reef MSDS and instructions

[tims]

Aquarium Pharmaceuticals GH/KH Test Kit

Directions for Testing Carbonate Hardness (KH):

• Read thoroughly before testing. Do not allow Test Solutions to get into aquarium.
• Remove childproof safety cap using one hand to push red tab while unscrewing cap with free hand.
• Rinse a clean test tube with water to be tested.
• Fill the test tube with 5 ml of aquarium water (to the line on the test tube).
• Add Carbonate Hardness Test Solution, one drop at a time. Hold dropper bottle upside down in a completely vertical position to ensure uniform drops. After first drop is added, solution will turn blue (If the water sample contains only 1°dKH, the solution will turn from clear to its yellow endpoint after the first drop is added).
• Cap the test tube and invert several times after each drop. Count the number of drops being added. Do not hold finger over open end of the tube, as this may affect the test results.
• The test is completed when the water in the test tube, after having been shaken, turns from blue to yellow. If you have difficulty discerning the color after the first drop of test solution is added, remove the cap from the test tube and while holding it over a white background, look down through the tube.
• The Carbonate Hardness value is determined by the number of drops of the reagent that must be added to turn the water in the test tube bright yellow. Each drop is equal to 1 °dKH or 17.9 ppm KH.

Directions for Testing General Hardness (GH):

• Read thoroughly before testing. Do not allow Test Solutions to get into aquarium.
• Remove childproof safety cap using one hand to push red tab left while unscrewing cap with free hand.
• Rinse a clean test tube with water to be tested.
• Fill the test tube with 5 ml of aquarium water (to the line on the test tube).
• Add General Hardness Test Solution, one drop at a time. Hold dropper bottle upside down in a completely vertical position to ensure uniform drops. After first drop is added, solution will turn orange (If the water sample contains only 1°dGH, the solution will turn from clear to its green endpoint after the first drop is added).
• Cap the test tube and invert several times after each drop. Keep count of the drops being added. Do not hold finger over open end of the tube, as this may affect the test results.
• The test is completed when the water in the test tube, after having been shaken, turns from orange to green. If you have difficulty discerning the color after the first drop of test solution is added, remove the cap from the test tube and while holding it over a white background, look down through the tube.
• The number of drops of the reagent that must be added to turn the water in the test tube green determines the General Hardness value. Each drop is equal to 1 °dGH or 17.9 ppm GH.

General lnformation
What is Carbonate Hardness (KH)?
Carbonate hardness (also known as alkalinity) is the measure of carbonate (CO32-) and bicarbonate (HCO3-) ion concentrations dissolved in water. These minerals are present in municipal, well, and bottled spring water. The level of carbonate hardness in tap and bottled water depends on the source of the water and the treatment processes it has undergone. Carbonate hardness helps stabilize pH in the aquarium. An aquarium with a low KH level (50 ppm or less) will tend to be acidic. Aquariums with very low KH are subject to rapid pH shifts, if not monitored carefully. Water with a high KH level (= 200 ppm) usually has a high pH. The Aquarium Pharmaceuticals KH (Carbonate Hardness) Test measures KH in German degrees (°dKH). To convert °dKH to parts per million (ppm), multiply °dKH x 17.9. What is General Hardness (GH)?
General hardness is the measure of calcium (Ca2+) and magnesium (Mg2+) ion concentrations dissolved in water. These minerals are present in municipal, well, and bottled spring water. The level of general hardness in tap and bottled water depends on the source of the water and the treatment processes it has undergone. Hard water (= 200 ppm) is high in calcium and magnesium, while soft water (50 to 100 ppm) is low in these minerals. The Aquarium Pharmaceuticals GH (General Hardness) Test measures GH in German degrees (°dGH). To convert °dGH to parts per million (ppm), multiply °dGH x 17.9.

[tims]

Red Sea Test Lab Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate Test Kits

Introduction to the Nitrification Process
As fish digest their food they produce ammonia as a waste product. In solution the total dissolved ammonia changes between two forms, the toxic ammonia (NH3) and the relatively harmless ammonium ions (NH4+) according to the pH and temperature of the water.
If no measures are taken, the toxic ammonia will rapidly increase to lethal levels in the limited volume of the aquarium. Bacteria of the genus Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter oxidize ammonia through nitrite (almost as toxic as ammonia) to nitrate (which is nontoxic to fish). This oxidation is known as the nitrification process. The application of bacteria in water treatment is called biological filtration (bio-filtration). In an aquarium with a mature bio-filter, the ammonia (NH3) is quickly converted into nitrite (NO2), which is thereafter converted into nitrate (N03).
Nitrate is relatively harmless to freshwater fish, although high concentrations will promote algae growth in the aquarium. If a de-nitrification filter is not used, the nitrate concentration can be kept within reasonable limits by regular water changes. The Nitrate level can be monitored using Red Sea's Nitrate Mini-Lab Test (item #27323).
Ammonia
As fish digest their food, and as bacteria break down uneaten fish food and other organic matter, ammonia is set free into the aquarium water.
In solution, the total dissolved ammonia changes between 2 forms, the toxic ammonia (NH3) and the less harmful ammonium ions (NH4) according to the pH and temperature of the water.
A percentage of the ammonium ions change as the pH increases, to the more toxic ammonia. Consequently, in marine aquariums with pH 8.1-8.4, ammonia will present a more serious problem than in freshwater tanks with pH around 7, since more toxic ammonia as low as 0.01 ppm, already show negative effects on fish, while 0.1 ppm can be deadly to some species.
When to Test for Ammonia?
New Aquariums
In a newly set up aquarium high levels of ammonia followed by high levels of nitrite is a normal phenomenon. As the new aquarium and the filter develop, nitrifying bacteria begin to break down the toxic ammonia to a safe level, however, it takes slightly longer for the bacteria to develop in sufficient quantities to transform the nitrite into nitrate. Regular daily testing of the ammonia and nitrite is very important in a newly set up aquarium for the first two to four weeks. Only this will tell you when your bio-filter is mature and when it will be safe to put (more) fish into your aquarium.
Established Aquariums
Even low ammonia levels stress and weaken the fish, which makes them more susceptible to parasitic infections such as Ich. Ammonia poisoning is usually displayed by acute symptoms of fish swimming very rapidly, as in a panic; or breathing very rapidly; or jumping out of the water. The chronic symptoms are gill and skin damage and sometimes color fading. At the first sign of any of these symptoms test for ammonia. Ammonia levels may rise in older aquariums when the filter substrate has been damaged; for example, after administration of a medicine. Also, a blocked or fouled filter, as well as decaying matter in the tank, may give rise to toxic ammonia levels.
Nitrite should be tested when a malfunctioning biological filter is suspected. After a long period of time, the filter can get dirty, causing an oxygen shortage leading to high nitrite levels.
Recommendations
The toxic ammonia level in an established aquarium can be lowered by reducing feeding to an absolute minimum. Remove any decaying material and, if possible, as many of the fish as you can. If a blocked or fouled filter is the suspected problem, the majority of the filter material should be removed and cleaned allowing a new population of bacteria to grow. Since the filter must re-mature, we also advise that you monitor the nitrite level.
Note: When making water changes, ensure that the new water has a lower pH than the aquarium water. If the replacement water has a higher pH, the overall effect could be to increase the concentration of toxic ammonia (NH3).
Directions for Ammonia Test Lab

1. Check and write down pH and temperature of the aquarium water you wish to test.
2. Fill a clean test tube with 3 ml of water to be tested (to the 3 ml line on the tube).
3. Rapidly add 11 drops of Ammonia Reagent A. Immediately close the test tube with the stopper and shake vigorously for 10 seconds.
4. Open the test tube and add 4 drops of Ammonia Reagent B. Close it with the stopper and shake gently for 10 seconds.
5. Open the test tube and add 4 drops of Ammonia Reagent C. Close it with the stopper and shake gently for 10 seconds.
6. Wait 15 minutes for the color to fully develop.
7. Compare the color with the color scale by holding the test tube in a vertical position, 8" from a white background.
8. Read off the ppm value of the color that is closest to the sample in the test tube. This is a measure of the total dissolved ammonia level.
9. Use the table on the directions that come with the test kit to calculate the level of toxic ammonia. For marine aquariums, and reading of 0.25 ppm of total ammonia indicates a toxic level.
10. Rinse the test tube with clean water after each use.

Introduction to Nitrite
As fish digest their food, and as bacteria break down uneaten fish food and other organic matter, ammonia is set free into the aquarium water.
New Aquariums
In a newly set up aquarium a high nitrite level is a normal phenomenon. It means that the nitrosomonas bacteria have started the nitrification process and produce nitrite out of ammonia. Nitrobacter is, however, not yet present in sufficient quantities to transform nitrite into nitrate. In a newly set up aquarium, we advise that you test for nitrite daily for at least two weeks.
Only this, together with testing for ammonia (use Red Sea's Ammonia Test Lab, item #27321), will tell you when it is safe to put (more) fish into your aquarium. After this two-week period, especially in the marine aquarium, one should start testing for nitrate, using Red Sea's Nitrate Test Lab (item #27323).
Established Aquariums
Nitrite should be tested when there is suspicion of a malfunctioning biological filter. After a long period of time, the filter can get dirty causing an oxygen shortage leading to high nitrite levels. Since in this case toxic ammonia can also be present in the aquarium, it is advisable to test for ammonia, using Red Sea's Ammonia Fresh Test (item #27321).
Directions for Testing Nitrite

1. Fill a clean test tube with 8 ml of water to be tested (to the line on the tube).
2. Add 10 drops of Nitrite Reagent A. Close the test tube with the stopper and shake gently.
3. Open the test tube and add 6 drops of Nitrite Reagent B. Close it with the stopper and shake gently.
4. Wait 1-1/2 to 2 minutes for the color to develop.
5. Open the test tube and look down through the open top of the test tube while holding it 8" above a white background and compare the samples with the color scale.
6. Read off the ppm value of the color that is closest to the sample in the test tube.
7. Rinse the test tube with clean water after each use.

Recommendations
A concentration as low as 0.1 ppm is already harmful to many marine invertebrates. Concentrations above 0.3 ppm are harmful for marine and freshwater fish. A typical behavioral symptom of acute nitrite poisoning is listlessness of the fish.
Lower nitrite levels stress and weaken the fish, making them susceptible to parasitic infections such as white spot.
The immediate short-term measure should be to change 20% of the aquarium water every day.
For the marine aquarium, we advise changing the water using Red Sea's Red Sea Salt (item #159683), until the NO2 level drops below 0.2 ppm. Red Sea Salt is especially useful in emergency situations like this, since it can safely be used immediately after dissolving, the pH and alkalinity being at the natural level. At the same time, we recommend to remove fish if possible, reduce feeding, clean the filter and inoculate it with some fresh material out of a good working biological filter, or use a freeze-dried bacteria preparation.
A value of 2 ppm is already very bad for any aquarium. Should you, however, require an accurate reading of a nitrite level higher than the range of this test:
(2 ppm), you should dilute the sample as follows:

1. Mix 2 ml water sample with 6 ml distilled water.
2. Perform the test as above.
3. Multiply the result by 4.

Nitrate
Introduction to Nitrate
Ammonia produced by fish as a waste product is oxidized by aerobic bacteria in the biological filter, first to nitrite (NO2) and further to nitrate (NO3). In nature, a complete nitrogen cycle exists where plants utilize nitrate as a food source, thus maintaining the very low nitrate level found in unpolluted water.
In the aquarium, we create a one-way system rather than a nutrient cycle. The plant growth is mostly insufficient to use up all the nitrate introduced by the fish food. In most aquariums, especially in marine aquariums, nitrate will slowly accumulate so that unnaturally high concentrations are reached.
In the reef aquarium, corals and other invertebrates react distressfully to high nitrate levels and will eventually die. Nitrate will also act as a nutrient for plants that we do not desire. High nitrate levels cause the development of blue-green algae and hair algae. Fish may eventually become stressed and weakened by the NO3 pollution, which makes them more susceptible to parasitic infections. The nitrate concentrations should be tested every week. This is especially important in the marine aquarium.

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part 2


Directions for Testing Nitrate

1. Fill a clean test tube with 5 ml of water to be tested (to the line on the tube).
2. Vigorously shake the Nitrate Reagent A for at least 30 seconds and then add 5 drops to the test tube.
3. Add 5 drops of Reagent B.
4. Add 8 drops of Reagent C.
5. Cap the test tube and shake gently for one minute.
6. Wait 5 minutes for the color to develop, shake again.
7. Compare the color with the color scale by holding the test tube in a vertical position, about 2" from a white background.
8. Read off the ppm value on the right hand LOW RANGE side of he color scale that is closest to the sample in the test tube
9. Rinse the test tube with clean water after each use.

Monitoring Nitrate Levels
Regular testing for nitrate is an essential part of routine aquarium maintenance. Aquarium water should be tested for nitrate once a week to make sure the nitrate does not reach an undesirable level.

[tims]

Red Sea Test Labs pH and Alkaline Tests

Introduction to pH & Alkalinity
The pH is a very important parameter in the biology of aquatic organisms. It is a measure of the acidity or basicity of the water. The scale runs from zero to 14. Zero is the most acidic, 7 is neutral and 14 is the most basic. A change of 1 pH unit, for example from 7 to 6, means that the water gets 10 times more acidic.
Due to its chemistry, water is able to absorb a certain amount of acidic matter without a resulting change in pH. The substances in the water that do this are called buffers. The ability of water to withstand changes in pH is called buffer capacity. In some of the literature alkalinity is termed "Carbonate Hardness" or " KH Carbonate Buffer." This is exactly the same measurement as is measured in the Red Sea Mini-Lab Alkalinity Test.
To maintain a correct and stable pH, check the pH and alkalinity weekly.
Directions for Tests
pH Test

• Clean a test tube by rinsing it with the water to be tested.
• Fill the test tube to the 6 ml mark with water to be tested.
• Add 3 drops of pH (7.4-8.6) indicator, close the test tube with the stopper, and shake gently for 10 seconds.
• Compare the color with the color scale by holding the test tube in a vertical position, 8" from a white background.
• Read off the pH value of the color that is most similar to the sample in the test tube.
• Clean the test tube and stopper with tap water.

Alkalinity Test

• Clean a test tube by rinsing it with the water to be tested.
• Fill the test tube to the 10 ml mark with water to be tested.
• Add 5 drops of alkalinity indicator.
• Close the test tube with the stopper, and shake gently for 10 seconds.
• Open the test tube. Look down through the open top of the test tube, while holding it 8" from a white background.
• Read off the alkalinity level value of the color that is most similar to the sample in the test tube.
• Clean the test tube and stopper with tap water.

[tims]

Red Sea Test Labs Master Reef Lab


Nitrate
Why Test For Nitrate?
Nitrate (NO3-) is produced in the aquarium by the biological filter. Beneficial bacteria in the biological filter convert toxic ammonia and nitrite into nitrate. A high nitrate level indicates a buildup of fish waste and organic compounds, resulting in poor water quality and contributing to the likelihood of fish disease. Excessive nitrate also provides a nitrogen source that can stimulate algal blooms. In the opinion of many aquarists, maintaining a low nitrate level improves the health of fish and invertebrates.
Nitrate Test Instructions

1. Fill a clean test tube with 5 ml of water to be tested (to the line on the tube).
2. Vigorously shake the Nitrate Reagent A for at least 30 seconds and then add 5 drops to the test tube.
3. Then add 5 drops of Reagent B.
4. Then add 8 drops of Reagent C.
5. Cap the test tube and shake gently for one minute.
6. Wait 5 minutes for the color to develop, shake again.
7. Compare the color with the color scale by holding the test tube in a vertical position, about 2" from a white background.
8. Read off the ppm value on the right hand LOW RANGE side of he color scale that is closest to the sample in the test tube.
9. Rinse the test tube with clean water after each use.

Phosphate
Phosphate is regularly introduced into the aquarium through fish waste and the decomposition of fish food. While nontoxic for fish, high phosphate levels will promote the growth of undesirable algae, which will compete with more delicate marine animals and adversely affecting the appearance of your aquarium. Excess phosphate is removed by partial water changes with phosphate-free water. Regular testing for phosphate will guide you as to when these essential water changes should be made.
Why Test for Phosphate?
Phosphate enters your aquarium fish and invertebrate waste, and decaying organic matter, such as dead algae or uneaten fish food. Water treatment facilities may add phosphate to tap water to prevent pipe corrosion and reduce concentrations of heavy metals in drinking water. Unnecessary phosphate may cause an undesirable cloud or tint in aquarium water. In saltwater aquariums, phosphate precipitates dissolved calcium and magnesium ions, inhibiting the growth of hard corals and other reef-building organisms.
Phosphate Test Instructions

1. Fill the test tube with 5 ml of water to be tested (to the line on the test tube).
2. Add 6 drops from Phosphate Test Solution Bottle #1 to the test tube, holding dropper bottle upside down in a completely vertical position to ensure uniformity of drops.
3. Cap the test tube and vigorously shake the tube for 5 seconds. Do not hold finger over open end of the tube as this may affect the test result.
4. Add 6 drops from Phosphate Test Solution Bottle #2 to the test tube, holding dropper bottle upside down in a completely vertical position to ensure uniformity of drops. Bottle #2 has a very thick solution and may require increased pressure while squeezing to release drops.
5. Cap the test tube and vigorously shake the tube for 5 seconds. Do not hold finger over open end of the tube as this may affect the test result.
6. Wait 3 minutes for the color to develop.
7. Remove the cap from the test tube and while holding it over a white background on the test strip (included), compare the color of the sample with the colors on the test strip.

Calcium
Calcium is an essential component in the skeletons of corals and, therefore, is constantly depleted from the aquarium. To promote healthy coral growth a natural level of calcium must be maintained. Test weekly.
Why Test for Calcium?
Monitoring calcium levels is essential for keeping a successful reef aquarium. Reef organisms use calcium to build a calcium carbonate skeleton. Over time, as the calcium in the water is utilized, the calcium level will gradually drop. Calcium must be present for corals to grow. Even reef invertebrates such as crustaceans, mollusks, and encrusting algae, require calcium to grow and remain healthy. The calcium level drops as it is used by invertebrates or as it reacts with excess phosphate. Elevated phosphate precipitates calcium, rendering it unavailable to reef organisms. Phosphate enters the aquarium from tap water and as a byproduct of fish and invertebrate metabolism.
Calcium Test Instructions

1. Rinse a clean test tube with water to be tested.
2. Fill the test tube to the line on the test tube with the water being tested.
3. Holding the bottle vertically, add 19 drops of Calcium Test Solution #1 to the test tube, cap the test tube, and shake for 10 seconds.
4. Shake calcium Test Solution #2 bottle vigorously for 10 seconds,
5. Holding the bottle vertically, add Calcium Test Solution #2 drop by drop to the test tube until the solution changes from pink to the blue end-point.
6. Be sure to count the drops added.
   • A pink color should form after the first drop.
   • If a blue color forms after the first drop, the calcium concentration is 20 mg/L or below.
7. As the end point is approached, the color will usually change from pink to purple before finally changing to blue.

Red Sea Success Supplements
Success Calcium Supplement
In the reef aquarium, a constant high calcium level is required to promote the growth of hard corals. This element should be supplemented regularly since it is used up very fast by the growing corals and the calcareous algae. Success Calcium will not affect pH and alkalinity (buffering capacity) of your aquarium. Just a small amount will raise the calcium level considerably. This product contains only natural components in a balanced composition that will not disturb the anion balance of the seawater, even after prolonged use. Calcium should be supplemented in combination with weekly 10% water changes.
Directions:
Shake well before use.
Use only in aquariums established for a minimum of three months. Make sure the aquarium has sufficient light.
Dosage:
To raise the calcium level by 50 ppm:
Add three teaspoons for each 10 gallons of aquarium water. It is recommended to add this amount over a four day period.
To maintain a stable level of calcium:
Add 1 teaspoon for each 60 gallons of aquarium water, per week.
Success Strontium
Although only a minor trace element in seawater, strontium is essential to the building of calcareous skeletons, shells or corals, mollusks, and many other invertebrates. Strontium is one of the elements constantly extracted from seawater by reef-building organisms and should therefore be added regularly, along with calcium, molybdenum, and trace elements. To maintain and stimulate coral growth, use regularly in conjunction with weekly 10% water changes.
Directions:
Shake well before use:
Do NOT add directly to aquarium. Add correct dosage to fresh water, used to compensate evaporation (top off water), stir, and add gradually to your filter sump. Dosage:
Add 1 teaspoon for each 60 gallons of aquarium water.

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part 2


Success Molybdenum
Molybdenum plays a vital role in the biology of many marine invertebrates, filter bacteria, and seaweed. Among other functions, it is an essential component of certain enzymes produced by the above-mentioned organisms. Regular dosing of this element is vital for the long-term health of the reef aquarium ecosystem. Molybdenum is one of the elements constantly extracted from seawater and should therefore be added regularly, along with calcium, strontium, and trace elements.
To maintain and stimulate coral growth, use regularly in conjunction with weekly 10% water changes.
Directions:
Shake well before use.
Do NOT add directly to aquarium. Add correct dosage to fresh water, used to compensate evaporation (top off water), stir, and add gradually to your filter sump.
Dosage:
Add 1 teaspoon for each 60 gallons of aquarium water per week.
Success Iodine
The trace element iodine plays a very important role in the life cycle of invertebrates (especially soft corals and crustaceans), fish, and seaweed. Iodine is rapidly depleted from aquarium water through protein skimming - and at a faster rate if ozone is applied.
Success Iodine is formulated for weekly use to avoid iodine deficiency in the marine aquarium. Soft corals will show improved growth and optimal extension.
Directions:
Shake well before use.
Dosage:
Add 1 teaspoon for each 60 gallons of aquarium water per week.
Success Trace
The trace elements found in natural seawater play a vital role in the life cycle of both animals and plants. A deficiency of trace elements results in poor growth of invertebrates and macro algae. Success Trace is scientifically formulated for weekly use to replace trace elements used up in the aquarium. Use in conjunction with regular weekly 10% water changes.
Success Trace contains the following: I, Mo, Zn, V, As, Ti, Ni, Cr, Mn, Co, Se, W, Ge, Ag, Bi, Sb, Sn, Nb, Be, Au, In, Y.
Directions: Shake well before use.
Use only in aquariums established for at least 3 months.
Dosage:
Add 1 teaspoon for each 60 gallons of aquarium water per week.
Success Green
Minor and trace elements for marine algae
Success green is a scientifically formulated enrichment solution containing minor and trace elements, iron, and manganese to stimulate and maintain the growth of desirable macro algae like Caulerpa and Halimeda species These algae not only improve the aesthetic aspects of the marine aquarium, they also play an important role in maintaining a stable aquarium ecosystem by removing nitrate and phosphate. These algae also produce oxygen and secrete vitamins into the aquarium water. Success Green does not contain nitrate or phosphate.
Directions: Shake well before use.
Use only in aquariums established for at least three months.
Make sure the aquarium has sufficient light.
Do NOT over dose. Dosage:
Add 1 teaspoon for each 60 gallons of aquarium water per week

[tims]

Instant Ocean Saltwater
ReefMaster Test Kit

pH Test
Range: 7.8 to 8.6
Use: Monitor pH and identify the need for water changes or the addition of buffer to maintain proper pH.
In addition to nitrate, aquarium nitrification (conditioning) also produces acid. The acid depletes buffers and results in steadily decreasing pH levels. If uncorrected, pH levels will fall below the "safe" range of 8.0 to 8.4. The ReefMaster Test Kit monitors pH levels, helping you to maintain an ideal level of 8.1 to 8.3.
Directions for use:

1. Rinse test chamber with water to be tested. Fill test chamber to "Water Line."
2. Empty one foil test packet into test chamber.
3. Cap and shake until dissolved.
4. Compare prepared sample to pH color chip (purple).
5. Clean cap and sample tester with fresh water.

Nitrate Test
Range: 0 to 100 milligrams/liter Nitrate-Nitrogen (NO-₃-N)
Use: Monitor general water quality in conditioned aquariums.
Though not significantly toxic, nitrate does accumulate in the aquarium at a rate proportional to the biological load of the system. Nitrate can prove harmful to corals and invertebrates. The ReefMaster Test Kit provides a means to keep track of general water quality in your reef aquarium.
Directions for use:

1. Rinse test chamber with water to be tested. Fill test chamber to "Water Line."
2. Empty one foil test packet into test chamber.
3. Cap and shake vigorously for one minute. Note: Small amount of test chemical will not dissolve initially. This is normal.
4. Wait 3 minutes. Compare the nitrate color chip (brown).
5. Clean cap and sample tester with fresh water.

Alkalinity Test
Range: 0 to 5.0 milliequivalents/liter
Use: Measure the alkalinity and or buffer levels in a marine aquarium.
There are three main causes of alkalinity decline in the marine aquarium. 1) During nitrification, toxic ammonia (the result of the breakdown of food and waste) is biologically converted to harmless nitrate and produces an acid. The acid reacts with carbonate/bicarbonate ions, resulting in the gradual loss of buffering capacity and decline in pH. 2) When certain substrate (e.g., crushed coral or dolomite) is first added to an aquarium, it tends to precipitate carbonate/bicarbonate ions from the water, which may cause a sudden and significant drop in alkalinity and pH. 3) Live corals and coralline algae remove carbonate ions and combine them with calcium ions to form the hard skeletal structures.
In all three cases, a 25-30% water change or the addition of buffer/alkalinity will stabilize levels and ensure a buffer level adequate for maintaining a thriving marine aquarium.
Recommended Alkalinity Levels:
Fish-Only Marine Aquariums: 2.5 to 4.0 mEq/L; Reef Aquariums: 3.5 to 4.5 mEq/L

If the alkalinity level tests above 2.5 and ph is low, check for excessive carbon dioxide buildup. Transfer one gallon of aquarium water to a bucket and aerate vigorously for 12-18 hours. Then compare aquarium pH to the aerated sample pH. If the sample pH is higher than the aquarium pH, excess carbon dioxide is accumulating in the aquarium.
To correct: Increase aquarium aeration or decrease biological load.
Use of a calcium reactor may also cause low pH. When carbon dioxide is used to dissolve calcium carbonate in aquarium water, the residual carbon dioxide can lower pH. An inappropriately adjusted calcium reactor can lower pH even further.
To correct: 1) Make sure your calcium reactor is properly adjusted. 2) Increase aquarium aeration with a two-stage reactor or decrease biological load.
Directions for use:
Standard Test - Routine Monitoring

1. Fill small measuring vial with water to be tested.
2. Pour into larger Titration Vial.
3. Holding Titration bottle upside down in a vertical position, add Reagent - one drop at a time to Titration Vial and swirl to mix. Initial color should be blue. Note: If initial color is yellow, empty vial and follow Precision Test Guidelines.
4. Count the number of drops until sample color turns yellow-green.
5. Divide number of total drops by 2 to obtain milliequivalents per liter (mEq/L) of alkalinity.

Precision Test

1. Fill small Measuring Vial with water to be tested.
2. Pour into larger Titration Vial. Repeat process.
3. Add Reagent - one drop at a time to Titration Vial. Swirl to mix.
4. Count the number of drops until sample color turns yellow-green.
5. Divide the number of drops by 4 to obtain milliequivalents per liter (mEq/L) of alkalinity.

Alkalinity mEq/L	Multiplier	Unit of Measure
mEq/L	X 50	= Parts per Million (ppm) CaCO3
mEq/L	X 2.8	= German Degrees Carbonate Hardness (ºDKH)
mEq/L	X 3.5	= English Degrees Carbonate Hardness
mEq/L	X 5.0	= French Degrees Carbonate Hardness
mEq/L	X 2.92	= Gains per Gallon CaCO3

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part 2

Calcium Test
Range: 0 to 500 milligrams/liter Calcium (Ca)
Use: Monitor calcium levels in reef or invertebrate aquariums or to determine the need for water changes and/or supplements. Suggested level for optimal growth: 350 mg/l to 500 mg/l.
Calcium is extremely important to the successful growth of delicate corals and invertebrates in a reef aquarium. However, it can be easily depleted by chemical and biological processes and must be carefully monitored on a regular basis. The ReefMaster Test Kit enables reef aquarists to monitor and supplement vital calcium when necessary.

1. Rinse and fill small Measuring Vial with water to be tested.
2. Pour into larger Titration Vial.
3. Fill Dropper to scored mark with Liquid Calcium Reagent #1. Add Dropper contents to larger Titration Vial. Swirl to mix.
4. Empty packet of Granular Calcium Reagent #2 into Titration Vial. Swirl to mix.
5. Add Titration Calcium Reagent #3 - one drop at a time to the Titration Vial. Swirl to mix after each drop. Count the number of drops until sample color turns blue.
6. Multiply the number of drops by 15 to obtain the mg/l of calcium.

Phosphate Test
Range: 0 to 1.0 and 0 to 5.0 milligrams/liter Phosphate (PO₄3-)
Use: Monitor phosphate levels in reef aquariums and replacement water.
Phosphate is a primary nutrient found in reef aquariums. Potentially harmful to corals and invertebrates, it can interfere with calcium deposition in corals and often encourages the growth of hair algae and red or black slime algae. The ReefMaster Test Kit provides a means to monitor and maintain the low phosphate levels critical to success in a living reef environment.
Low-Range Test

1. Rinse test chamber with water to be tested. Fill test chamber to TOP line.
2. Empty one foil test packet into test chamber. Cap and shake to dissolve.
3. Wait 3 minutes. Compare sample to phosphate color chip (blue).
4. Clean cap and sample tester with fresh water.

High-Range Test

1. Rinse test chamber with water to be tested. Fill test chamber to BOTTOM line.
2. Fill remainder of test chamber with distilled or de-ionized water Note: Reverse-Osmosis water (reeds zero phosphate) may also be used.
3. Empty one foil test packet into test chamber. Cap and shake to dissolve.
4. Wait 3 minutes. Compare sample to phosphate color chip (blue).
5. Multiply reading by 5 to get actual phosphate concentration.
6. Clean cap and sample tester with fresh water.* *Do Not clean with soap containing phosphate. This will invalidate future tests.

Tips for Best Test Results

• Always view test sample and color chip against a white background illuminated by natural or fluorescent light.
• Always store test kit (Color-Chip Comparator and Sample Tester) away from light.

[tims]

Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Copper Test Kit

Importance of Testing for Copper
Copper is often used to treat many parasitic infections in fresh and saltwater fish. To be effective, the copper concentration in the aquarium must be maintained at the therapeutic level for several weeks. Frequent testing is required to monitor the copper level in the aquarium. Some fish species are very sensitive to copper treatments. Therefore, follow the copper treatment manufacturer's directions carefully.
Copper should not be used or be evident in aquariums with invertebrates, including snails, shrimp, crayfish and corals, as well as in freshwater aquariums or ponds with plants. Tap water may contain copper leached from pipes and, ultimately, it can accumulate in the aquarium.
Directions for Use:
This kit reads total copper level in parts per million (ppm). This kit works in both freshwater and saltwater aquariums.
Read thoroughly before testing. Do not allow test solution to get into aquarium.
To remove childproof safety cap: With one hand, push red tab left with thumb while unscrewing cap with free hand.

1. Fill the test tube with 5 ml of water to be tested (to the line on the test tube).
2. Add 10 drops of copper test solution, one drop at a time, holding dropper bottle upside down in a completely vertical position to ensure uniformity of drops.
3. Cap the test tube and shake the tube for 5 seconds. Keep count of the drops being added. Do not hold finger over open end of the tube as this may affect the test result.
4. Wait one minute for the color to develop.
5. Remove the cap from the test tube and while holding it over a white background on the test strip (included) compare the color of the sample with the colors on the test strip. Even a very faint color indicates the presence of copper.

[tims]

all of the these are now in the Emergency Info, MSDS and instruction manuals.

[OneDummHikk]

Thanks tim!

[tims]

your welcome Randy,

remember gang, have info on your stuff, or need to find some info, post it here, we will try to find the correct info for ya or if it is posted i will move it to permanent area

[tims]

there are the instructions for the SCWD
SCWD= Switching Current Water Device


Installation:
There are many ways to install you new SCWD. The following instructions reflect the preferred method of installation. In addition, even though your new SCWD is not overly sensitive to the normal particulate and debris found in aquarium systems, to ensure long life, water must be filtered prior to entering the SCWD.

1. Measure and cut two pieces of 3/4" (ID) hose for the two outlets. For best results, it is strongly recommended that both outlet hoses are cut equal in length, leaving the SCWD centered between the two outlets.
2. Measure and cut one piece of 3/4" (ID) hose that will be connected to the water pump, canister filter, or powerhead outlet at one end and the SCWD inlet on the other. It is recommended that an inline valve be installed between the water pump and the SCWD to allow for flow adjustment, and for ease of removal and cleaning of the outlet hoses if required.
3. Install each hose on each outlet of the SCWD by applying firm, but even pressure, until each hose is fully seated. It is recommended at this point that you install worm clamps for added protection against leaks and the possibility of the hose coming loose. Do not over-tighten the worm clamps.
4. Install the inlet hose using the same operations noted in Step 3, paying close attention not to exert too much force on the nipple.
5. Once all hoses are mounted and clamped, you are now ready to install the outlet elbows and nozzles on each end of the outlet hoses. By combining rigid elbows to form an angle over the aquarium side you can adjust the position of the outlet nozzles to give you the desired current affect. The configuration of the elbow is such that it will hang over the back of the tank on both sides like an upside down "U." At this time, you should support the SCWD by mounting or hanging the SCWD from the back of your tank using bendable wire.
6. Connect the inlet hose with the inline valve to your pump, canister filter, or powerhead outlet. Be sure to use a worm clamp to avoid any potential leakage.

Operation:

1. Make certain the SCWD is securely installed before operation. Open the in-line valve between the water pump and your SCWD so that it is approximately half open. This is as precautionary step to prevent a full force surge to the SCWD when using some of higher volume and pressure pumps.
2. Apply power to the water pump. Verify water outlets are expelling water and that there are no leaks at any of the connections. Verify that the device is switching water flow between the two outlets. Now, open the in-line valve to your desired flow.

Remember that switching speed and current duration are dependent on the volume of water flowing through the SCWD. Higher volume pumps will naturally cause a quicker switching response than lower volume pumps. By adjusting your inline valve you will be able to regulate both the amount of flow and the switching speed.
Troubleshooting
Symptom: Switching speed too slow.
Remedy: Check pump for proper flow/pressure rating.
Symptom: Switching speed inconsistent.
Remedy: Check hoses for algae and slime obstructions. Symptom: SCWD is noisy or stops abruptly, stops and starts sporadically. Remedy: Foreign debris is lodged in switching mechanism. Flush out unit to dislodge debris. Verify pre-filter is installed and is not clogged or restricting flow.

[fluver]

great information Thanks to all

Thanks

Lisa
fluver

[icebear]

Did we ever find out what Flatworm eXit was made from? TD Wyatt and Doug were trying to find out for me when i was prego and battling a FW plague... i think the conclusion was to not allow it to come into contact with my skin at all, to play it as safely as possible.

it would be good to know more about 'pesticides' like those