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Old 01-13-2003, 07:56 PM   #1
rothfussa
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ok lighting opinion time....


i am looking at retrofitting a lighting system... which do you think is a better solution:
2x110w 50/50 VHP and 1x250w 10k MH
sequence, 4hr VHO ---> 4hr VHO and MH ---> 4hr VHO

or

4x110w 50/50
sequence, 4hr 2xVHO ---> 4hr 4xVHO ----> 4hr 2xVHO

and this would be for a 75gal. reef/fish tank thanks for your imput
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Old 01-13-2003, 08:14 PM   #2
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I like the VHO/MH option but I think you need (2) MH. Otherwise the light has to go over the center brace which will cause a shadow and possibly damage the brace.
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Old 01-13-2003, 08:16 PM   #3
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vho/mh is awesome Casey
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Old 01-13-2003, 09:05 PM   #4
rothfussa
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well i had thought about the shadow issue... and noticed they made double ended bulbs... think that may be a good MH option?
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Old 01-13-2003, 09:29 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by rothfussa
well i had thought about the shadow issue... and noticed they made double ended bulbs... think that may be a good MH option?
DE bulbs are an excellent choice but that won't solve the shadow issue. The biggest issue with having MH over the brace is that the UV will prematurely deteriorate a plastic brace or overheat a glass brace.

Here's a website that you may find helpful for choosing a 250 watt bulb.
http://www.animalnetwork.com/fish2/a.../2/default.asp
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Old 01-13-2003, 10:25 PM   #6
rothfussa
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what if i cover the brace w/ thin wood and then coat it in a reflective material like metal or something?
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Old 01-14-2003, 12:57 AM   #7
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I have a 75 on which I had (1) 250 MH 65k isaski, (2) 110 W VHO actinic. THe MH was right above the center brace. It did not damage the brace as far as I could tell, well not in the 6 mo or so I had it set up like that, but it was a HORRIBLE EYESORE, the shadow that is. I hated it. Now I have (2) 250 65k isawkis and the same VHO supplementation and it is much much better, although it is a little yellow for me, I wish I had 4 VHO actinic now. I would just go straight for the actinic instead of the 50/50 unless you want to do 2 actinic, 2 50/50 and build up the light cycle that way. Also depending on what you are keeping I would consider the 65k iwaskis over 10k, I had 10k for a long time, and since I have switched to 65k I have witnessed explosive growth in both softies and LPS, as well as SPS frags, ,my clam also likes it better.
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Old 01-14-2003, 11:38 AM   #8
rothfussa
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thanks for the input
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Old 01-15-2003, 01:22 AM   #9
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I find it interesting that no one asked you what it is that you are trying to keep... If your intention is to keep octocorals and some species of fore-reef acros or montiporas or lps, then good intense VHO lighting would be all that you need to keep thriving colonys of corals. If your intention is to keep mostly reef-top spp. of stonies and clams, then definitely, MH with VHO supplementation would be the choice. Consider which biotope you wish to mimic, select your specimens to fill the niches in the biotope, add complementary fishes and inverts and suitable substrates, and match the currents to the part of that biotope your emulation seeks to copy. MH can be too much for some spp. of acros and other stonies, definitely too much for many spp of corals and corallimorphs that come from either deeper water or murky lagoonal conditions. The result of such mismatching can be the development of photoprotective pigments much the same way that we do with melanin. The result? rapidly growing BROWN corals. Depending on the location that many corals are collected from, coloration may be intense under bright lighting, or almost non-existant. It all comes back to whether that particular coral strain/variant has been selected by genetics to develop in high energy environments or not. Some specimens that brown up nicely under MH actually color up better (in non-brown shades) under VHO lighting. The only way to really tell is to see the conditions that the coral has grown under while in captivity.

Heck, another case for captive-bred corals...
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