Mixed Kalk will not clear – Adding Kalk via Auto Top-off

[goodfortune]

I am thinking of making an auto top-off device to add Kalkwasser to my sump for evaporative make up. I am planning to use a 5 gallon reservoir and a power head, activated by a float switch, to pump Kalk over to the sump. My questions are:

- Whenever I mix Kalk (1 heaping tbsp Ms Wages Picking Lime to 1 gallon of RO/DI water) the solution never completely clears, even after being left alone for a whole day. Is this normal?

- Do you have to control the rate at which the powerhead pumps Kalk over to the sump to prevent pH spikes? Can you add to much Kalk to the sump at one time?

- The water level in the reservoir, when full, will be higher than the water level in the sump. How can I set up the auto top off so that it will not continue to siphon Kalk into the sump after the float switch turns the power head off?

Any comments, thoughts, and suggestions, as always, are welcome!

[Stang69]

Why do a auto top off why not drip it at a slow rate so as to keep the sump lvls the same as the evap rate. Just an idea. It will take some fine tuning but it can be done



Jeff

[yardboy]

Originally Posted by goodfortune

I am thinking of making an auto top-off device to add Kalkwasser to my sump for evaporative make up. I am planning to use a 5 gallon reservoir and a power head, activated by a float switch, to pump Kalk over to the sump. My questions are:

- Whenever I mix Kalk (1 heaping tbsp Ms Wages Picking Lime to 1 gallon of RO/DI water) the solution never completely clears, even after being left alone for a whole day. Is this normal?
I wouldn't worry too much about it, I've used the same mix and generally it cleared completely, but not always.

- Do you have to control the rate at which the powerhead pumps Kalk over to the sump to prevent pH spikes? Can you add to much Kalk to the sump at one time? You can definitely add too much kalk, but if your float switch is sensitive enough, it shouldn't be a problem. pH can get way too high if you make up too much at one time. How large is your sump and tank?
- The water level in the reservoir, when full, will be higher than the water level in the sump. How can I set up the auto top off so that it will not continue to siphon Kalk into the sump after the float switch turns the power head off? I had this problem and found that just making sure the end of the delivery tube was higher than the reservoir would break the siphon. It might mean a good drop into the sump, but you can always use more tubing, as long as you maintain the air gap.
Any comments, thoughts, and suggestions, as always, are welcome!

[goodfortune]

Stang69 - Thanks for your input! I have tried the drip auto top-off method, which I agree works well once you get the drip rate to equal evaporative losses. However, I had problems with my dripper (DIY - 2.5 gallon gas can with IV tubing and roller valve) clogging. If I bought a Kent doser, would it be less subject to clogging?

Yardboy - Thanks for your input as well! The air gap is what I was thinking of; I just wasn't sure where to put it (e.g. tubing raised above the sump and resevior water levels, hole in tubing from powerhead to sump, etc.) Also, what do you think of having the powerhead pump into the tank return overflow, leading to the sump?

[SPC]

I drilled a 1/8" hole in the tubbing that is located inside my 40 gallon resevior. The hole is located just above the high water mark. When the pump is running a small stream of water will flow from this hole (I keep a lid on my resevior), and when the pump kicks off the hole causes a siphon break.
Steve

[yardboy]

Good,

Your DIY is as good or better than the Kent, which consists of the same components. Ditto on the clogging, though I've used that method too and liked it. Running the topoff to the overflow would work and mix your kalk well to eliminate "hotspots" but you might have problems with a pump to run it that high. Your setup might be able to handle it though. SPC's idea is good too, I never thought of that, though I've never tried to drill a hole in flexible tubing. Also, I always try to run my kalk water close to the intake of the skimmer, to derive some benefit from the precipitating reaction of kalk to phosphate, so it can be exported easier, don't know if it really helps though

[tdwyatt]

Originally Posted by yardboy

...it might mean a good drop to the (water level)...

hav ethe tup clipped to a piece of 1" diameter PVC pipe with slots cut in the bottom of the pipe. Place the slotted end in the sump, fix it in place with zip ties, then affix the flexible pipe from the reactor to the top of the pvc so that the output from the flexible pipe from the reactor goes into the pvc pipe (USE A ZIP TIE AGAIN). No splash, no noise and plenty of air for the siphon break.

hth