Problems!

[Kmon]

I have a 55 gallon aquarium the tank has a diy plenium and I think it's crush coral about 2 inches on that. Then have an overflow to wet/dry trickle with protein skimmer and using r/o water. All levels are fine except nitrates witch if im correct are because of the bio balls but also having problem with algae mostly green hair kind thinking of changing to sump but would like some input on current setup.

[rottielover]

First, WELCOME! (wow, I'm actually the first person to say that for once )

From my readings and experiances thus far, Bio Balls in a reef tank just lead to Nitrate problems. You'll want to remove them slowly (10% of bio ball volume per week is what I see recommended the most).

Crushed Coral also seems to be disfavored because of it's trapping of detris and uneaten food, etc. Basically no animals can sift it, and it's hard to clean. Most recommend you remove the crushed coral in favor of either barebottom tank, or replace the CC with sand (araginate or southdown etc.). If you choose to replace the substrate with sand, most people either A. do it all at once or B. change out about 20-30% of the CC with sand every few days until it's done.

I also have been battling a nitrate problem here's some more things I did...

1. Run skimmer WET - make sure it's producing "weak tea" instead of black gunk
2. Started a better cleaning routine for overflow, sump, etc. (toothbrushes are your friend!)
3. I started using a product called AZ-NO3 to help my LR along.

In 3 weeks my nitrate levels have gone from 80ppm to 20ppm (one 20% water change in there as well). I expect to hit a 0 level (well at least not be able to detect them on my test kit) within a few more weeks.

Hope some of these help!

[wanareef]

Wow 80ppm to 20ppm last time I saw that was when the tank was cycling. The hair algae is from phosphates - usually can't measure for it, but it's there. Are you just using ro only or ro/di as well? Depends on which part of the country you are in but you might want to test and maybe add di membrane

[rottielover]

Originally Posted by wanareef

Wow 80ppm to 20ppm last time I saw that was when the tank was cycling. The hair algae is from phosphates - usually can't measure for it, but it's there. Are you just using ro only or ro/di as well? Depends on which part of the country you are in but you might want to test and maybe add di membrane

Yea, part of my problem was that I had a cansiter filter full of media that I forgot was in there. Since then I 've also removed all the media from the canister (use this to run my UV). That AZ-NO3 sure seems to do what it says it does though!

I did forget to mention about phosphates, I run a Phosban reactor, but instead of using phosban (sorry two little fishy's) I use Seachem's PhosGuard. I like seachems better because it's round hard little pellets all the same size, and they don't get sucked thru the pads in the reactor and pumped out into the sump like the phosban stuff does. So far I've had really good results using the PhosBan reactor, and filling it full of PhosGurad and Kent's Reef Carbon (I'm basically mixing my own Seachem product Something Gel that's a mix of carbon and Phosban).


ANyway.... After all this stuff my loads and loads of hair algea is going away finally! (the lawnmower blenny and extra snails have helped there as well)

[mg]

You didn't mention if you are using LR or not. If you have a good amount of live rock and a low bioload then taking out the bioballs should be no problem otherwise take them out in stages.

I would test your source water and tank for phosphates, although you may not see any in your tank as previously mentioned if bound in the algae.

Check your lights and replace any old bulbs, what type of a photoperiod are you running and what type of bulbs?

Do you have any type of a clean up crew to help with and uneaten food, ditrius?

[Loverotties]

Rottielover So you like the AZ-NO3 ?I was wondering if that does anything, cause I can't get mine lower then 5 and I'm picky I want 0.And have you ever used phosBan?Cause I here that it is the best ,because the others have aluminum something in it that the corals don't like.

[tims]

Welcome to trt Kmon!
Like everyone said..
you high nit. problem maybe coming from the bio balls.
the Hiar could be a build up of waste feeding the hiar. the CC will trap it and keep it fed for a while..
how long has your tank been set up and who is in it?, how often do you feed?

[Kmon]

Thanks for the welcome and replies tims the tanks been up a little over a year I have about 75 pounds of live rock 1 clown 1 cleaner srimp and had a bunch of snails but havent been seeing to much of theem lately and there was also an emerald crab but dont know if he is still living. rottielover had a question about the running skimmer wet what does it mean. The gunk my skimmer produces is mostly black do try to keep everything clean though.

Almost forgot do i leave in the plenium or take it out when i change to sand!

[LISound]

i just removed the CC bottom in my tank...
DO IT ALL SLOWLY AND IN PARTS.
gave myself a case of the old new tank syndrome...also did a big water change at the time and replaced filters and media...won't ever do that again.
you would also want to remove any dead critters from the tank unless the cleanup crew will take care of them.
if animals are missing or dying, there may be a bigger problem.

how often do you siphon the bottom?

[tims]

Originally Posted by Kmon

rottielover had a question about the running skimmer wet what does it mean. The gunk my skimmer produces is mostly black do try to keep everything clean though.

most likly you are running your skimmer "dry" meaning you get a faom that is sorta sticky and does not fill the catch basin up fast. a "wet" skimming will remove water also and fill up your catch basin pretty fast. it should have the color of "tea"..just dont drink it

with your pleniium .. i do not run one, but other do..some say it works some say not.. it is one of those things i think either works for ya or it does not..

changing your tank or CC 1/4 at a time would be best try to remove it slowly..
missing snails huh..hopefully the are not rotting in the tank.. yor bistle worms should have found them pretty fast..

[rottielover]

See above ( ^ ) about wet skimming

Originally Posted by Loverotties

Rottielover So you like the AZ-NO3 ?I was wondering if that does anything, cause I can't get mine lower then 5 and I'm picky I want 0.And have you ever used phosBan?Cause I here that it is the best ,because the others have aluminum something in it that the corals don't like.

AZ-NO3 seems to be working in my case. After reading about the product I think of it this way... It's a little like vitamins for your Nitrate eating bacteria (oversimplification here), basically I think it causes your Nitrate eaters to reproduce at a quicker rate than normal, thus they start eating up the nitrates (It also containes something that "bonds" to the nitrates allowing the skimmer to remove them more easily - as evidenced by me needing to clean my skimmer out way more times a week then normal).

I used 1 batch of Phosban in my reactor and hated it, it got EVERYWHERE, even with turning the flow in the reactor down to around 10 gph (50 gph is the recommended setting). I've been MUCH happier with PhosGuard, and to date none of my corals seem affected in anyway, though granted I have a very limited coral collection at the moment (1 Montipora, 1 Acro, 5 colonies of zoa's, some mushrooms, 1 zenia, rock with yellow polups, GSP (small colony), um that's about it I think).....

Phosban is Iron Oxide (Rust), and if you put it in a reactor you have to be VERY careful cause the stuff get's all over the place (small partical sizes get thru the foam pads in my reactor).

Anyway, this is just MO, lots of people use Phosban and it works great for them, and If I had continued using it, I'd probly say it works, but the hassel of the clean up etc. was too much for me. The phosguard pellets are much easier to clean out.

[Loverotties]

Ok thanks!