tank building question

dbman · 10-11-2001, 05:28 PM

This is kinda weird I know, but I'm trying to build a Plywood/glass aquarium GARF-style and I'd like to make either dual corner overflows or a big center rear overflow, either way they will be bottom-drilled with a durso standpipe. My question is how can I attach the boxes to the tank? Should I make a full (4-side+bottom) acrylic enclosure and then silicone that against a tank wall (tank walls will be multi-coated two-part expoxy) and run the bulkhead through the bottom wood and a layer of acrylic? Or can I just silicone or epoxy the edges of the acrylic against the wood tank wall? Anyone have any thoughts on material compatibility here?

TIA

Minnreefer · 10-11-2001, 05:38 PM

I am no expert since I have not built one yet.... I would say that you can make a u and glue and silcone the edges to the glass and bottom. What size of tank are you going to build?
HTH
Jon

dbman · 10-11-2001, 05:50 PM

I'm going to make a 72"x30"x28" which totals out to a little under 280 gallons... I think.

tdwyatt · 10-11-2001, 06:17 PM

heh heh heh, Just a note from one that has overbuilt in the past, remember that you need to keep in mind how long your reach is, it's a pain to have to work in the tank if you can just barely reach to bottom (and the back) from the top...

dbman · 10-11-2001, 06:27 PM

That was why I stuck it at 30" deep rather than 36 as I had planned... with a footstool and my relatively long arms I think I'll be stretching but not too terribly much. Thanks for the warning (which I'm listening to myself cheerfully ignore!!!)

Maybe I should downsize some but I really want some significant dimension other than LENGTH to my tank.

ReefJunkie · 10-11-2001, 07:38 PM

I would skip building overflows and just drill the back of the tank at the top where you want the water level. Put a bulk head in and a strainer on the inside and your set. This way there is'nt any chance of losing all the water out of the hole in the bottom.

hamburglar · 10-11-2001, 08:30 PM

Considering the complexity of building the overflows, you could consider simply using a bulkhead, pvc pipe, and gate valve to silence it. I have an example of the setup on my web site. The link is listed below.

I have seen this system working on as big as a 240 gallon tank without any problems, just add more drain pipe as needed for flow volume.

Just my 2 cents.

dbman · 10-11-2001, 08:55 PM

Hmm... I was running a bulkhead at surface level on my 55 and it couldn't even flow enough to match my RIO 1700 running as a return pump. Was like a 1 1/2" bulkhead too. That's why I wanted to do a standpipe; also to eliminate a big pipe space behind the tank. Standpipe at least has some water column above it to expedite the water outflow.

dbman · 10-11-2001, 09:08 PM

Also, since I'm going plywood, the bottom and back will both be 3/4" plywood which will be plenty stable for a bulkhead fitting of any size; I'm not really worried about that part leaking, just the overflow box itself... which is why I was thinking to make a box of acrylic with only the top open, silicon the entire bottom to the tank bottom and run the bulkhead through both pieces. I do appreciate the advice and I will definitely take it into consideration... further comments would be much appreciated (nobody on a couple of "larger" reef bbs has even TOUCHED this question so I really appreciate you guys!)