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Old 09-04-2006, 09:20 AM   #1
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the BEST phosphate remover??


BESIDES ro/di and good husbandry.

I have always used phosban as I was under the understanding that it was as good as i could do. I heard in a couple of threads yesterday, that Rowa-phos may be better.

Please elaborate

: )
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Old 09-04-2006, 10:36 AM   #2
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I use PhosGuard from Seachem. It seems to work well.
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Old 09-04-2006, 01:51 PM   #3
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Sprayin70, Beware of PhosGuard, it is aluminum oxide which can harm corals.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issu...y2003/chem.htm
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issu...004/review.htm

Fly Guy, I use RowaPhos or PhosBan, they are both iron oxide and work well. I have heard some great things about Rowa, but I couldn;t give you any real details as to why it's better or worst than phosBan.
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Old 09-04-2006, 02:45 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly Guy View Post
BESIDES ro/di and good husbandry.

I have always used phosban as I was under the understanding that it was as good as i could do. I heard in a couple of threads yesterday, that Rowa-phos may be better.

Please elaborate

: )

Hey! Fly Guy! what's up i found this check it out i use phosban when i need it, but i havent had to use it for a while.
Brent.ROWAPhos Berlin Test Results (PDF)
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Old 09-04-2006, 03:28 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brent Cone View Post
Hey! Fly Guy! what's up i found this check it out i use phosban when i need it, but i havent had to use it for a while.
Brent.ROWAPhos Berlin Test Results (PDF)

cool..thanks Brent...i havent read it yet..i will

As far as "needing" to use it. I dont have any measurable phosphates in my water, nor any nuisance algae......i have cooked the heck out of all of my rock.

BUT, on tdwyatts advice, even though i DONT have measurable phosphates i have been running phosban 3 weeks out of the month and carbon the other week in my phosban reactor for two months now.....( he might not have laid it down EXACTLY like that but regardless..............got me thinking)

The concept makes sense to me so i am going to continue........

: )

thanks for the link..ill check it out.
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Old 09-04-2006, 03:44 PM   #6
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And there you have it. Too bad phosban wasnt included in the test, but it appears that Rowaphos is indeed the best choice.

I didnt read every word. Did anybody else pull out any points to ponder from those tests???
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Old 09-04-2006, 04:02 PM   #7
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Hmmmm. It sounds like a good time to switch brands. Thanks
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Old 09-04-2006, 04:19 PM   #8
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Rowaphos and phosban are both excellent choices from what I have gathered, I use a small amount of phosban myself.
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Old 09-05-2006, 03:38 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly Guy View Post
BESIDES ro/di and good husbandry.

I have always used phosban as I was under the understanding that it was as good as i could do. I heard in a couple of threads yesterday, that Rowa-phos may be better.

Please elaborate

: )
So long as both products are 100% Iron oxide/hydrxide, there should be little difference between using the two, I have not seen any remarkable diff between using either one in a reactor, and I change the media about every 8 to 12 months (2 Months, when I remember it... ). The real reason to use this type of reactive media is to be able to catch what little free phosphate does appear in the water column, keeping in mind that the biological systems in the tank and the abiotic activity of reversible adsorption to calcium-based substrates compete aggressively for this same phosphate. The use as such is an attempt to remove whatever phosphate can be captured with the media, just as the algae and bacteria compete to capture any free phosphate for their growth. Some biotic systems have an advantage in that they produce phosphatases that may liberate free phosphate from either complex molecules or from adsorbed sources, others may directly convert otherwise unusable forms of phosphate either through digestion of proteins or through pH shifting of their immediate environment. Regardless of how the phosphates are liberated, their live as free phosphates is short, as they usually find some biotic or abiotic sink quickly. Our goal through using a phosphate reactor is to attempt to capture some of what IS liberated, then to remove it from the system permanently.


For export, the hydroxides of iron are much more effective than aluminum salts (which may be toxic to Sarcophyton) or resin compounds in that they do not reversibly leach the phosphates back into the system, so in this respect, these iron compounds are much better than the other phosphate removing products, however, I am not convinced that there is a difference in the two products that utilized the iron oxide/hydroxides.


Heh, FINALLY GOT THIS UP, THE DIALUP OUT HERE TODAY HAS BEEN ATTROCIOUS, THIS IS ATTEMPT 5...
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Old 09-05-2006, 03:49 PM   #10
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Thanks Tom. : )
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Old 09-05-2006, 04:18 PM   #11
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Two choices with chemical P removers:
One: aluminum
Two: iron

Both will put those metals in your aquarium.
Choose your poison. Combine it with carbon that releases P, and it's a moot point.

I prefer wet skimming to remove particulates, and associated P, instead of adding a chemical.
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Old 09-05-2006, 06:00 PM   #12
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I agree with Spanky!
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Old 09-05-2006, 06:05 PM   #13
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From the school of spanky i agree. Iron in the tank is fertalizer for algae too. the best option with no side effect is wet skimming.
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