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Old 01-06-2006, 09:57 AM   #31
Brent Cone
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Old 01-06-2006, 09:57 AM   #32
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yea G you know how it is here,if you even use a SS screw we wanna see it!

Right Vince?
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Old 01-06-2006, 10:05 AM   #33
tdwyatt
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drop for drain line PVC is 1/8" vertical drop per foot of horizontal travel. 44 feet would require a drop of 5.5 inches MINIMUM to drain adequately. More in this case IS better...


...and don't forget to vent your drain line.
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Old 01-06-2006, 12:39 PM   #34
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"drop for drain line PVC is 1/8" vertical drop per foot of horizontal travel. 44 feet would require a drop of 5.5 inches MINIMUM to drain adequately. More in this case IS better...


...and don't forget to vent your drain line. "




LOL, I'm glad I got the drain right. Well... thats one thing.
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Old 01-06-2006, 01:02 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdwyatt
drop for drain line PVC is 1/8" vertical drop per foot of horizontal travel. 44 feet would require a drop of 5.5 inches MINIMUM to drain adequately. More in this case IS better...


...and don't forget to vent your drain line.
i am unable to put a true vent in the line. what i am thinking is, tell me if this will work. the overflow pipe from the tank is 1" pipe. i plan on running 2" pipe immediately from the 1" overflow all the way to the sump. i am hoping that the extra diameter of the pipe will act as the vent. if not then i have another plan, i do not like it, but i do have another plan.

for the overflow i plan on using a 1" bulkhead with an upturned elbow in the tank. this will be the overflow. attached to the back side of the bulkhead i plan on putting a 1" to 2" adaptor. this adaptor will then seat into a 2" Tee. the Tee will have one end up acting as a Dursa and vent.

G~
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Old 01-06-2006, 01:07 PM   #36
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I wish my wife would stop taking the camera to work with her.
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Old 01-06-2006, 03:10 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff
...for the overflow i plan on using a 1" bulkhead with an upturned elbow in the tank. this will be the overflow. attached to the back side of the bulkhead i plan on putting a 1" to 2" adaptor. this adaptor will then seat into a 2" Tee. the Tee will have one end up acting as a Dursa and vent.

G~
extend the top part f the "T" up several inches to prevent issues with any potential backpressure that may occur should the line become blocked (GOD FORBID! ) and that can be your vent stack. It doesn't have to be huge, just a few inches higher than the highest point in your line. At the back of the tank, I am assuming that this will be the highest point in the drain line. So long as it is the same diameter as the most vertical part of the line, it should work without a problem, and you line will be gurgle-free. Once the line goes horizontal and the diameter remains at 2", the pipe for the horizontal run should be able to run without creating a siphon.


Then again, for a really good EuroGuiness or two (or a miniKeg) I could be persuaded to come up for a day or manual labor...
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Old 01-06-2006, 03:25 PM   #38
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Thanks!!! that is what i was thinking.

as much as i would like the help, i would not want anybody to have to help do this. crawling around in the crawlspace, laying over 300' of PVC piping!!. this is not including the plumbing for the tanks to get to the water highway.

now, if you just want to stop by and have a pint or two, then i will run out right now and get us a 4 pack or two or three!! BTW-they are much cheaper over here than over there. we can even drink them out of officially 5 fingered discounted Guiness pint glasses.

G~
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Old 01-06-2006, 09:37 PM   #39
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Mmmmmm... guiness glasses!

u have PM
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Old 01-06-2006, 10:01 PM   #40
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yea G you know how it is here,if you even use a SS screw we wanna see it!

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Old 01-07-2006, 09:59 AM   #41
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OK, here are some more pics. nothing special, but just showing what is going on.

here are the drilling bits i will/have used so far.




on top is the 6' pilot hole bit. no way to measure in the crawlspace so i had to drill the upper hole in the mantle than pilot hole into the crawlspace from above using this bit. worked pretty well. had to keep the pressure kinda low, so as not to bow the bit, but worked well anyway. i could not find a 6' bit so i used a 2' bit used for installing audio boxes in houses and used 4 1' extensions to reach final length. even this long i only had 6 inches of extra room for drilling.

the other bits are a 2.5" wood hole saw for drilling holes for the 2" PVC. i also used a 1.5" wood hole saw for the 1" PVC return pipe for the sump.

then there are the 3 diamond holes saw that i will use for the tank. a 72mm for the 1.5" bulkheads, a 42mm for the 3/4" bulkheads, and a 1.75" hole saw for the 1" bulkhead.

this next pic is of the holes drilled in the mantle.



hard to tell exactly which line will fit to the tank best yet. where the holes are now are pretty much the only places the holes could be. i had to dodge 2X4 cross bracings and the fireplace itself, so i was pretty limited in hole placement.

starting from the left:
2" hole for CLS inlet

what looks like a 2" hole will actually be a 1" return from the sump. needed to be 2" for inspection purposes. had to make sure it was not going to hit anything.

2" hole for the CLS return, this will go to the two lower 1.5" bulkheads, a little worried about fitting here.

2" hole for the sump overflow. needs to be 2" to act as a vent. the actual overflow will be 1".

2" hole for the 2 other CLS inlets. each powered by a Velocity T3.

right next to that are 2 3/4" PVC pipes sticking out. these were the feed lines from the chiller into the tank. they will now be the Velocity CLS returns. one for each side of the tank. each will cary an eductor.

to the very far right was the water top off feed line from the purifier down in the crawlspace. right now no plans are in the works for this line, but i am sure i will come up with something.

i am still trying to figure out exactly how i am going to run all of those 2" pipes. i am toying with combining all of the CLS inlets into one 4" pipe. i am a little worried about weight if i do that. i do plan on combining them right before they reach the pumps. this will hopefully equalize the pull from the two inlet bulkheads.

G~
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Old 01-09-2006, 08:28 AM   #42
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okay...you had all weekend! Any more progress?
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Old 01-09-2006, 10:55 AM   #43
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no, not really. i am still trying to figure out exactly how much PVC pipe to get. i am thining i will need close to 400' of 2" PVC. then there is all of the little fittings. i ran out to HD and Lowe's on Sunday, but the ones by me do not carry the selection that the one by my work does, so i will need to pick them up from their. i may do that today.

there are a couple of holes i may try to widen to help with fittings.

i am also starting to plan on how i want to wall in the area. for this i need pressure treated lumber since it is below ground. not a big deal, just more materials i need to get. i have plenty of regular studs, but only a few treated ones.

i am also looking into leveling compounds for the floor of the new area. forgot to look at that on Sunday.

all of our family time keeps getting in the way of my fishtank time.

the good news is, Tom is heading up so that we have at least 2 people to help lego nearly 400' of PVC piping!!!

G~
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Old 01-09-2006, 10:57 AM   #44
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"all of our family time keeps getting in the way of my fishtank time. "



What I do to take of the family is run around ranting a raving about anything and everything then after a couple hours of this everyone pretty much just stays away from me.
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Old 01-09-2006, 11:04 AM   #45
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I guess I'd better bring a nail gun...


btw, I would not worry about making the floor level in the basement, if you spill, you want it to move to your floor drain and get out of the way rather than doing the wet/dry vacuum thingy...


Should I bring my lineman's stuff?
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