Sump Design Help

[Fat Tony]

only 2 baffles needed from the fuge to the return. the fitst over baffle will set the fuge depth and after that the water level in the return area doesn't need regulation as it will rise and fall with evap.

here's mine. On the left side of the pic is the skimmer section the center is the return and the right is the "fuge" only 2 baffles between each section and with the ATO my water level rarely changes

[nanofreak]

Jeremy I had the glass at 12 in exac the fit was just enough so the glass
can move. Doug now that's another way I can do it that I like I was getting hooked
on the fuge on the right though I have the one baffle
in I need to make a decision on what the layout is lol

[Doug1]

[quote=Fat Tony;1569705]only 2 baffles needed from the fuge to the return. the fitst over baffle will set the fuge depth and after that the water level in the return area doesn't need regulation as it will rise and fall with evap.

here's mine. On the left side of the pic is the skimmer section the center is the return and the right is the "fuge" only 2 baffles between each section and with the ATO my water level rarely changes


OK I see what you did, with a higher level in the return area, hopefully most bubbles will rise before going under into the pump area. I always made tha last over baffle to try and force out as many bubbles as possible
side note, they way you do it you eliminate the water cascading over the last baffle and creating more bubbles from the water fall effect

[nanofreak]

Ok so why do some have 3 on one side over
under over. And only 1 from fuge to return

[nanofreak]

I tried to upload some pics but its telling me they are to big even using a converter...

[Phishnoob]

Okay some times you get lucky.

They had already cut sheets of glass at HD for 2.50 that are 10 x 12. Got the rafter squares at Harbor Freight for six bucks each and the Mini Tony sump is going to go together this weekend. They must have designed the 20L just to be a sump for a 75g.

[fihsboy]

those sheets wont fit. Ive tried. You still have to trim 1/4 an inch off.......which is a pain in the rear. I would get a glass shop to cut it.

[nanofreak]

I went to Lowes and had them cut them for me I spent 12 bucks on Glass fits perfect I would love to show everyone but I cant upload pics anyone have a trick I tried the pic resizing.

[Fat Tony]

Picturetrail.com

Upload them there and then hotlink to them using the right click--> properties, copy link.
Then here on TRT press the little button on top of the reply box that looks like a mountain
<--- this one

and then paste the link into it.
It will then pop up in you reply as an image

[Phishnoob]

Originally Posted by fihsboy

those sheets wont fit. Ive tried. You still have to trim 1/4 an inch off.......which is a pain in the rear. I would get a glass shop to cut it.

I have the glass cutting scorer thing and nippers and am going to try it anyway. Being humbled now and then builds character. Three sides will be good and the icky side will be carefully siliconed over to hide any biffs.

I would have gotten a glass shop to cut it until you guys said it was near impossible to do yourself. Now the attempt HAS to be made.

Our Lowes is cross town and you can't get from East to West here, only North and South.

[Fat Tony]

[quote=Doug1;1569852]

Originally Posted by Fat Tony

only 2 baffles needed from the fuge to the return. the fitst over baffle will set the fuge depth and after that the water level in the return area doesn't need regulation as it will rise and fall with evap.

here's mine. On the left side of the pic is the skimmer section the center is the return and the right is the "fuge" only 2 baffles between each section and with the ATO my water level rarely changes


OK I see what you did, with a higher level in the return area, hopefully most bubbles will rise before going under into the pump area. I always made tha last over baffle to try and force out as many bubbles as possible
side note, they way you do it you eliminate the water cascading over the last baffle and creating more bubbles from the water fall effect

Correct. But there is one thing to add, flow rate. If your flow rate is moderate (say 400-500 gph through the sump) then this design works well. If you are going with a much higher flow rate (I don't recommend high flow rates) then it may not work as well and may require another baffle. I don't recommend flowing more through your sumo than you skimmer can process. Most of the time this is in the few hundred gph range, unless you are 3-90's and a sump with a pump for you skimmer that flows more than some peoples tanks

[nanofreak]

ok here are some pics hope this works. I might have to scrap the whole project though. I put up another Thread regarding heat in the Garage.

[nanofreak]

[nanofreak]

[Doug1]

[quote=Fat Tony;1570198]

Originally Posted by Doug1

Correct. But there is one thing to add, flow rate. If your flow rate is moderate (say 400-500 gph through the sump) then this design works well. If you are going with a much higher flow rate (I don't recommend high flow rates) then it may not work as well and may require another baffle. I don't recommend flowing more through your sumo than you skimmer can process. Most of the time this is in the few hundred gph range, unless you are 3-90's and a sump with a pump for you skimmer that flows more than some peoples tanks

No arguemnt from me, I hae been on the slow thruput sump band wagon for years now, esp when they went to closed loops