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Old 10-02-2009, 11:52 PM   #1
Cuttlefish
Little Fishy
 
Join Date: May 2009
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New Green Goniopora


This is one of the first times Ive actually done some reading on a coral before I bought it. Granted I dont have too many corals aside from the softies, zoa's and that branching Monitpora frag, all of which I took the LFS guy's word for it that I could maintain the species. And so far they've all thrived despite that 6 week stretch of pulling my hair out trying to balance Ca and Alk.

Oddly its the difficulty in keeping these Goni's that led me to try it out. Im on a bit of a mission to prove what this system can sustain. Its a mix of the Berlin, Ecosystem (half mud/macro, half rock/duster refugium), as well as DSB. Im also using a wet-dry trickle filter as Im sure it must offer alot in terms of gas exchange as well as an Ammonia and Nitrite consuming powerhouse. Granted these nitrogenous wastes would normally be largely handled by any tank with its fair share of cycled live rock but I just dont see the harm in providing another natural environment where life (in this case bacteria) can grow as it wishes. I havnt had a problem with nitrates until the past week or two when I overdosed my duster section with phosphate rich live phytoplankton, rotifers and oyster eggs. That stuff will cause algae blooms very easily if youre not careful.

Anyway, why all the background on a thread about the addition of a coral? Because I know these things are quite difficult to keep for any extended period of time. What Ive noticed already is once the calcium drops below 400, the Goni definetly shows signs of distress. The first day I was surprised as it was fully open and extended within the first hour of introduction. But 8 hours later it was starting to shrink and by hour 10 it was only the heads of the polyps visible. This caused me some distress too, wondering why Im putting myself in this situation with these hard to keep species, am I trying to drive myself crazy? Then I decided to chill ma ***** out and try some deductive reasoning. Started with a calcium test and sure enough the days dose of B-Ionic was completely sucked out of the system. I have all those Porites encrusted rocks, a hell of alot of coralline algae and i guess the Montipora and this Goni really depletes the calcium levels.

Anyway this is one beautiful LPS coral and Id like to learn all I can about getting them to survive well beyond the projected odds. Ive read in 3 places the surviveability rate of Goni's is less than 12 months. So any information I could get from TRT would be really appreciated. I have been on the verge of splurging for a Ca reactor for a couple weeks and I think the addition of this one species will put me over the top. IF these things need Ca that badly, I dont feel like testing my water 2-3 times a day and dosing it like crazy. It would obviously be far more cost effective to buy a reactor.

So how bout it? Anyone have any success or failures with this species?
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Old 10-03-2009, 12:14 AM   #2
Jadinop
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Goni's are strictly filter feeders. I would concentrate more on providing the proper foods and less on calcium. Goniopora do not need excessive amounts of Ca and I certainly wouldn't purchase a CA reactor to support a Goni. Routine water changes and occasional doses are all that your tank will need based on your current corals. Don't get caught up "chasing the devil" with your parameters. Consistency is more important that chasing a certain set of numbers.

Here are some suggestions on foods.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2005/10/aafeature2
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Old 10-03-2009, 01:21 AM   #3
Cuttlefish
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Originally Posted by Jadinop View Post
Goni's are strictly filter feeders. I would concentrate more on providing the proper foods and less on calcium. Goniopora do not need excessive amounts of Ca and I certainly wouldn't purchase a CA reactor to support a Goni. Routine water changes and occasional doses are all that your tank will need based on your current corals. Don't get caught up "chasing the devil" with your parameters. Consistency is more important that chasing a certain set of numbers.

Here are some suggestions on foods.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2005/10/aafeature2

K, sounds like solid advice to me. Thanks for the link as well, I actually read an article by the same guy but it wasnt as detailed. I believe ya about it not needing a huge amount of calcium. But how do you explain it shrinking just as the calcium dropped below 380 and then extending again within 30 minutes of another dose? Could be coincidence.

Another thing I dont get is that Ive read that they feed at night, but apparently they retract when the lights go out. Is mine just acting nutty again or do all Gonis retract at night and if so, how do they feed? I mean it isnt completely retracted, the polyp heads still protrude but surely they feed when fully extended ya?

Why does my calcium continue to get absorbed between 24-48 hours of dosing? Keep in mind I have quite a few things other than the Porites Corals, Monti and huge amounts of expanding algae with bold and deep purple pigmentation (in the past its been dull so im assuming it is actively encrusting and demanding Ca for that). Theres also Cocoworms repairing/building tubes, Candy Corals, lots of snails, Halimeda and now the Flower Pot. Are you sure there is no way this bioload could account for the rapid depletion of Calcium? I just need to know what to expect from a healthy reeftank in terms of element absorbtion cuz im having trouble understanding where else it could go. "Calcium precipitation?"
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Old 10-03-2009, 02:29 AM   #4
bcrum51
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I keeped a goni alive and really healthy by taking a 2L bottle and cutting the top 1/4 of the bottle and placing it over the goni for 30mins or so and putting the turkey baster in the hole of the bottle and feeding plankton the goni would extend more nd the mouths would be visible open try that
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Old 10-03-2009, 01:16 PM   #5
Cuttlefish
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Originally Posted by bcrum51 View Post
I keeped a goni alive and really healthy by taking a 2L bottle and cutting the top 1/4 of the bottle and placing it over the goni for 30mins or so and putting the turkey baster in the hole of the bottle and feeding plankton the goni would extend more nd the mouths would be visible open try that
Yea Ive tried feeding a variety foods that are recommended for Gonis including the phyto, oyster eggs and rotis but I havnt noticed any sort of feeding response. I will try the bottle method though, perhaps it needs to settle on the polyps as opposed being squirted on. I just want to wait til the last dose of foods clears cuz Im starting to get a lil cyano here n there again. I know the most important factor with these things, aside from having perfect water is the feeding.

So what am I looking for as far as a feeding response that lets me know the thing is consuming food?
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Old 10-03-2009, 02:00 PM   #6
bcrum51
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u'll see extension especially with the bottle method I came to the conclusion that they were slow feeders and the other stock in my tank was consuming the food before the goni had a chance
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Old 10-03-2009, 02:09 PM   #7
Cuttlefish
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Originally Posted by bcrum51 View Post
u'll see extension especially with the bottle method I came to the conclusion that they were slow feeders and the other stock in my tank was consuming the food before the goni had a chance
Nothing else really eats this stuff though, oyster eggs and rotifers are too tiny of a particle for my fish to be interested. The Long nose does follow me and my squirt stick around but he doesnt eat much of it. it just seems like the small stuff I squirt over the Goni just passes right by the polyps. I just see no indication that the coral is actually consuming what I squirt on it.
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