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Question about Ich and prevention

820 views 6 replies 4 participants last post by  ptrick 
#1 ·
I read an article on a magazine that you can get rid of the Ich faster is by putting them on a seperate hospital tank, add med and cranking the heat to around 80-82 degrees because the heat will rapid the growth of the disease and it will go away? 80-82 degrees, won't that hurt the fish???? I'm just wondering if anybody on the board has ever done this method? and what method would you guys recommend on a good Ich remover medication/technique?? thanks a bunch :thumbup:

Pat
 
#2 ·
yeah i had a a clown with the bad case of ich. so increased my temp to 82 but sometimes it would hit 84 but his ich went away in about 3 days with no medication not i am back to regular of 78-80.2
and if you decide to use meds if you have any anenomes or something like that make sure the meds have no copper because that will kill them. use the one with no copper it will take a little longer 5-7 days but safer because once you put copper in it will stay :(
 
#3 ·
q tank is more for meds, most tanks that are either Hawaiian, Indo-Pacific, or Red Sea systems will do fine at 80 to 82 degrees F anyway. I maintain all my systems at 80F with controllers, and see a few days where temps get to 82 during the photoperiod (no chillers currently, just fans and good air circulation and central AC).
 
#5 ·
ptrick said:
how about in a reef tank, cranking the temp to 80's, would it hurt the corals???
Most corals do their best in 80 to 83 or 84 degree F water, and growth rates go up as the temp does, but at 85 F up, corals start having issues with being able to keep the zooxanthellae on board, at 85F bleaching is emminent, depending on duration of that temp elevation, intensity of light, some water parameters, and ,to some extent, speciation and presence or absense of water (tidal effect). The upper safe range for most tanks is 80 to 83F. If your temp stays above 83 for extended periods, and some little accident of fate drives the temps up into the 85F or higher range, then you'll start to lose specimens to bleaching. So long as you keep your tank in the 80 to 83 F range, you GENERALLY will not have issues...

HTH
 
#7 ·
Cool, thanks guys for the info

Also, I had invested on this product called Molecular Ionization, I was thinking of purchasing a UV sterilizer before but this guy suggested me on getting this, he said it's more cheaper than the UV and it's far more effective compared to the UV. Anybody ever used this product?? The guy gave me a 20% discount if you mention the code 227fish and it's free shipping too:thumbup:

www.ecoaqualizer.com

thanks

Pat
 
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