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Originally Posted by russbriscoe
My wife and I are still thinking about the size tank. She wants a large one and I want a smaller one because of the added coast...
...The tank will be on the main level of the house and all the dirty stuff will be in the basement. I will build the sump the same way people build plywood tanks so I can make it the same size as my main tank if I want to. I will also put it on wheels so I can move it if I ever need to.
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Although you did not ask directly about this, two issues pop immediately out with this, First off, if you're speaking about small in terms of less than 65 gal, then keep in mind that although your initial costs may be higher, a larger system is (at least for me) easier and cheaper (except for salt) to run, and is much more stable than trying to micromanage a smaller system. In addition, it is much more forgiving of lapses in husbandry than small systems are.
Also, if you want your sump to be mobile, I would suggest using a Rubbermaid feeding trough (100-200 gal) on a trolley specifically indicated/built for this purpose if you want it to be mobile. They are already finished and are structurally sound, the dollies are built specifically to support this kind of weight, and the material is easy to drill for bulkheads, although I would recommend that you make both the drains to this sump and the returns back to the tank with spa-flex PVC pipe. Getting the support for the sump and wheels appropriate for moving this much weight may end up being more than most folks are able to do with a DIY approach with wood. By the time you get the proper grade of marine plywood, apply the fasteners needed to construct the tank of the appropriate strength, finish the surface of the wood, and caulk/fill all the seams; you'd spend more for the materials than you would for the Rubbermaids, especially if you shop the Atlanta market for a used trough in either the Aquarium ads or the livestock ads.
...And then there is the sweat equity issue...
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Originally Posted by russbriscoe
Here are my questions.
1.) Does the sump need clear sides or can I build it out of plywood. (Pros/Cons)
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No, it does not HAVE to be clear, although working in it over time is a bit easier if you can see into it. Keep in mind that solid opaque sides don't need scraping (to remove coralline and any microalgal accumulations), and most of the stuff people have in their sumps is there so it WON'T be seen. If you want easy, make it opaque, and if you want a viewable sump for a refugium, then place a tank above your sump and let it gravity-feed from one of the upstairs overflows, and drain from an in-refugium overflow into the main sump. There will be enough gravity-driven water force to tumble suspended colonies of
Gracillaria spp. of microalgae without problem, avoiding the need for an extra pump for this device.
Regardless of what you construct in the basement, you will need a strong pump with a good head pressure to be capable of returning your water from the basement to the main tank. Getting a sequence or a Dolphin that is quiet, and isolating the vibrations from solid surfaces will help keep your treasure trove in the basement from sonically intruding into your living space.
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Originally Posted by russbriscoe
2.) If my tank needs about the same #LR as it has water do I need more LR for my sump too? If not why?
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Base your live rock placement on total system volume, especially if you keep any critters (like urchins and snail, etc.) in the sump/refugium. Although many folks prolly use too much rock, having the spare capacity will help control nutrient issues with the tank, especially during needed bacterial population ramp-ups if you have an unrecoverable critter death in the main tank.
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Originally Posted by russbriscoe
3.) If I have more water in my sump will that allow me to have a few more fish?
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A
qualified yes. Although the extrae rock will provide more capacity for deammonification to support a larger fish population density; the more fish you have in a system, the more potential you have for import of nutrients into your system. Everything you have to feed with imported foodstuffs creates more waste, etc., so the issue becomes not "how many fish can the tank support?", but rather (especially for systems that are centered on corals), "Can I successfully export the nutrient load I am importing to my system in response to the number of fishes I desire?"
BTW, now that you've asked us to help, you are now OBLIGATED to supply photos of the progress...
HTH
