the floor hole is only for 1" pipe. this can easily be changed if convinced that this is a bad idea. i would like to use 1" here because fitting 10' of pipe in this corner will be difficult. 1" flexes, 2" does not.



this last pic is the side view of the Saltwater Superhighway (Tom). as you can tell i seriously simplified it, but you will get the idea. every pipe has its own 2" pipe to the shelf on the far right. the only exception is for the Velocity CLS's. (i have a feeling i am going to hear it from Tom on this one). the inlet for the two Velocity pumps is one 2" pipe going the full length of the house. right at the sump are is where it will Tee off for each pump. i am hoping that the fact that the Velocity T3's are relatively low volume, high pressure pumps that they will have no problems pulling what they want from the 2" pipe instead of fighting eachother for the water. if not than i can always slap an iwaki on there and 4 eductors and call it good. i would just like to have some tidal movements. only half of the time both pumps will be on. the rest of the time they will be switching back and forth. prolly 6 hour intervals.



ok fire away, what would you do different? am i off my rocker? any questions about my silly drawings?

Tom suggests putting cleanout Tees on the ends just under the mantle and by the sump. i agree, so those are not drawn, but will be implemented. i normally slap unions everywhere, but when they are $5 a pop i am less inclined to go nuts with them. another point to keep in mind. each true union is $22, so i would like to keep these to a minimum also.

G~

[tdwyatt]

Originally Posted by TimmyG

Tom I thought you were a Becks dark man

I like them both! My latest fave is a beer brewed just down the road from you, but it is next to impossible to get (hence my latest endeavor to brew it myself), Thomas Creek Doplebock, an awesome beer!

Prior to that, my fave was the St. Pauli Girl Dark, or the Warsteinner Dark draught, but they are so hard to come by as of late.


You need to check out Barley's in downtown G'vlle, they have awesome pizza and (usually) have some of the Thomas Creek dopplebock in stock. Unfortunately, they do not bottle the dopplebock.

[three90s&125sump]

Hey Tom, Why don't you drink a milkshake with some whiskey in it? All that stuff is thick, I like Budwieser.

[tdwyatt]

My only comment so far is that cutting pvc pipe and reconnecting it with a 32 cent coupler in the rare event that you might need to disconnect the pipe is much cheaper done even 10 times than buying the 2 x $5 or $6 unions needed to make the pipe accessable/removable (but then you still would not be able to remove the long run of pipe without cutting it anyway...), but Geoff and I have already discussed this. So long as there are vents included at the highest point of the SWSH, this will work without issue. Realistically, the only places you'll need to include valves and/or quick releases will be at the points where you're placing the pumps (to make it easy to pull them for repair or maintenance without draining the 10 or so gallons of water that 60 feet of 2" pipes will hold. That and the usualy siphon break precautions to stop the tank from draining in entirety through the return lines.


We'll talk about the pump issue...






Heck, I am getting excited!

[tdwyatt]

ROAD TRIP!



getting my stuff together, changing the oil in the bimmer, might even tke the FILM camera for a few pix...

[three90s&125sump]

Tom,

What the heck is that? Analog pictures?

[three90s&125sump]

Oh and isn't it like 12:30AM in SC? Its a little late to change oil.