The Rebuild Begins!!! - Page 16

gitsumpottery · 02-01-2006, 06:18 PM

mmmm beer.....

Geoff · 02-01-2006, 08:04 PM

once again i have proven the fact that i can not use threaded connnectors when using PVC.

half of the plugs i put in are seeping. does not concern me because this has nothing to do with the integrity of the tank. i tried to do what Roger said, so maybe i am just a wimp and not getting midievel on them when screwing them in. i guess i need to start practicing. i have several threaded connectors i need to do in the final plumbing.

G~

gitsumpottery · 02-01-2006, 08:09 PM

Did you rescrew them in with teflon? or just leave them when we put them in Monday? Cause that'll make a difference

I found a really cool thread about building a calcium reactor that can also be a kalk reactor body. It has a flat base too.... I'll show you sometime when I come over (it's actually nothing big, but I thought it was cool).

Geoff · 02-01-2006, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gitsumpottery

Did you rescrew them in with teflon? or just leave them when we put them in Monday? Cause that'll make a difference

now i know i am inept at threaded PVC, but not that bad.

i actually took all of the bulkheads out tefloned the threads with 3-4 wraps. i then tighted them into thier respective holes with a wrench. when they stuck i stopped. i then put them on the tank to stress test.

G~

gitsumpottery · 02-01-2006, 08:18 PM

then the only other logical reason is that they don't like you...

tdwyatt · 02-01-2006, 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gitsumpottery

then the only other logical reason is that they don't like you...

Geoff · 02-02-2006, 09:43 PM

minor stuff going on tonight. drained the tank to start work on the faux SB. doing some overnight experiments on what sticks to HDPE and what does not. planning on putting a layer of HDPE down underneath the epoxy SB. this is just to raise up the faux SB a bit. would like to have it just below the level of the frame.

the plan is to put a layer of wax paper down in the tank. then aquascape the tank. when it is back to the way i like it i will start epoxying the LR in layers. each mound will prolly be in 3 or 4 pieces. the last course of LR will not be moved. i will then pour the 3g of the epoxy SB into the tank with the LR in it. i will then use wax paper barriers in strategic places to break up the entire faux SB in 4 or 5 pieces. that way i can remove it so that we can place up on the mantle when the time comes. when the SB is out i will then put down a layer of HDPE. i will then fill in any gaps around the edges with silly cone. i am hoping that the HDPE does not stick to the silly cone. that way i can then remove the HDPE and cut it to match the shapes of the faux SB with the LR on it. i will then cement these two matching pieces together to form a more solid structure. at this point i will be able to put the tank up on the mantle to do final plumbing. when that is done i can start putting the faux SB and LR back in. seal around the edges of the faux SB with silly cone and call it good!!

there is a lot of drying time in all of these steps.

but a lot less than if i were to use agrocrete.

using some ideas from motoslaves thread i think i will be able to do a fairly easy two step water change!! if i can get the flow just right, i way not have to siphon out the display at all.

somehow i doubt this will be the case.

G~

gitsumpottery · 02-05-2006, 08:01 AM

hey geoff,
you need those acrylic pieces yet? sorry, been kind of busy and not around much...

Zac

PowerManJ316 · 02-06-2006, 12:47 PM

Question about the holes for your sump.
I know the recommended holes for the 1.5" bulkhead I am using was 2 3/8" ~ 06.325mm. Did you use the 70mm hole saw for this or what size did you use?

PowerManJ316 · 02-06-2006, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PowerManJ316

Question about the holes for your sump.
I know the recommended holes for the 1.5" bulkhead I am using was 2 3/8" ~ 06.325mm. Did you use the 70mm hole saw for this or what size did you use?

Sorry I am dislexic, 2 3/8" ~ 60.325mm

Geoff · 02-06-2006, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PowerManJ316

Sorry I am dislexic, 2 3/8" ~ 60.325mm

so am i, so i got what you were saying. it was not until you posted the correction that i realized it was wrong.

for the bulkheads i bought, 70mm was the correct size for them. i got the ones from Marine Depot. they fit perfectly. it is important to get the hole size to match the bulkheads you plan to buy. when you start getting bigger than 3/4" the bulkheas sizes can be very different.

G~

tims · 02-06-2006, 01:08 PM

SOoooooooo any pictures of the experiment Geoff? or are you busy writing?

Geoff · 02-06-2006, 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tims

SOoooooooo any pictures of the experiment Geoff? or are you busy writing?

cluck, cluck, cluck.

i think i have a couple pics i can post when i get home. i went out and bought the cheapest table saw i could find for some acrylic experiments and playing with concrete forming tubes for a canopy.

you can get a $100 Delta table saw with stand at Lowes.

at it actually cuts pretty straight!!

of course if you try and cut anything thicker than 1/2" it gets bogged, but hey i am just ripping acrylic.

i have found that 3M 90 spray adhesive does stick to both epoxy and HDPE so that part of the problem is solved.

G~

tims · 02-06-2006, 05:25 PM

Geoff if you are only cutting a small piece you can use a jig saw . but watch the cuts, they will bond back if you go too slow

Geoff · 02-06-2006, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tims

Geoff if you are only cutting a small piece you can use a jig saw . but watch the cuts, they will bond back if you go too slow

i have been doing acrylic with a jig saw for a while now and have had it.

i actually have to cut several 4' lengths that need to be identical. doing that with a jig or even a circular saw is just to tedious. i also needed a whay to cut 4" PVC lengthwise also. doing this with either of the previously mentioned tools is even more annoying.

G~