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03-18-2005, 11:10 AM
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#16
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Admin/ Super mod
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: New Castle, Delaware
Posts: 20,243
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by drsyme
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THAT S what i was thinking of.. could not remember to save my life
question would be external pump or internal pump?
mag 12 would do, genx 30,40,55 would do. the sequence dart too.
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__________________
Tim
need something to read? just ask me.
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03-18-2005, 11:40 AM
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#17
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Pretty In Pink
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: portland or
Posts: 3,170
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skeety -
Sorry for the confusion, my answer was for cosine.
As tims mentioned - it's a seperate system and can not add the sump return to it. If you have some $$ I would suggest the Oceans motion. The SWCD will not give you the water movement that you want and need - it's limit is 1200 gph and it will take some flow away as that is how it works, by water movement. http://www.oceansmotions.com
good luck
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03-18-2005, 11:54 AM
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#18
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It can be rebuilt.
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by skeety
okay...so we got a little sidetracked here, so let me see if I got this right.
Recommending 1200+ gph total flow for a 72 gln tank? So if I aleady have 500 on the overflow/sump, then I should be looking at at least another 700+ gph for the CLS?
Also, Wanareef's suggesting 3/4" returns, with a 1 1/2 " bulkhead input.
Well, can't (or just don't want to) drill the tank, so we're looking at an overhang input (slightly lower than the overflow line. My question on this is...does it really matter the size of the input? The input nozzle on the pump is only so big...no matter how big the PVC going to that, it can still only pull in so much, right? If I'm wrong (which I'm guessing I am), do I still want a 1 1/2" input for an overhang?
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you have to think of the amount of suction at that input. if you have a 3/4" input and you are pulling 1200gph through it some critters will get killed if they get to close to the inlets. if you increase the inlet size to 1 1/2" the the force is greatly reduced.
if you go with 2" outlets the flow will not be reduced, only the velocity. the flow may actually go up depending on the pump and other possible restrictions. you can push a serious amount of flow through a 2" outlet and it will seem like nothing coming out. this is great for the softies, but not so good for tanks that have a lot of LR and many nooks and crannies.
G~
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Think Tanker
Friends Don't Let Friends Use Refugiums!
Reef Knowledge Impaired
"J" crowd member.
My Build Thread
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03-18-2005, 01:45 PM
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#19
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Pretty In Pink
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: portland or
Posts: 3,170
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03-18-2005, 02:07 PM
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#20
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Big Fishy
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 796
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would it be wise to do a spraybar and one return.
How do you anchor this stuff in the tank....like the spraybar
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03-18-2005, 02:48 PM
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#21
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learning
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Pasadena CA
Posts: 343
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Id go 2-1" retunrs and 2-1" intakes. if your planning on using a 1200gph pump.I now have an 1800gph pump with the same size returns/intakes, and so far have not had any deaths due to the intake suction. I feel it creates just enough suction. I used 1" screened intakes
I will be "T" ing my returns and reducing to 2 - 1/2" locklines off 1 1" return. This will create different current and allow me the option to change current direction if need be.
the pics arent the best but may help someone sometime....
sorry about all the wires...
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Ro/di units are soooo coool, highly recommended
Dominic
much to learn..there is..
my tank
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03-20-2005, 12:59 PM
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#22
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Tang Lover
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 7,283
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Okay...so lots of good info...but some of it confusing/contradicting.
Someone tell me what's right/wrong with doing this:
Some (haven't decided yet) pump that has a rating of 1200 gph.
1 " intake, but it's gonna be a tube 6" long tube with 1/8" holes drilled in it all around (think this well lessen the suction at any given hole...so fish don't get sucked against it).
2 - 1" outputs at each corner of the tank. Each will be t'd at the middle/top, and contine down to an elbow at the bottom. Thus allowing two output's PER corner (total of 4 outputs).
Using 1" pipe everywhere (except into/out of the pump, where I will have to have 3/4" - 1" converters.)
comments? suggestions?
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03-20-2005, 01:16 PM
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#23
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learning
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Pasadena CA
Posts: 343
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id go with 2 1" intakes.. even though you have that pipe with holes in it. I think you will wish youd done 2 intakes.. those holes can and will get clogged, just a matter of time.
this way you will at least have the option of having 2 intakes places.. other than that it sounds good
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Ro/di units are soooo coool, highly recommended
Dominic
much to learn..there is..
my tank
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03-20-2005, 01:41 PM
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#24
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Tang Lover
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 7,283
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So this is an over the top model...nothing drilled.
and I still should have two intakes? just split the input? or are you suggesting two pumps?
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03-20-2005, 01:44 PM
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#25
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Plankton
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Bloomington, IL
Posts: 48
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Just curious guys but what is wrong with putting the inlet(s) in your overflow instead of your tank??? That way you dont have to worry about fish getting in there. This would obviously speed up the water going in/out of the overflow but who cares???
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-Kurt
75 gal +30 gal Sump
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03-20-2005, 07:27 PM
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#26
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Tang Lover
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 7,283
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bump
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03-21-2005, 08:45 AM
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#27
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Tang Lover
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 7,283
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A few more questions:
EASY question: Anyone know a good place on-line to order PVC parts that are black or gray?
DUMB question: Also, I was thinking of running the plumbing so my pump is hangin directly over my sump. This way, in case of a leak, the leak will drop into my sump. But this is rather pointless, hunh? Since if the leak is bad, it'll just overflow in my sump?
TRICKY question: and one last time (since I didn't get much response). anyone see a problem with my design?
Some pump (haven't decided yet) that has a rating of 1200 gph.
1 " intake, but it's gonna be a tube 6" long tube with 1/8" holes drilled in it all around. I think this well lessen the suction at any given hole...so fish don't get sucked against it. (DAC suggested two 1" intakes, instead...anyone else on this?)
2 - 1" outputs at each corner of the tank. Each will be t'd at the middle/top, and contine down to an elbow at the bottom. Thus allowing two output's PER corner (total of 4 outputs). (will I loose anything with this? will most just come out the T, and barely any down at the bottom?)
Using 1" pipe everywhere (except into/out of the pump, where I will have to have 3/4" - 1" converters.)
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03-21-2005, 09:31 AM
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#28
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Tang Lover
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 7,283
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Horace
Just curious guys but what is wrong with putting the inlet(s) in your overflow instead of your tank??? That way you dont have to worry about fish getting in there. This would obviously speed up the water going in/out of the overflow but who cares???
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To answer you question on this, check out this discussion:
http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/sh...ht=Closed+Loop
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03-21-2005, 10:31 AM
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#29
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Montana
Posts: 5,475
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I would suggest checking out local plumbing supply stores for pvc.
Placing the pum over the sump would be a a pretty good idea, if you can do it without extra complex plumbing.
The design sounds perfectly fine, Im doing the same on the input with mine, 1 input with a reverse spraybar.
Remember to take pics 
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~Vince
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03-21-2005, 11:52 AM
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#30
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Tang Lover
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 7,283
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Thanks for the feedback.
I do plan on documenting this well. Lots of places out there have info, but it seemed piecemeal to me. So I'm gonna try to do a really good job of helping those in the future do this project.
Thanks for all the help
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