Spraybar/Return pump

Sebastian · 02-25-2002, 08:24 PM

Anyone with experience with spraybars that are plumbed through the back of the tank via bulkhead just above the sandbed. I would like circulation behind my rockwork without powerheads.
I would rather drill through the back of the tank than plumb up and over the back of the tank. I just don't know how much faith to put into check valves.

Specs
75 gal aga
1 inch drain bulkhead
1/5 sea swirl return
1.25 Durso standpipe
26 gal Sump/Refuguim
1 x 175 12K Sunburst
2 x 250 10k AB
2 x VHO 46" URI

The tank is empty now but is going to be SPS dominated. The Spraybar and choice of return pump are all thats keeping the water out. I am between the GRI 518 and the Iwaki WMD 40 RLXT. Any personal experience there would also help.

TIA
Tracy

ATLANTIS · 02-25-2002, 09:38 PM

I put in a spray bar just as you are planning... just above the sand bed. It is part of the return from the sump (the strainers are part of a separate closed loop) I used a clear 2" check valve and it seems to be working out fine.

more info on my 180

Doug1 · 02-25-2002, 09:44 PM

Tracy, Welcome to TRT

FWIW I have a 75 AGA that I had back drilled for 2 1" bulkheads with a Sen 900 return pump, My friend from LFS has identical tank drilled same but different overflow set up using a mag 18. I guess what I am trying to say is if you want any serious flow you want another 1" or bigger drain. If I had to do mine over I would go 1.5 " I also utilize a 30" spray bar made from 1/2 pvc fed by a 200 gph power head, again if redoing it I would run a MAg 5 (small) or a Hagen 802(400gph)
You could add the bulkheads and run it as a closed loop, i.e. a screened 1 " intake and a 3/4 retrn bulkhead feeding the spray bar. Since the intake and return will be well below the water surface you will want to install gate valves on both bulkheads to shut off water incase you need to work on the pump, HTH

Doug1 · 02-25-2002, 09:48 PM

Brian you replied while I was typing
The advantage to the spray bar being on a isolatable closed loop is that it eliminates the need for a spendy check valve. If that circulatipn pump is shut off there is now drain down to deal with.
Shutting off the gate valves before and after the pump keeps water in the tank except the small amount that is in the short line and pump. Put a bowl under the pump if you need to remove it for maint, etc

Sebastian · 02-26-2002, 12:39 PM

Thanks for the replies. Brian, I have been to your site many times before and always marvel at your setup and your corals. I noticed the 2" drains for your closed cirulation loop and missed the spray bar below. Just for reference about how many GPH are going through it?

Doug, I was hoping to stay in the 1000 GPH range with one overflow and was presuming that the bulkhead could keep up with that amount of flow. If I am persuming wrong I could always up the size of my bulkhead and us the Stockman standpipe design instead which will fit in my overflow instead. I would prefer not to have powerheads in the tank as heat will possibly be an issue with 3 MH in the canopy.

Thanks again
Tracy

Sebastian · 02-27-2002, 03:23 PM

Doug1 · 02-27-2002, 09:43 PM

I dont think you can get that much thru a 1" drain, like I said I have two and if I block one off the Sen 900 overpowers the single drain quickly. A 1.5" might get you closer to your desired flow rate

FishDaddy · 02-27-2002, 10:09 PM

Hi Tracy,

Glad to have another TRT member in this time zone!!!

Dick

tdwyatt · 02-27-2002, 11:44 PM

easier than drilling the tank would be to use a powerhead with the intake covered with a strainer and the exhaust firmly attached to the spraybar pvc behind the rock inside the tank. Just let it run, the circulation can be controlled by the number of holes you drill in the bar. No drilling the tank, and you can make it as extensive as needed for circulation.