Nirates and "Bad" Algae

[bpatrick]

So I have had a 55 gal tank up for almost two months now. Live stock and tests are:

Livestock:
10 snails(astrea/trochus/Sand-sifters)
4 hermits (blue-leg)
2 P. Shrimp

Stuff that came on LR (gulfview.com LR for reference):
Various Feather Dusters
Various Bivalves
Various Marco (Caulerpa, Halimeda, etc.)
Small Gorgonian (eunica sp.?)
Small coral colony (Sidestrea radians?)
Hidden Cup Coral (~12 polyps)
Some Colonial Orange Cup Coral Species (~8 clusters)
Various Truncates
2 Sea Cukes Species unknown (they stay in the rocks and seem happy)
Various Sponges

Tests:

Ph: 8.3
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 15ppm (color scale reads 10 and 20 so this is estimated)
SG: 1.025
Temp: 78F

So everything in the tank seems happy with the exception of some of the truncates. But, do to the nitrate, I am having issues with Green Hair Algae (GHA) and Cyanobacteria (AKA Red Slime Algae). For the most part the GHA is confined to the back glass with some small confined patches on the gravel and LR but does not seem to be encroching on spots where coraline algae, which is also spreading well, is. The Cyano is mainly on the gravel in areas of lower flow (which are mainly the ends of the tank). So it seems like the algae is not taking over but isn't really getting better should I be worried? Also is 15 ppm Nirate a concern if I want to keep Ricordea and Zoanthids?

[ibanez2k]

The nitrate levels are high, which is why you are seeing algae growth. You can fix that though with some water changes with good RO/DI or distilled water. Your tank is still very new so the high nitrate level is most likely from nutrient buildup when your tank cycled.

[Mr.Peanut]

Personally, I do not think your nitrates are to high. Any higher and I would start to get concerned. I try to keep my tank in the 15ppm and lower range. Usually around 5ppm and I am happy.

What kind of water are you using for water changes and top offs?

[three90s&125sump]

You have algae because you have PO4 not nitrates.

I would not be concerned it is new tank syndrome. Keep up on water changes 25 percent per week. Harvest algae when you do water changes. The cyano will recead at night in the absence of light and release the PO4 back into the system so you should syphon the cyano every night and do a small water change. Do not feed the system.

[Loverotties]

Originally Posted by Mr.Peanut

Personally, I do not think your nitrates are to high. Any higher and I would start to get concerned. I try to keep my tank in the 15ppm and lower range. Usually around 5ppm and I am happy.

What kind of water are you using for water changes and top offs?

+1

[Doug1]

i agree it's more of a phosphate issue than high nitrate, that's just an indicator that you are feeding to much or the tank is to young to have established an equalibrium. This is why most of us that have been around recommend going really slow the 1st 6 months or so.
Also in you tank description you don't list skimmer or any other export method, nor mention how much of what you are feeding?

[Elegance Coral]

Algae blooms at 2 months are part of the growing pains of reefing. The initial cycle where bacteria in oxygen rich areas have been established may be over, but the colonization of the bacteria responsible for removing nitrate can take much longer. Like previously stated, just remove algae when you see it. This will remove the nitrogenous waste and phosphate bound within the algae. If maintenance and filtration are up to par, the algae blooms should subside.

[bpatrick]

Thanks for the replies everyone. Here are replies to some of the questions posed above. Also i should be getting a phosphate test later this week (ie. when UPS gets it here).

In response to the question on skimmer and nutrient export, the skimmer on the tank is a remora pro w/ Mag 3 pump and the only other means of export is the removal of algae (both macro and micro). I can't really remove the cyanobacteria (if you know a way let me know) so I usually just stir up the gravel (if this is a bad practice let me know).

As for the question of water I use tap water run through carbon and a polyfilter pad then aged for a number of days before being used in water changes/top off. Testing of this water shows only a slight presence of nitrate (~2-3ppm) with nitrite and ammonia undectectable.

For feeding, I do ocasionally (~2/week) feed cylop-ezee (frozen bar variety) for the gorgonian and corals mentioned above. I usually just feed a small shaving off the end of the bar as directed by LFS. Is this too much?

[three90s&125sump]

Don't bother with the PO4 test.

Are you sure it is cyano? Cyano is very easily syphoned out right where it grows.

[Mr.Peanut]

Originally Posted by bpatrick

.

As for the question of water I use tap water run through carbon and a polyfilter pad then aged for a number of days before being used in water changes/top off. Testing of this water shows only a slight presence of nitrate (~2-3ppm) with nitrite and ammonia undectectable.

That is probably your problem. Take some of the water and have it tested for TDS total dissolved solids. It needs to be ZERO.

Getting a source of ro/di water will more than likely solve your problems.

Removing cyano is rather easy with air line tubing. Just siphon it out. Its kind of fun to watch it come of surfaces in sheets.

[cutietwo]

Originally Posted by Mr.Peanut

That is probably your problem. Take some of the water and have it tested for TDS total dissolved solids. It needs to be ZERO.

Getting a source of ro/di water will more than likely solve your problems.

Removing cyano is rather easy with air line tubing. Just siphon it out. Its kind of fun to watch it come of surfaces in sheets.

so does that work better than a vaccume? i am having a red slime algae problem, but the vaccume does not work at all for it. ..it just slides down to the bottom *gross!* I am having to resort to taking a measuring cup, and taking cupfuls of sand out while carefully keeping the slime algae on the surface (and from sliding out of the cup) and then keeping it in a bowl for a few days and rinsing until I don't see it anymore and then put it back in the tank. Really getting annoying...

[ibanez2k]

Originally Posted by cutietwo

so does that work better than a vaccume? i am having a red slime algae problem, but the vaccume does not work at all for it. ..it just slides down to the bottom *gross!* I am having to resort to taking a measuring cup, and taking cupfuls of sand out while carefully keeping the slime algae on the surface (and from sliding out of the cup) and then keeping it in a bowl for a few days and rinsing until I don't see it anymore and then put it back in the tank. Really getting annoying...

It works better for some stuff. It's alot more tight and direct. Smaller tube means more pinpoint accuracy in syphoning. That might work better for red slime algae. You could give it a shot if you have a few feet of airline tubing lying around anyway.

[Doug1]

Originally Posted by Mr.Peanut

That is probably your problem. Take some of the water and have it tested for TDS total dissolved solids. It needs to be ZERO.

Getting a source of ro/di water will more than likely solve your problems.

Removing cyano is rather easy with air line tubing. Just siphon it out. Its kind of fun to watch it come of surfaces in sheets.

I think the zero TDS is over rated, it's relevant if you have spent the $$$$$$ on Ro/DI but the polypad filter, if it's the real Marine Bio Polypad (?) should handle a lot of the toxons and marginal compounds with out stripping calcium, etc from the water. Its the chlorine, Chloramine, phosphates, nitrates and all the other stuff added to muni water as well as resident nitrate levels.

[sks4613]

I would definetly spend the money to get a good RO/DI system. Get a TDS meter if you cant get the system. I would not waste my money on a PO4 test. IMO 15 ppm in nitrates is not that bad however the goal should be 0. You have the algae not because of the nitrates rather the phosphates. I would try Kent Marine phosphate sponge. Put it in a filter bag, just do not leave it in for more than 2 days. This product will help lower you phosphate levels and will not release aluminum into the tank.
Regarding the ricordeas, I have kept both in tanks while trying to consistantly establish 0 nitrates and they survived with no adverse side effects.

[drew1092]

Sounds like I have been dealing with the exact same problem as you. Tank is only 2 1/2 months old and has been doing very good and balanced the entire time with the exception of some hair algae and cyano in the corner of the tank which started to appear last week. My nitrates as well were holding at 10-20 ppm (API test). All the live stock did great with the exception of a FS. Earlier last week I did a 30% water change with distilled and siphoned with a 1/2" hose all the cyano and some sand. As been said, it has already started coming back but much less than before. Also it does recede at night. Now my nitrates are reading 0. Hope I got it. Also, I threw in an API phoszorb bag into the sump. Should I take it out??? I also cut down my lighting schedule from 12 hours to 10. Not sure but I hope that helps, also save on electricity.

As for the hair algae, I got a bunch of turbos and placed them on the algae, no more GHA! Let me know if you have any other thoughts and how its going for you.