Securing CSL pipes going into the tank

skeety · 04-11-2005, 11:14 AM

OKay...finished my CSL.

But have a few questions:

1. What's the best way to secure the plumbing in the tank? Meaning, my pipes hang over the back...and the pipe going into the tank moves a bit. I'm afraid when turned on, the pressure will push the pipe back against the glass too hard.
For those with CSL's, how did you secure your plumbing and make sure it didn't move?

I was thinking about the suction clips that most of us have on our heaters. But I'd need them to go around 1" pipe. Do they have anything like this? If so, can someone point me to a place I could get them?

2. I'm using ball-valves that unscrew...so if I have to clean the pump, I don't have to remove all the plumbing. Just unscrew, and the pipe disconnects.
My question is...should I use PVC tape around the threading for this? If so, I'd have to re-tape it every time I unscrew it. Or are these things made such that I don't have to worry about that?

3. For those of you who've used Flex-PVC. Do I use PVC glue when connecting to the nozzle connectors? I had a hard enough time getting the nozzle in the flex PVC. (About 20 minutes of turning, pushing, cussing, etc). The glue would have dried before I got it in all the way. Right now I have those screw to tighten clips on there. Is that sufficient?

and 4. For intake, I kind of use a spray-bar type design. Can't find plastic strainer caps anywhere, so I just took a 14" PVC tube, and drilled 20 1/4" holes. My pump is 1650gph. Is this enough holes? are they wide enough? What's the risk if they aren't? Just won't get my gph rating? or will I burn out the pump?

ANY help on any of these questions would be appreciated. Want to make sure all is good before actually turning on the pump!

DAC · 04-11-2005, 11:34 AM

Quote:

. I'm using ball-valves that unscrew...so if I have to clean the pump, I don't have to remove all the plumbing. Just unscrew, and the pipe disconnects.
My question is...should I use PVC tape around the threading for this? If so, I'd have to re-tape it every time I unscrew it. Or are these things made such that I don't have to worry about that?

depends did you use ball valves with unions or just threaded ball valves? If you used thread ball valves you will have to retape each time you remove. if you used pvc from pump to take, you will not be able to unscrew the threaded pipe.. as the other end wont be able to turn. IF you used ball valves with unions you dont need to tape at all. /THe union will have an O ring on the inside just make sure it is clean each time you reconnect.

Quote:

3. For those of you who've used Flex-PVC. Do I use PVC glue when connecting to the nozzle connectors? I had a hard enough time getting the nozzle in the flex PVC. (About 20 minutes of turning, pushing, cussing, etc). The glue would have dried before I got it in all the way. Right now I have those screw to tighten clips on there. Is that sufficient

not a 100% want you mean by nozzle connector.
If it is FLEX PVC then you do not and should not use the any nozzle connector, just glue the flex directly into the pvc fitting. use primer and let dry then a good pvc glue. and let dry for a few minutes before moving the flex. In my experience If i try to move the flex b4 it is dry it sometiems weakens the glue and have had the flex "pop out" of the fitting before.

Geoff · 04-11-2005, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skeety

OKay...finished my CSL.

But have a few questions:

1. What's the best way to secure the plumbing in the tank? Meaning, my pipes hang over the back...and the pipe going into the tank moves a bit. I'm afraid when turned on, the pressure will push the pipe back against the glass too hard.
For those with CSL's, how did you secure your plumbing and make sure it didn't move?

I was thinking about the suction clips that most of us have on our heaters. But I'd need them to go around 1" pipe. Do they have anything like this? If so, can someone point me to a place I could get them?

did not secure mine. the pump on mine is an old Quiet One pump. it is the base and the PVC just goes from it up and over the tank. i put small pieces of neoprene under the PVC to keep the vibrations down.

Quote:

Originally Posted by skeety

2. I'm using ball-valves that unscrew...so if I have to clean the pump, I don't have to remove all the plumbing. Just unscrew, and the pipe disconnects.
My question is...should I use PVC tape around the threading for this? If so, I'd have to re-tape it every time I unscrew it. Or are these things made such that I don't have to worry about that?

this is what unions are for. they are quick releases for PVC. great things to have around any piece of equipment that you may need remove.

Quote:

Originally Posted by skeety

3. For those of you who've used Flex-PVC. Do I use PVC glue when connecting to the nozzle connectors? I had a hard enough time getting the nozzle in the flex PVC. (About 20 minutes of turning, pushing, cussing, etc). The glue would have dried before I got it in all the way. Right now I have those screw to tighten clips on there. Is that sufficient?

it should have been the same size as standard PVC pipe. you can use the same glue also for glueing into the fitings.

Quote:

Originally Posted by skeety

and 4. For intake, I kind of use a spray-bar type design. Can't find plastic strainer caps anywhere, so I just took a 14" PVC tube, and drilled 20 1/4" holes. My pump is 1650gph. Is this enough holes? are they wide enough? What's the risk if they aren't? Just won't get my gph rating? or will I burn out the pump?

that should be fine. if you were to add up all of the surface area of the holes and compare it to size of inlet it will be much greater.

G~

DAC · 04-11-2005, 11:38 AM

http://thereeftank.com/forums/showth...pvc+black+flex
http://thereeftank.com/forums/attach...chmentid=24669

If the second link it what you used for you flex then I would remoce it and glue it like i suggested. THAT IF your flex is actually Pvc and not a tubing. if it is tubing then use the connector.

skeety · 04-11-2005, 12:06 PM

OKay...so it's a union ball-valve (it has the o-ring). SO I should be good.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geoff

it should have been the same size as standard PVC pipe. you can use the same glue also for glueing into the fitings.

So I shouldn't have used these then?

Geoff · 04-11-2005, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skeety

OKay...so it's a union ball-valve (it has the o-ring). SO I should be good.

So I shouldn't have used these then?

correct, you only needed to use a 1" slip to slip coupler to go from the left side of the pic to flex PVC on the right.

G~