Noisy Tank

[Ichthus]

Well, I got my 100g up and running. After much hard work I might add.

My NEW question is this: The return to the sump is making a lot of noise. It seems that there is air in the line too. I originally filled the overflow chambers and filled my sump, then on the CL when the water started to fill the lines, I waited until all the pipes were filled with water then opened up the return to the sump and a lot of air/water comes out. I am running a T4 pump on the CL and a T4 from sump to tank.

On the return CL, I am using 3/4" tubing so it can go to a SCWD. However I am using 1" PVC on the drain for the CL.

I made a Dursal pipe in my Overflow boxes. Should the cap on the top be solid or have a hole drilled in it. Mine has a hole. Is that hole needed or should I re-cap it with a solid piece.

It sounds like a dishwasher in my living room. HELP!

[Geoff]

if you have bubbles coming out of your CL then you have a tiny hole somewhere. usually at at a connector. if the hole is before the pump than these bubbles make a lot of noise when they hit the impellor.

i am having a fun time with noise also. i have also found that PVC is a great sounding board. if there is any vibration in the pump the PVC pipes will amplify it.

there should be a tiny hole in the cap of the dursa. if the hole is to small then the dursa will act like a siphon and you may get a sucking sound at the inlet end of the dursa. if the hole is to big then your flow may be slowed. it will also be noisy. i try and start with a 1/16" hole, then go larger if need be. i also have an assortment of the caps around with different size holes just to test.

G~

[tdwyatt]

Originally posted by Ichthus
I made a Dursal pipe in my Overflow boxes. Should the cap on the top be solid or have a hole drilled in it. Mine has a hole. Is that hole needed or should I re-cap it with a solid piece.

Tap the cap and install a pvc valve. This will allow you to fine tune the drain so that it will not "flush" nor slow down due to lack of siphon pull.

Earl (Digital Dragon) made some with the hle in the cap on the side, starting with a series of horizontal holes that increase in diameter up to a 3/8" hole in the cap, and a 7/16 hle inside on the fitting that holds the cap. In this way, you can dial different hole sizes to the opening on the inner fitting that allows for some adjustment... ... or you could just tap the capand thread in the pvc/nylon valve fitting.

HTH

[Ichthus]

My air is from the return to the sump from the overflow. I placed my finger over the hole last night and the water level in the sump decreased BIGTIME. How hight should the cap on the dursa pipe be? At the top of the combs? Inch below? Why cant there be a book on this stuff?

[Geoff]

the T part on the dursa needs to be slightly higher than the bottom of the siphon tube in the overflow box inside the tank.

G~