Not sure how much that one costs, but AZDesertRat
always gives a nod of approval to their refurbed 90 gpd unit @ $120
and you'll get a gallon of product twice as fast or better spectrapure.com/St_RODI-REFURB.htm" target="_blank">http://www.<a href="http://www.there...ODI-REFURB.htm
Get the refurbed 90gpd. 40 is way to slow. Although you don't need to actually make 90 per day, you don't want to wait 5hrs for 2 gallons. I have a 20long with a 60gpd unit. I wish I went with the 90 and will probably Craigslist the 60 and upgrade.
20long BB - The reef begins where the sand ends - a divers motto
also don't stock up on replacement resin. but do purchase it prior to needing it replaced and store in the back of your fridge.
I use the BRS colour changing nuclear resin, and it lasts for 10 months with my hard water (230ppm tds) I also make 1-2g/day for drinking
from the RO, skipping the DI. So it gets a lot of use.
okay ... it sounds like you guys are sold on the spectrpure systems. And you're right the refurbished unit is $70 cheaper than Marine Depots unit.
Sounds like I should also bump up to the 90gpd unit as well.
Major thanks for the link and advice!!! Much appreciated!!!
I'm running I think 150gpd, forgot as I upgraded a "125" off ebay with
better parts from BRS with the advice of AZDesertRat. Takes me in the summer about 8 mins/gal, and now I'm at 11 mins/gal. The colder the longer it takes. I think you'll be happier with a faster production rate.
Also, check out the video on BRS site on how to replace the DI resin.
Simple, straight fwd, but very informative. You want to pack it as tight as you can, unlike a tumbling reactor of bio pellets or live sand reactor
which needs to be loosely packed and tumble.
check out their how to videos, may help with setup too
Send the flush valve kit back, they would have included it if it did anything other than give you a warm fuzzy feeling. They have no proven value.
If you want to do some good, install a DI bypass valve, very different from the "flush kits", and it actually has some value since it flushes the TDS creep water out before it hits your DI resin. The flush kits only flush the waste side of the membrane not the treated side and thats only in therory, really they don't increase the volume of the velocity enough to scour the membrane so do nothing except lighten your wallet. You will want a handheld TDS meter if you don't already have one so apply that money towards a meter.
az how do you do that flush thing , I had to get a new unit mine got left in texas and needed new filters anyway so was just cheaper to get a new one, ive only made 10 gallons so far and want to keep it working good
i don't think theres enough help in the would for me
Install a 1/4" john guest style tee, short piece of 1/4" tubing and a ball valve between the RO membrane and the DI canister. Each time you make water, flush the initial couple of ounces of TDS creep water out that valve before closing it andsending the RO waster on to the DI filter. This helps extend the life of the DI resin.
Spectrapure now offers automatic versions of this flush system for those who make water autiomatically like with a ATO, float valve or float switches and solenoid valve too.
TDS creep is common with all membranes. Each time you shut the system off, the tap water on the untreatedside of the membrane osmoses or is pulled to the treated side by the lower TDS, more agressive RO water trying to get back to its natuural "dirty" state. It has been stripped of most of its ions and does not like that. "Flush Kits" that you see on the market only bypass the flow restrictor which is in the waste line and does nothing for this so are a waste of money in 99.9% of all situations.
Yes. That valve can serev several purposes, one is as you say for obtaining RO only water for drinking etc., another is for flushing out TDS creep and a third is a place to test the RO only TDS when troubleshooting the system and calculating your rejection rate. Many people overlook the RO only TDS when in fact the RO membrane does 90-98% of the work. That TDS is more important than the final RO/DI TDS since it is one of the factors in determining your DI resin lifespan. When you monitor the RO only TDS you can easily estimate and predict your DI life and replacement schedule.