Powder Blues and Regal Tangs

[Wasubi]

Over the last few years, I have unsuccessfully introduced both powder blues and regals into my 90 gallon reef tank. Within hours, they become tainted with ick and are usually dead by morning. I have taken water samples to my LFS and also have tested levels myself (cant always trust the LFS guys!).

Anyone else having such problems? Has anyone who had this problem found a cure?


Thanks,
Mike

[VWD]

I am a firm believer that ick is a parasite that come into the tank on the fish or in the water or is in the tank already. A water test is not goning to tell you if You or the LFS had it. More then likely You are bringing it in on the new fish. Some fish are more prone to get it then others.

[reef_noob]

My understanding is that ich is a stress related illness. That is, it is always present but most of the time fish can naturally resist it. In times of stress they become susceptible to it. Do you quarantine your fish? What is your acclimation procedure? You may want to see if you can get the lfs to hold the fish for a week or so so that you can see if it is healthy and so you can give it some time to get healthy.

Also, what are you testing for? What additives do you use?

[VWD]

No ick is a parasite and will die off in time. it hads to have a host to survive. Stress just makes the fish weaker.

[VWD]

Alot of fish fight it off very well. feed with Garlic extreme to help keep the fish eating.

[Wasubi]

Hi chris.


I acclimate my fish using tubing and a bucket. I acclimate according to what I've read on saltwaterfish.com.

As far as tests, I run calcium, ammonia, phosphates, pH, kH, and SG.

Additives are Coral Vital, Reef Buffer, Reef Advantage (ca), Reef builder. I use Tropic Marin Salt.

I have recently added a Phos-ban reactor and Sea gel to wipe out my phosphates once and for all.

[VWD]

If You have a reef Tank you really can't treat the tank for ick. It is best to have a QT tank to keep new fish and corals in before You place them into the display tank. It will alow you to treat them if something appears.

[reef_noob]

Hmm...interesting short read on ich prevention and treatment here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichart2mar.htm

[VWD]

I agree with that . once you get rid of ick it will be gone until you put a new infected fish into the tank.

[VWD]

OT all new fish. is the safest way to go. If You ever lose a prize fish . You will.

[reef_noob]

I would imagine that ich is a pretty persistent thing in LFS tanks but most of the sick/dead ones get scooped out before anyone can notice. I'm concerned about the fact that you say that the fish usually die within a day, it seems pretty quick. I'm wondering if there is something environmental which is stressing the fish to the point that they are very susceptible to an infection that they may have been previously fighting off. Do you always buy from the same store?

[Wasubi]

There are two stores where I bought fish in the past. Now, I only get fish from one store and corals from the other. Both stores love me because I have spent sooooo much money in the past. Or is it my money they love?

Anyway, I have great luck with other fish: my purple tilefish, two green canary blennies, flame hawk, Marine beta, flame angel, and potters angel.

I can never get a powder blue or regal tang to make it for more than 24 hours in my tank. Bums me out bigtime.

[VWD]

Tangs seem to be prone to getting ick. by the way. How big is Your tank.

[reef_noob]

Hmm, well, the only way to be sure that the fish is free of ich is to quarantine it for a minimum of 28 days. If it shows signs of ich during that time, treat with copper in the QT, and keep the fish in the QT for another 28 days after it shows no signs of ich. Of course, quarantining a tang requires a pretty sizable tank I'd guess no less than 20gal, prob more.

[VWD]

quarantine, quarantine, quarantine, we all get lazy about doing it. but need to.


I saw the picture of you very nice tank.