New 75gal Reef Tank Step-By-Step Setup DIY - Page 15

skeety · 03-20-2006, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PowerManJ316

Any recommendations? I can't glue the whole thing together for obvious maintenance reasons and I can't fit unions in this section either.

not really...other than extra teflon tape. Try to make it as tight as possible, I suppose.

If you still see leaks/bubbles...these areas would be my first suspect.

Maybe put a piece of syran-wrap over that area and tape it off good? best idea I can think of. Silicone would be a real PIA to get off, so that's out.

Geoff · 03-20-2006, 07:33 PM

can you post pics of these problem areas? i have had to come up with some pretty creative uses of space and PVC plumbing. sometimes you just have to glue and hope. i have several of these connections on the rebuild. i get to see in a week how well i can cement PVC.

G~

PowerManJ316 · 03-20-2006, 08:09 PM

Im gonna filler up in about one week...I have it teflon taped very tight...I can barely pull them apart. If I have any problems i will post pics.

Jeremy1973 · 03-21-2006, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PowerManJ316

I got nearly got high a couple of times just priming/gluing 5 or 6 pieces together from the smell of the primer/glue. If I did the whole thing at once I would be talkin goofy for quite a while

.

Ah yes..that good old fashion high.

Now we know why plumbers love their jobs most of the time. heh heh

How much clearing do you have to work with behind the tank? How far out does the pipework extend right now?

PowerManJ316 · 03-22-2006, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeremy1973

Ah yes..that good old fashion high.

Now we know why plumbers love their jobs most of the time. heh heh

How much clearing do you have to work with behind the tank? How far out does the pipework extend right now?

The pipework sticks out about 14" in the back, and I have about 16" of space back there, i.e. just enough to pull the CLS off.

skeety · 03-23-2006, 07:45 AM

does that also leave you enough room to get back there to turn valves/etc?

PowerManJ316 · 03-24-2006, 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skeety

does that also leave you enough room to get back there to turn valves/etc?

Its gonna have to be

. Its pretty tight back there.

Jeremy1973 · 03-24-2006, 08:30 AM

Gee..you're an EE..can't you design a fully automated system or build a robot or something that turns the valves for ya?

That or you can attach strings to the valve's, and adjust them from the front of the tank... to close pipe 1, pull the blue string.. to open pipe 1 pull the red string..

Man..where would you guys be without my astonishing insight to such matters!?

PowerManJ316 · 03-24-2006, 08:07 PM

...I could even attach the strings to a gear motor and turn a motor on to pull the strings and open the valves automatically...

PowerManJ316 · 03-26-2006, 08:46 AM

Been doing lots of more research and am going to do some more different things with the CLS system after some testing.
1. The Mag 7 doesn't like being turned on real quick (< 15-30 sec). It makes lots o clunking noises when switched on and off every 5 seconds.
2. I am going to purchase a Tunze Turbelle 6060 and see how this functions. They come with a soft start function that makes them ideal for quick starts/stops. I may end up running 2-4 of these things instead of multiple Mags.
3. The gph of the Turbelles is 1600gph each...way more than i need especially since I would like to run 4 of these. However, I believe the shear forces of these is very small. Does anyone use these Turbelle style pumps? Is the water velocity relatively low?
4. The CLS system I have now that is really an open loop is not going to work how I want it too since it is truly an open system. I am going to completely do away with this portion of the CLS and turn it into a wavebox type surge device. I am going to have a 5 gal tank above the display aquarium and use the Mag 7 to pump the 5 gal full and then use a syphon/standpipe combination to empty the surge tank back into the display. Anyone have any recommendations for the size of the surge tank? My display tank is 75 gal.

Jeremy1973 · 03-31-2006, 08:30 AM

Hey Bro..so what's the progress? Do you have your new plumbing layout in place?

I think a 5gal surge tank would be more then enough. You would want to be careful that your surge of water doesn't splash and hit the bulbs (if using MH). How are you doing the surge release?

I have thought about adding a surge tank to my 75. Was going to use a good old fashion toilet float/flap to open the surge and release the water.

Geoff · 03-31-2006, 09:59 AM

with surge devices it really does not need to be that much. even 1 or 2 gallons will be quite noticeable. when doing surge devices keeping an eye on water levels is key. reverse surge devices work the other way so they are easier to keep water levels constant, but much harder to make.

G~

PowerManJ316 · 03-31-2006, 11:18 PM

I am going to try a Carlton Surge Device, or a slightly modified version. Going to be filling up a 3-4gal tank will a mag 7 and try a 1.5" return for the surge line. I am guessing its going to take some fine tuning though so i will post the details when she's workin.

PowerManJ316 · 04-03-2006, 07:12 PM

The CSD is complete and working good. I have a 1.5" internal standpipe with a 3" outter pipe and cap. Once the water level exceeds the top of the cap by about 1" the water drains very quickly and syphons all the way down to the openings in the 3" outter pipe. I have about 700gph (minus about 1 ft of head) pumping into the tank and it is not quite enough to get the water level over the top. Thus, I will be turning a Mag 3 on for about 10 seconds to get the water level over the top of the CSD device. I think about 900-1000gph input to the surge tank is needed to overcome the top of the CSD for a 1.5" drain pipe. My surge tank is 10 gal and it will fill up about 2/3 full before emptying. This is easily adjustable by shortening the inner and outter pipes. One thing I have added since the pictures were taken. I drilled another hole in the tank and added a 1.5" bulkhead on the top as an emergency overflow. Just incase something would prevent the surge tank from discharging, the water can drain from the top back to the sump/display and no saltwater on the floor

. If you're interested in more specific details let me know.

skeety · 04-04-2006, 07:07 AM

I'm interested in more specific details!! hehe

looks very interesting. Where'd you get the DIY instructions for it?