Plumbing ????

[Orient Master]

Ok i know that there are many ways to plumb a tank but my question is about what is so different from these one here.

the first one is like the typical reef ready setup but with out the pipes going trough the bottom but out the back side of the tank. ( as if someone couldnt drill the bottom but like the look of the full length overflow boxes.



Now the second is like the first just the holes drilled slightly higher in the tank.


and the last is the coast to coast. the same as above except the length of the suvace skimmer is larger.


well you get the just of it. doesn't all of them get the job done of draining the tank with out the fear of draining the whole tank when the power is off. and they all also skim the surface. the last two dont take to much space in the tank. and all can fited with "what do you call them 'dolphin' silencer pipes right?"

So i guess what i am trying to get at is for a person that has a tank that is not predrilled in the bottom which would be the best way to plumb the tank with out using the HOB type overflows the have been known to lose syphon>

[tims]

very good illustrations Chris, Each one Haas its good and bad points ( depending on who you talk to )

[Orient Master]

thanks. i just don't like how the full length overflow boxes take up so much space. if the coast to coast works just like the full length i would perfer using that one except i cant find one that is premade. I would have to buy a regular tank and then drill it my self. and build the CTC my self.

[tims]

the coast to coast , is not something that is used a whole lot anymore, one member use to have frags in that area also.
you should be able to make it out of acrylic. but attaching it to the tank will be the hard part.

[superwizbang]

To be politically correct, I think Tim was speaking of "frags" in his reply. 8) Chris, I am assuming the bottom is tempered?

-Ken

[Orient Master]

Originally Posted by superwizbang

Chris, I am assuming the bottom is tempered?

-Ken

Well i have an oportunity to get a used tank about a year old but there is no label on the tank and i have heard a lot about the bottoms being tempered and the backs most of the time not being tempered.

[superwizbang]

Yeah, if you don't know, better to be safe. I had to hold my breath when we drilled the back of my 260 the other day. There is always the outside chance the back is too...and I didn't know either. Luckily it all turned out ok. I would vote for the first schematic simply because it will make draining the tank easier if you ever need to break it down. If that will not be an issue, then the second schematic might be the best way to go...just my thoughts.

-K

[Orient Master]

Originally Posted by superwizbang

I would vote for the first schematic simply because it will make draining the tank easier if you ever need to break it down. If that will not be an issue, then the second schematic might be the best way to go...just my thoughts.

-K

Now how would the draining of the tank with the first overflow work better. the box would be full length but be a solid. So the drain would never have the presure that the main water collum would have. only the water flowing over the wall would be drained.

That makes me think of another question.

Why is it that some of the walls are solid and some are not?

[superwizbang]

Ahh, I didn't look close enough. I thought you were using stand pipes only.

[Orient Master]

Originally Posted by superwizbang

Ahh, I didn't look close enough. I thought you were using stand pipes only.

Thats ok i wasnt very clear with the drawings of the walls. My fault.