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Old 03-28-2007, 11:26 AM   #31
Big B
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I use the Mag 12 as a return from my sump on the floor to the top of my tank. (About 5 feet) To tell the truth, I have never cared what the gph is. My tank drains into a 55 fuge and then into my 29 sump. I am getting the amount of flow I am happy with. The return goes over the top of the back of my tank where I use a "T" to split into 2 returns. I also have a sequence pump rated at 3600 gph on a closed loop for additional flow.

I hope this helps.
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Old 03-28-2007, 05:28 PM   #32
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Geoff... LOL I am like a runaway train....sorry!

I fully understand now that it will only be whatever the height is times 1, no matter how many returns I have...so it will be somewhere in the 5-6 foot range... BUT the returns are drilled into the bottom of the tank, so I will have to split the line under the tank, won't I??? So what I am thinking is ...use the mag 12...run it straight up for about a foot from the pump..., then split to the 2 returns for about 1 1/2 feet both ways under the tank with a T, then up the 2 durso returns for about 1 1/2 feet each.....and VOILA!!! back into the tank...is this doable...any othe way to do it...?? The returns are only 3/4", so when I T off the 3/4 inch T seems kindof tight...I am using flexible tubing, so it is a flexible tubing T....

ok, give me your ideas...

Thanks for all you help!
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Old 03-29-2007, 12:26 AM   #33
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bump...
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Old 03-29-2007, 12:37 AM   #34
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Geoff, did you abandon me??
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180 gallon AGA RR mixed reef inwall, 100 gallon rubbermaid stock tank sump, 10 gallon hex fuge, Quiet one 5000 return pump, PCI PS-3000 skimmer with Octopus needlewheel pump, 72" Constellation from Aquactinics, 2 Triton Aquatics GS2 maxijet mods, 2 250 watt heaters, 200 lbs live rock, 200 lbs pulverized limestone
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Old 03-29-2007, 12:40 AM   #35
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So what I am thinking is ...use the mag 12...run it straight up for about a foot from the pump..., then split to the 2 returns for about 1 1/2 feet both ways under the tank with a T, then up the 2 durso returns for about 1 1/2 feet each.....and VOILA!!! back into the tank...is this doable...any othe way to do it...?? The returns are only 3/4", so when I T off the 3/4 inch T seems kindof tight...I am using flexible tubing, so it is a flexible tubing T....

dont T the split returns off of a 3/4" T......that will kill some flow

Use a 1" T, with 3/4" reducing bushings in it.

1" all the way to the pump with another 3/4" reducing bushing to fit the pump.

You can make the mag pump easily removable there at the pump by using a 1" coupler with the 3/4" reducing fitting to connect to the pump like i just said........then just friction fit the pipe into the other end of the coupler.......as long as that coupler remains under water, and the friction fit is tight, it wont give you any air bubbles or leak enough to matter......thats how i connect my mag 12 on my 90
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Last edited by Fly Guy; 03-29-2007 at 12:47 AM.
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Old 03-29-2007, 01:00 AM   #36
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But the retrun bulkheads are 3/4 also....with 3/4 inch PVC return pipes into the tank over the overflow. this is a AGA RR, with the dual overflow durso pipe things. thats why I was using all 3/4" stuff.... 3/4" fitting on the mag 12 and 3/4" returns. just made it seem easier
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Old 03-29-2007, 01:02 AM   #37
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You said you were going to split them before going into your 3/4" bulkheads with a 3/4" T...........just use 1" from the pump into a 1" T, then 3/4" from there to your bulkheads............

That will help your flow rate to each 3/4" line

unless i misunderstood what you were saying.........
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Old 03-29-2007, 01:08 AM   #38
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no you understood, I am just retarded at this plumbing stuff...but what I don't get is this...if the fitting size on the mag 12 is 3/4" then how do I run 1" from there??? Thats where the reducing bushing comes in right???... use a 3/4" X 1" bushing, right...then use flexible tubing , have a 1" T,then 2 1" X 3/4 reducing bushings on the T and continue on to the 3/4" bulkheads....
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Old 03-29-2007, 01:13 AM   #39
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no you understood, I am just retarded at this plumbing stuff...but what I don't get is this...if the fitting size on the mag 12 is 3/4" then how do I run 1" from there??? Thats where the reducing bushing comes in right???... use a 3/4" X 1" bushing, right...then use flexible tubing , have a 1" T,then 2 1" X 3/4 reducing bushings on the T and continue on to the 3/4" bulkheads....
You got it.....although.........i should have said 3/4" FPT(female pipe thread) reducing bushing goes into that coupler, as it needs to thread onto the pump

another thing that would be good if you didnt want to deal with that friction fit stuff i was talking about before to make the pump removable......is to put a 1" union directly on top of that coupler connected to the pump with the 3/4" FPT reducing bushing.....so the pump can come out for maintenance........
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Old 03-29-2007, 01:23 AM   #40
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so I can do all of this with felxible tubing?? what are those reducing parts called when they are for the flexible stuff? yeah i was going to do the union thing to be able to take the pump out and clean it....
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Old 03-29-2007, 01:27 AM   #41
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so I can do all of this with felxible tubing?? what are those reducing parts called when they are for the flexible stuff? yeah i was going to do the union thing to be able to take the pump out and clean it....
By flexible do you mean flexible pvc?? the white stuff?? If so, its the same as hard as far as connections go.

If you are talking about the clear vinyl...........toss it and get the flexible PVC.
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Old 03-29-2007, 01:33 AM   #42
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lol
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Old 03-29-2007, 10:36 AM   #43
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Fly's got you covered.

the smaller the pipe the more friction in the pipe for the water. more friction equals more head pressure. whenever possible you want to make the plumbing as big as possible for as long as possible. helps keep the total head on the pump down. if the plumbing is done bad enough you can actually have more head pressure due to plumbing than vertical lift.

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Old 03-29-2007, 05:49 PM   #44
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ok have to digest all of this and see what I come up with....wouldn't it be easier to use the quiet one 5000 I have that has 1" fittings and then just reduce right before the bulkheads??
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Old 03-29-2007, 07:55 PM   #45
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ok have to digest all of this and see what I come up with....wouldn't it be easier to use the quiet one 5000 I have that has 1" fittings and then just reduce right before the bulkheads??
It would save you from having to glue a few reducing bushings is all. Not really all that much much easier.

One thing i dont think we hae mentioned here is that regardless of which pump you go with, you should put a ball valve right above the union next to the pump. You may never even need it, but in case you do its there.
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