need answers...quick!

[markak15]

I've spent my saturday morning trying to get the water flowing from the display tank, to the sump, and then back. It is working, however, it seems to depend on the degree of openess of the ball valve on the drain line. Here is how it's set up:

display tank --> overflow box (600 gph) --> 1.5 " PVC down to sump-->ball valve-->sump--> Mag 5 pump--> union-->ball valve-->1 " PVC back up to display tank.

If I start everything up and leave the drain ball valve totally open, it's like the water drains out of my overflow box TOO fast and makes gurgling sounds because the back of the overflow box isn't totally full. This causes the level in the display tank to slowly rise because water is trickling out of the overflow box. If I close the drain ball valve just enough, the overflow box stays full, it doesn't make noise, and I think the water is actually draining out more quickly even though the ball valve is restricting water flow. Is this normal to have to adjust the valve like this? Also, I've noticed that after everything is adjusted, the water level in the display tank drops slightly and ever so slowly over a period of 5-10 minutes until it seems to stabilize. I don't really understand why that is happening. I guess I just need to know if it's okay to use a ball valve to tweak a system like this and if this is normal to have to do this. I don't want any risk of a flood. thanks

mark

[reef_noob]

You're better off using a stockman mod for your overflow.
http://www.rl180reef.com/pages/stand...n_stockman.htm
This will reduce the gurgling sound and regulate the flow. I have them in both my refuge and main tank overflows.

[Mr.Reef]

Those hang on overflow box are tricky and can be noisey if not adjusted right. A built in overflow would give you less problems.

[capt2000]

hey mark,
the problem I see is flood potential. if your overflow can handle 600 but you may be retuning 300-400 it will only overflow that wide open. If you choke off what goes down to an unknown degree you can return more than you overflow. you may be able to get a close balance but seems like a fine line ajusting that side of the system

[reef_noob]

Agreed capt2000. You should be limiting your return to match your overflow capacity. I use a ball valve on my return line to match the overflow capacity.

As for mr. reef's idea, sure a built in overflow is best, but awful difficult to implement in a non pre-drilled tank and nearly impossible to do without draining the tank. Plus it requires a level of diy skill that some people don't have. I've been running overflows for almost a year now without any problems. Just make sure that your return lines have a siphon break in them and you'll be fine. Consider the stockman mod I suggesed above...they really work.

[markak15]

thanks for the tips..I will try that stockman mod. It's been running for over an hour now and seems to be real stable. I also tried pulling the plug on the pump to simulate a power outage. I had plenty of room in the sump for the extra water and when I plugged it back in everythign was up and going again. so I guess I'm all set.

[markak15]

i am still confused as to whether or not I have this working properly. My waterlevel is about 1/2 inch above the overflow box....is this normal? I was expecting it to be exactly level with the overflow box.

[reef_noob]

Can't quite picture it. Can you take a pic?
Is the water level in the main tank rising? If so you're pumping more water into the tank that the overflow can handle. This is probably because you have the ball valve on the overflow side. Open it all the way. If you still have the problem than you need to limit the return pump with a ball valve.

[Doug1]

I got the impression that the overflow will drain more than the return pump, but is NOISY at higher flow rates(normal) The Stockman or Durso mod will allow hi volume drainage without as much noise.
FWIW the overflow box itself , if unhampered will only drain the excess thats pumped back into the tank, the 600 gph rating gives you an idea what flow will overpower it, IE if you run a Mag9 that puts out 700gph at 3.5' of head(distance from pump to high point it has to push water) then yes you will pump more than the overflow can handle and it will overfill the main tank.

Can you possibly post a pic of the OVerflow, somethings not right to me

[markak15]

here is a picture of the overflow....

[markak15]

I should add, the tank has been running all day and been very stable. The water level isn't changing. THe return line is solid...nothing wrong there. I'm just not convinced I have the overflow/drain pipe set up right because of the issues I mentioned before. For some reason it only works when I have the ball valve on the drain line partially closed....and I don't really understand why.....but I guess if it works...who cares, right? Is it possible to use too large diameter pipe? I used 1" for my return and 1.5" for my drain just because that's what fit on my overflow box. thanks

mk

[Doug1]

I think that by closing the valve on the drain you are allowing water to partially fill the 1.5 pipe so that its not gulping so much air, creating noise. A Durso/Stockman does the same thing sorta without the valve restricting the line

[markak15]

yes, I agree, however, with the valve totally open...the system doesn't work. The display tank would overflow in about 60 seconds. If I close it partially, it works fine and the water level is steady. does that make sense to anyone?

[markak15]

also, when you have an overflow box like this one....what do you use to plug up the hole on the top once it's going?

[Loverotties]

The problem I see is if some now some algea or snail or calcium deposit i9n the half close valve,you'll have a flood.