Actually, these are the two separate questions:
1. How to make an enclosure for the refugium, that blocks light (so the light can be left on at the night), with attention to fire prevention.
2. Is the refugium worth all this troubles.
I can add some food for thought even more:
3. How to keep refugium clean, without
red slime, dinoflagellates and acoel worms.
About them:
1. Will the thin plywood box on the wood frame be safe enough, or it should be the sheet metal box? How to prevent the light from escaping from ventilation holes on the top? How to construct the box for making maintenance of the tank possible - doors somewhere or remove all bulky box as a cake cover?
2. I have BB tank, still have nitrates and phosphates. Will use any means to improve water quality.
3. Take a deep breath and try to follow me:
Somehow I wasn't able to keep any refugium without red cyano, acoel worms and dinoflagellares for long
- The big refugium, 20L with DSB, has one fish-refugee, that was fed,
- the small, 5g Duplex, or cryptic refugium, not fed, all the same,
- the separate 5g tank, not connected to anything, not fed at all (a drp once not every week). Still the same, at lesser extent.
Flow was 20x+turnover, from one end - to another.
Eventually disconnected from the main display - the fish suffered.
What to do for keeping the successful (at least healthy and clean) refugium? Any tips or tricks?
Illustrations:
The whole complex, "T" shaped (why not inside the stand - low ceiling, 11" height clearance only):

Previous refugium, 20XH, that had suffer the same fate:

20L DSB fuge, before and after:

5g Dupex, or cryptic zone refugium, before and after:
