Need a second opinion...again!

[motorslave]

Does this sound like a good set up ( I hope so since most of it is already purchased!! )
55gal reef, BB
20gal sump
AquaMedic Turbofloter multi skimmer
Gen-X 635gph return to spray bar
Gen-X 850gph external pushing CLS w/squid
440 watt VHO 2x10000 daylight, 1x1000050/50, 1x 10000 actinic
Sump will have 2 to 3 in LS and LR
RO unit
Future plans include auto top off, calcium reactor moon light and dimmer for the lights.
Tank will be loaded with LR and maybe 5 or 6 fish and as many types of coral as I can sensibly hold! (? )
Have I planned well? does this seem to be a good set up? All critiques welcome. Thanks (this is my first tank)

[grazhopr]

I would add a DI unit. That'd be a big plus. Pristine water, IMO, is key for a necessary clean start.
I like your simple approach. You may want to consider DIY a Nielsen Reactor and buy or build a CO2 based calcium reactor in the mid-long term (not necessary to start, but keep it in mind).
Once you know what you want to use, think about how you want to hook up everything (I diagram/drawing is paramount). How you want to plumb your system, how you want to top off, what conveniences you want for water changes, etc. Post it here and get wait for some feedback.

I've seen you around for quite sometime, and I never realized you didn't have a tank ! Go slow! It has worked for me.....so far....

[RWD]

Well you got the basics down but you will need things like a fan or two if you are using a canopy. Is the tank drilled? If not you will need an overflow. Avoid large fish so the tank is not overcrouded.

[motorslave]

Not drilled, overflow will be ordered tomorrow and two ice cap 4 inch smart fans were left out of the picture.(plus the back of the canopy is open the width of the tank for the plumbing.
Grazhopr, Ill take your advice on tnr DI unit and a CA reactor is planned for the future, along with a few creature comforts.
Thanks to both of you, always good feed back. Im sure after a few more little changes Ill be back for more opinions!

[orion25]

Is your stand going to be custom built or one from the LFS. If it is a LFS model The 20g sump will not fit in it if you are using a standard 20g tank. A 55g is a narrow (front to back) tank and this is the problem I ran into. I had to use a 10g tank for my sump. MY DSB is in the tank and I use a CPR Aquafuge. The sump only has the skimmer and return pump in it along with the heater and an occasional bag of Carbon.

RB

[yardboy]

Yea, I can tell you about the "bigger is better" routine (I have a 55 sumpon a 150 tank, plenty of room for equipment, but I can hardly get any of it out for maintenance, due to the size of the sump in the stand!) I use a 10 gallon wet/dry without the bioballs for a sump in my 70 and a 10 gallon tank for a sump on my 40 gallon system. On the 70 it's somewhat borderline, but on the 40 it's plenty big. Those darn 55's are so narrow. On the other hand, a 20L is narrow too. They are one of my favorite tanks.

[tims]

Sounds good so far...
keep an eye on the tank temps if you decide to up grade to MH lighting..

if you run into a problem with the 20 L under the tank. one thing i have done before was to use teo 10 g. tanks.. one was raised higher then the other and did a crude over flow into the other. it was a bugger to set up but once it was done everything worked fine..
jst an idea if you run into problems..

[motorslave]

Actualy the cabinet is custom. Nothing is going to be under the stand. Everything will be behind the display, the cabinet is 16 inches wider and 15 inches deeper than the tank. the space behind will not be visible but will be accesable via an access door on each side. That 15 inches will fit the tank i got for a sump with room for plumbing and extra stuff. the canapy is 16 inches tall and seperate but will look not to be seperate. The reason for the extra width is to fit a custom tank at a later date. The reason for the enclosed "wet room" directly behind the display is two fold. Bad knees and kids. Nothing will be visable from the side and the access doors will have child proof latches on them as will the doors under the tank which will store salt, extra hardware etc... The main objective to this big oak beast is easier maintenance and invivsible mechanics. Im hoping that my convinceing my wife it realy isnt too big for the house will pay off in the design!

[motorslave]

The open space behind the display will not be covered, but open for ventilation.
Ill post some good pics as soon as it gets here.