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Old 01-02-2008, 08:26 PM   #1
gotnohaylo
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Salifert phosphate eliminator


any one ever use this ?? ive looked on the web trying to find some thing that will get rid of green and red slime its not very bad but i dont like it its been like a month or longer ive done what i was told i changed my sand bed little by litte new sand very pretty i ve done a 25 present water change weekly and still on the same boat ! ive stop feeding my fish as much ive stoped feeding my corals as much this is a 4 year old reef tank with acople different corals and 3 fish ... iam tirred of the slime and green hairs i was thinking about scrubing all that crap off my rocks but alot of corals and my butiful tube worms have grown on the rocks ~!~ i need some info on what should i do or use ..... i went threw this once the first year it was up and it was worce what i used i cant find any more anywere it was a brown filter pad and a powder .........need help.......PHOSPHATE ELIMINATOR ??????????
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Old 01-02-2008, 08:38 PM   #2
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If it were me, I would get a Phosban reactor, and the rawphos stuff,.. It's an FE based phosphate remover and can help if that's your problem,.. there are allot of people that use it, and I'm thinking about doing the same.

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Old 01-02-2008, 09:08 PM   #3
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How old are your light bulbs? If they are getting close to replacement that could have some impact. The other "fix" I read about was to turn off your lighting completely for 3 days. On the 4th day turn on only actinics or supplemental lighting. On the 5th day run you daylights for half their normal time. On the 6th day run them as usual. Just be sure to siphon out as much of the dead algae as possible when you turn the lights back on the first day.

I am battling the same type of issue right now. My GFO (Granular Ferric Oxide), Phosban - rowaphos, arrived today but I am still waiting on my mini-jet 404 pump to run it. Hopefully it will be here tomorrow and then I can start using my new reactor. I am hoping it will work as well as every thing I read says it does.

Good luck in your battle, I feel your pain.
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Old 01-03-2008, 05:53 PM   #4
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<?>


hmmm ........ worryed about turning off my lights for 6 days ~!~ i got a lot of corals that mean alot to me they been thir sence i started this hobby ! last time my lights were off that long it was during katrena and i lost a lot of corals .....iam buying new lights now off ebay they are cheaper thir .. and my lights are about 6 months old .....this phosphate eliminator realy catchs my eyes becouse of things people told me on this web site about phosphates concentrations in rocks and sand... it says it will make the rocks release it and sand was well so it can be skimmed out or filtered out with a phosphate sponge .... wish some one who used this would post !
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Old 01-03-2008, 05:57 PM   #5
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salifert


if any one would like to read on this the web site is www.salifert.com
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Old 01-03-2008, 06:53 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotnohaylo View Post
if any one would like to read on this the web site is www.salifert.com
This company has a pretty good reputation, but I believe this product is a gimmick. Sounds like nothing more than common Kalk or liquid calcium carbonate to me. This is a quote from the site. "Active ingredients: phosphate binders". They would have to tell me a little more about what's in their product before I spent my money on something like that.

Do you have a refuge with algae growing in it?
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Old 01-03-2008, 07:51 PM   #7
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nope guys this is my little tank 37 gallon with a hang on its a marline land with 2 bio wheels and a skimmer also i got a power head in thir about mid level this was my first tank i ever set up 4 years ago my new 125 has one but its not ready to set up and hopefully wont have this problem ........o and the light on this tank are 2 65 watt power compact 2 white 2 blue .......
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Old 01-03-2008, 08:52 PM   #8
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lighting is not the cause of cyano or HA. phosphates are the problem. the lighting you choose can be more in the wheelhouse for certain critters, but unless the phosphates are there the algae/HA will not grow.

if you have been feeding heavily for 4 years than i am thinking your sand bed is full and needs replacement. it sounds like you are starting this. if the LR was sitting on the sand than the LR itself is also likely to be full of phosphates. sounds like it is time for a full tank rebuild. this way you can get the LR up on lifts so that it will not touch the sand. this will allow the bacteria to turgor out the phosphates in the LR. as long as the LR is touching the sand the LR will wick up the phosphates allowing cyano/HA to grow on the LR.

hop on over to The Think Tank forum and read through the Misconceptions and the How to sustain a DSB threads. these should help you to understand what exactly is going on in the system.

also running the skimmer wet will help in pulling out phosphates.

Good Luck,

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Old 01-03-2008, 09:17 PM   #9
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i know a guy that swears that stuff works. he says you will see a difference in days. i had a red slime problem that went away once i got my alkalinity in line. check your parameters. i had a hard time getting my dkh right in this tank, once i did my cyano problems were gone in no time.
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Old 01-03-2008, 09:51 PM   #10
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i know a guy that swears that stuff works. he says you will see a difference in days. i had a red slime problem that went away once i got my alkalinity in line. check your parameters. i had a hard time getting my dkh right in this tank, once i did my cyano problems were gone in no time.
If it works its just a band aid treating symptoms

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff View Post
lighting is not the cause of cyano or HA. phosphates are the problem. the lighting you choose can be more in the wheelhouse for certain critters, but unless the phosphates are there the algae/HA will not grow.

if you have been feeding heavily for 4 years then I am thinking your sand bed is full and needs replacement. it sounds like you are starting this. if the LR was sitting on the sand than the LR itself is also likely to be full of phosphates. sounds like it is time for a full tank rebuild. this way you can get the LR up on lifts so that it will not touch the sand. this will allow the bacteria to turgor out the phosphates in the LR. as long as the LR is touching the sand the LR will wick up the phosphates allowing cyano/HA to grow on the LR.

hop on over to The Think Tank forum and read through the Misconceptions and the How to sustain a DSB threads. these should help you to understand what exactly is going on in the system.

also running the skimmer wet will help in pulling out phosphates.

Good Luck,

G~
I would agree, the sand and live rock is probably saturated with PO4 and thats the root cause of the problems, best course would be to take the time to cook all the rock for the new setup so you don't import problems with the new tank, Good Luck
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Old 01-03-2008, 10:00 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotnohaylo View Post
nope guys this is my little tank 37 gallon with a hang on its a marline land with 2 bio wheels and a skimmer also i got a power head in thir about mid level this was my first tank i ever set up 4 years ago my new 125 has one but its not ready to set up and hopefully wont have this problem ........o and the light on this tank are 2 65 watt power compact 2 white 2 blue .......
If you have a good amount of LR in the tank you can trash the bio wheels. This will cut down on a great deal of the fertilizer in the tank.
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Old 01-05-2008, 08:10 PM   #12
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BRAND NEW .07 oz Red Slime Control by
BLUE LIFE

Red Slime Control will quickly and safely remove the red slime (Cyano bacteria) from your aquarium without harming any of its inhabitants. In addition, unlike some other products, Red Slime Control will not discolor your aquarium's water. Red Slime Control is safe for all types of Saltwater Aquariums and will not harm any of your fish, corals or other reef invertebrates. Take control of Red Slime before it takes control of your aquarium! This package will treat 400 gallons (1514 liters).

Directions: For best results, siphon out as much red slime algae as possible from your aquarium. Remove a cup of water from your aquarium. Mix 1 level scoop of Red Slime Control in the cup for every 10 gallons (37.9 liters) of water in your aquarium. Dissolve thoroughly and pour solution into the aquarium. In rare cases when there is still live red slime remaining after 5 days, perform a 25% water change and repeat dosage.

Warning: This product is for aquarium use only, not for human consumption. Keep out of reach of children. If overdosed, this product could have some effect on pH and Oxygen levels.

- Reef Safe
- Quick and Effective
- Will not discolor water
- Veterinarian Approved

i was looking around on e bay i found this lol .............any one ever heard of it ?
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Old 01-05-2008, 08:32 PM   #13
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I saw a thread that they used a product called SAT.But there again I agree I think it's only a bandaid.
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Old 01-05-2008, 08:33 PM   #14
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There are several brands of this type of medication. While it may kill off most of the bacteria, if the problem is not fixed it will just come right back. The only way to truly remove red slime for good is to remove the nutrients it feeds on and to keep these nutrients from building up again.
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Old 01-05-2008, 08:48 PM   #15
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heard that !
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bio wheel , bio wheels , cyano bacteria , filter pad , phosban reactor , phosphate remover , phosphate sponge , power head , red slime , red slime algae , reef invertebrates , slime algae , tube worm , tube worms



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