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03-02-2006, 07:58 AM
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#166
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Tang Lover
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 7,283
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I would agree with that. Baffles 1 and 5 need a 2" opening at the bottom.
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03-02-2006, 08:58 AM
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#167
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It can be rebuilt.
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
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yep, Skeety is right.  good catch!!!
which way is the water going again? 1 to 5 or 5 to 1? drilling holes in the baffles would prolly be the easiest thing to do to solve this.
G~
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03-02-2006, 09:48 AM
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#168
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Electrical G "EE" k
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 455
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To clear up the flow issues,
Water will be entering from the overflow to BOTH sections 1 and 5. Section one is the Skimmer inlet and Baffle 1 is 2" below the top of the sump. This section will overflow into section 2 because the skimmer flow is less than half of the flow into the sump (sections 1 and 5). The second section (between baffles 1 and 2) will be set by the height of the 2nd baffle, which is 5" down from the top of the sump. Water will then flow over baffle 2, under baffle 3 and over baffle 4 to the return section between baffles 4 and 5. This is the water level I will monitor for evaporation and this should be the only section in the sump that the water level will vary. Water will also enter section 5 (Refuge) from the overflow and then spill over into the return section (between baffle 4 and 5). Baffle 5 is again 2" below the top of the sump.
Thus to sum things up, the water level to the left of baffle one will be 2" below the top. The water level from baffle 1 to baffle 4 will be 5" below the top, the water level between baffle 4 and 5 will vary depending on evaporation and the water level to the right of baffle 5 will be 2" below the top.
Thanks for all the critiqueing, please look over again and make sure I am not missing anything, but I believe this is correct.
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03-02-2006, 09:58 AM
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#169
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It can be rebuilt.
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
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 now i remember. i have been looking at to many threads again.
your thinking is correct.
G~
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03-02-2006, 12:32 PM
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#170
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Electrical G "EE" k
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 455
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Geoff
 now i remember. i have been looking at to many threads again.
your thinking is correct.
G~
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Don't sweat it. After all, this made me double check all my capacity calculations which is a good thing.
Besides, for the 100+ people a day you help, I think forgetting details on 1 of those threads is alright! 
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03-04-2006, 01:12 AM
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#171
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Crazed Fish Whisperer
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 2,561
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Any updated pics? Started the water yet or anything? 
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 Instead of just building a reef in my home...I so wish I could afford to build my home in the reef!
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03-06-2006, 11:44 AM
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#172
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Electrical G "EE" k
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 455
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Jeremy1973
Any updated pics? Started the water yet or anything? 
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I was out of town all weekend so there hasn't been any new progress for a while. I have received today the remainder of the bulkheads for the tank, 20' of 1.5" flex PVC piper, a couple connections, and a Mag 7 pump. I am going to work on the CLS this week, since I have my mag 7 test pump. While I refer to it as a CLS system, it is going to consist of 5 separate pumps rather than one pump with multiple returns. I have gone this route so that I have more control over the outputs with my PLC based control system. As of right now, I plan on using a Mag 7 for the central CLS pump that will output through a spraybar. I plan on using two mag 5's that will alternate flow on/off and return through DIY eductors. I am then going to run two Mag 3's that will also alternate flow on/off and return through DIY eductors.
There will prolly be a couple of different routines to vary flow, one perhaps with all pumps on, then all pumps off.
Another that will have the 7 on all the time and the two 5's and 3's alternating together.
And one that will simulate a wave going across the tank i.e. cycle through all the pumps, one at a time in spatial order.
Now that I got a Mag, I am going to see how quickly I can turn it on/off without creating a problem for the impeller.
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03-06-2006, 11:50 AM
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#173
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Electrical G "EE" k
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 455
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I am also drawing up some electrical schematics for the wiring...prolly gonna take me a couple of weeks. At this point, I am planning on only using one GFCI breaker due to the large cost associated with them. I am going to fuse the main 120VAC line with a 15Amp GFCI (5mA sensitivity) and then use standard breakers elsewhere. This will save a lot of money, however, if a ground fault is detected, all my equipment is going to be shut off (but everyone will still be safe!!). I am also fusing EVERY output separately in addition to the branch circuit protection.
For those confused, the schematics will clear most everything up 
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03-06-2006, 11:57 AM
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#174
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It can be rebuilt.
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
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i am pretty sure a Mag 3 or a Mag 5 can power an eductor. a Mag 12 is barely able to do it. i run my eductors on Velocity T1's and T3's. these can push over 23' of head pressure which is needed to properly power an eductor. if you were to put an eductor on a low pressure pump you will actually be reducing your total flow.
G~
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03-06-2006, 10:21 PM
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#175
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Electrical G "EE" k
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 455
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I will definitely look at this closer, though the Mag 7 that I received today stated that it was specifically designed for high pressure applications. I am going to test this one and I will probably manually measure the gph is produces, though I am not sure how to do so with an eductor hooked up. I may dig a little deeper to find some specific information regarding what kind of percentage of head pressure eductors add. With a decent knowledge of physics, I would guess that since they increase the total flow by about 3-5 times, that the head pressure would increase equally 300-500%, but I will have to check into this deeper.
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03-07-2006, 05:43 AM
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#176
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It can be rebuilt.
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
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most eductors need 23' of head pressure to work properly. here is a site that will help explain what kind of pressure is needed for eductors. Mags are not high pressure pumps. regardless of what they claim. they are higher pressure than a PH, but that is all that they are more powerfull than.
G~
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03-07-2006, 08:06 AM
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#177
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: lynchburg, va
Posts: 191
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Hey Geoff!
Did you say you run eductors on Velocity T-1's & 3's? Hey!! That's great! I have the V-t4's and I didn't think they were a pressure rated pump.... But they should work, Huh?? AWESOME! That made my morning!
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03-07-2006, 09:48 AM
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#178
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It can be rebuilt.
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by electricbluelizzy
Hey Geoff!
Did you say you run eductors on Velocity T-1's & 3's? Hey!! That's great! I have the V-t4's and I didn't think they were a pressure rated pump.... But they should work, Huh?? AWESOME! That made my morning!
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sorry to bust your bubble, but the T4 is not pressure rated like the T1 and the T3's.  they do handle more pressure than most pumps of their size, but not near the head height of its little sibblings. the T2 is also not as strong as the others. the T2 and the T4 can push an eductor just not to the capacity of the T1's and T3's.
G~
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03-07-2006, 01:04 PM
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#179
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Electrical G "EE" k
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 455
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Thanks for the link Geoff. Perhaps eductors won't work for this application. I may play with a design and see if I can come up with an eductor that doesn't need as much head to operate. I am guessing that the smaller the outlet is reduced on the eductor, the less water the eductor will suck into the output (and less increase in flow). I mainly want an eductor to increase the head (besides the flow gains). My CLS pumps will have almost 0 head and that kinda worries me.
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03-07-2006, 03:21 PM
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#180
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It can be rebuilt.
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
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in that case just go to a smaller outlet than the plumbing to the outlet. that will increase the head pressure. would only go down one size. if you go down more than that you can make the exit velocity dangerously high. it could damage the corals.
G~
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