The Rebuild Begins!!!

[three90s&125sump]

But seriously I used the leveling compounds through out my entire house when I rebuilt it and unless you are covering them up with some type of flooring (not carpet) they dont work really well. They level the floor ($40 per bag) but just generally. They don't blend into anything, there is always an 1/8 inch bump all the way around the "puddle" and if you use real hardwood you need to grind off the bump or it will make placing the wood impossible. Further more I used it in my basement and any moisture what so ever couses it to crack, peel and flake off. I'm very unhappy with the results I got from what I used, exept where I took the time to grind the bump off the perimeter of the "puddle".

[Geoff]

Originally Posted by tdwyatt

I guess I'd better bring a nail gun...


btw, I would not worry about making the floor level in the basement, if you spill, you want it to move to your floor drain and get out of the way rather than doing the wet/dry vacuum thingy...


Should I bring my lineman's stuff?

no need to bring a nail gun unless yours is not a finish nailer. i have finish nail guns up to 2" but do not have a headed nail gun.

the lineman's stuff may be a good thing.

i may skip the leveling compound than. i just thought it might help, but sounds like it will be more trouble than any real benefit.

i am just putting up some walls to be able to hand my RO/Di filter and segregate my stuff from the rest of the area. i prolly will not even cover the studs.

i still need to reroute my circuit to its new position. lots to do.

G~

[three90s&125sump]

Geoff do you have any picks of the sump location?

[tdwyatt]

Lemmesee if my brother has my framing gun, I have a nice little pancake compressor and a ton of 5/8" hose.

[Geoff]

Originally Posted by tdwyatt

Lemmesee if my brother has my framing gun, I have a nice little pancake compressor and a ton of 5/8" hose.

i also have a pancake compressor, so if you need the room, you do not need to bring it. as for the hose, i have a 20' and that is it, i think, have not been home in 6 months, so i have to hunt down all of my stuff again.

G~

[rangerfan]

wow geoff this will be sweet, jsut email my plane ticket conformation number and i will be more thna happy to help you out!!!

[Geoff]

Originally Posted by three90s&125sump

Geoff do you have any picks of the sump location?

where the bucket is up on top of that ledge is where the sump will go. that is a concrete ledge. it is about 4' deep. when the addition was added they needed to leave a fair amount of earth to keep the house standing untill the basement was finished.

G~

[three90s&125sump]

So your sump is gonna sit behind this Faux wall?

Wow, thats funny you picture changed while I was typing here.

[Geoff]

Originally Posted by three90s&125sump

So your sump is gonna sit behind this Faux wall?

Wow, thats funny you picture changed while I was typing here.

sorry about that. when i posted the link i saw it was wrong, so i corrected it.

i will make an opening in that faux wall for a door to get in there when i need to. i figure most of the stuff i should be able to reach by just reaching into the area. this is a vast improvement over having to climb up onto the mantle and reach behind the aquarium to mess with something.

G~

[three90s&125sump]

You have the same thing going on with your sump and what not (I only have about 10 - 20 feet) with the distance the water will travel in the return line and overflow lines.

How do you plan to deal with the temperature fluctuation in those lines. Any free swimming bacteria or plankton along with any temperature sensitive compounds in the water colum will be adversly effected by the fluctuation here.

[skeety]

Originally Posted by three90s&125sump

But seriously I used the leveling compounds through out my entire house when I rebuilt it and unless you are covering them up with some type of flooring (not carpet) they dont work really well. They level the floor ($40 per bag) but just generally. They don't blend into anything, there is always an 1/8 inch bump all the way around the "puddle" and if you use real hardwood you need to grind off the bump or it will make placing the wood impossible. Further more I used it in my basement and any moisture what so ever couses it to crack, peel and flake off. I'm very unhappy with the results I got from what I used, exept where I took the time to grind the bump off the perimeter of the "puddle".

was this a recommendation? hahaha. If so, your "Selling" skills need some work!

[Geoff]

Originally Posted by three90s&125sump

You have the same thing going on with your sump and what not (I only have about 10 - 20 feet) with the distance the water will travel in the return line and overflow lines.

How do you plan to deal with the temperature fluctuation in those lines. Any free swimming bacteria or plankton along with any temperature sensitive compounds in the water colum will be adversly effected by the fluctuation here.

i am hoping for the temp fluctuations in the line. i am hoping all of this exposed piping in a cool crawlspace will help with cooling.

since this is going to be a SPS system i am not worried about critters dieing en route to and from the pumps. the skimmer should take care of any of these unfortunate soals.

i am hoping that cooling will not as big of an issue this time. i will be running 250's intead of 400's. running a clean BB tank, less lighting is needed to get the same net effect.

G~

[Geoff]

here is a pic of the initial PVC purchase. these pieces were bought to double check their measurements for fit behind the tank up on the mantle. i have realized that i have to move a couple of the holes in the tank a little further apart in order for the CLS return to fit properly. i have also found that i needed to move the CLS return hole a little further back in order to fit all of the valves and unions needed. i hope to hit Lowe's and get the bulk of the elbows, couplers, and 10' lengths of 2" PVC by mid week. hoping to get everything set for this weekend. i am going to be broke after getting all of the true unions i would like to put on this system. $22 bucks a pop! i am afraid to add them all up, but it will be about 10!



G~

[three90s&125sump]

Geoff its much cheaper to buy a union and a ball valve. That what I did. I think its like $2 for the valve and $1 for the union. Well 2 inch might be a little more maybe double that, but stll cheaper than the true unions.

[Casey]

Jason your sig does not say your cheap also.