If you were to start reef tank today, How would you set it up?

[Rob_Reef_Keeper]

If you were to start a 58G SPS/LPS/clam reef (36x18x21) tank today.

How would you set it up and why? (LR/Sand)

Equipment nad why? (pumps/lighting/skimmer/etc)

How long to stage the tank before adding inhabitants?

[skeety]

Originally Posted by Rob_Reef_Keeper

Keeper of the hair algae

HAHAHAHAH

LOVE that ranking!!!

hmmm...good question. Gonna get a LOT of different answers on this one! hahaha

I'd set mine up BB (with Starboard). Mainly cause I don't have a tank set up that's BB, and would like to try it.

I'd have the tank drilled, and put in a spray-bar/closed loop. I'd definitely steal Reef_noob's idea and make something like this.

I'd also build a refugium AND a sump..separate.

I'd go with MH lighting with VHO actinics.

I'd get about 60lbs of LR, and I'd cycle the tank for 2-3 months.

[reef_noob]

>I'd definitely steal Reef_noob's idea

Come now, you don't have to steal it. I'm licensing the intellectual property for a very reasonable price.

[reef_noob]

I would go with a pre-drilled tank possibly acrylic with a 20gal sump (probably a custom acrylic) below and a separate 20 gal refuge above the main tank. I'd add a mr-1 or mr-2 skimmer. I'd either order or have built a cabinet/stand that would contain all the equipment (as opposed to my current stuff everywhere approach) In addition it would have a ventilated canopy for diy lighting and to hold the refuge.

I'd have diy 2X250 hqi and vho actinics with remote ballasts and moonlights.

Bare bottom with cutting board (cheaper than starboard) and I'd definitely steal my own idea and create a stand with built in spraybar. I'd have a cls (preferably drilled rather than over the top) with eductors and some sort of switching device. I'd attempt to get > 1200 gph total flow between the sump return, refuge overflow, stand spraybar and cls. If necessary, I'd add a tunze stream.

I'd go with 70 lbs of live rock, which I would cook for 2 months in complete darkness before ever introducing into the tank.

I'd set up a calcium reactor(possibly a nilsen reactor) and an auto top off system(tunze osmolator)

I'd aquascape the rock using david grigor's fiberglass rod/drilling technique,(article here) and I'd let it run with full photoperiod for a month before adding any critters. I'd start by adding astrea and cerith snails as cleanup crew(no hermits). My first fish would be a pair of clowns(easy, pretty, hardy)

[skeety]

Originally Posted by reef_noob

>Come now, you don't have to steal it. I'm licensing the intellectual property for a very reasonable price.

Let me guess... you take payment in frag's?

[reef_noob]

Originally Posted by skeety

Let me guess... you take payment in frag's?

Oh ya, you betcha!

[yardboy]

I like my setup except for a couple of things. First, using the fiberglass rod (I used acrylic) technique lured me into such an open structure that I don't have as much room for corals as I'd like. My fish spend too much time hidden and I've gotten much more fond of lps corals, which like a big open area. I"d also use Ocean Motions's current switching devices, though they are pricey. I'd also toss my Mag 18's in favor of a single big pump like a Sequence, to lower electrical and noise levels. I'd also build the tank against the wall with a huge fish room behind it to put all my other tanks and equipment.

[craigGP]

first off, i'd want a fish room with floor drains, countertop with sink, cabinets, exaust fan and windows to keep air fresh, remove excess heat and humidity, prevent buildup of CO2 in room. if it was a larger tank, i'd build it into the wall, but a 58 i'd probably put on the adjoining wall and drill thru the wall for access.

on the tank, i'd probably start by drilling the tank for a CL. i'd like to try to do a return manifold in the canopy like: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issu...2003/short.htm
only on the closed loop instead of the sump return. i'd incorporate a OceansMotions wave maker into the manifold design. CL pump would be rated somewhere in the 1800-2000 gph range. this would be plenty since the output would not be divided between multiple outlets, but instead sequentially alternate full output between outlets.

probably do BB for an sps tank, with seperate sump and fuge. i'd have a DSB in the sump (i'm not doing BB to eliminate DSB, only to allow for max circulation without sandstorm) and have either strong PC lighting or weak MH lighting to grow chaetomorpha for nutrient export. the return pump in the sump wouldn't have to be huge, as flow thru the refuge should be slow anyway. maybe a quiet one 3000. that idea of reef noob's is pretty slick. maybe run that with an in tank pump to minimize the number of holes in the tank...

lighting would be 2x 250W DE halides and skimmer would be ER 5-3 like i have now. i'd probably do 14K bulbs and have actinics just for dawn/dusk effects. the 14K would give the color i'd want, so no supplementation while they are on. i'd cure and cook the LR outside the tank. since rock usually spits out detritus in the first few months in tank, i'd just get that done with before adding to the tank to keep as much nutrient out as possible. calcium reactor would be a must too, as well as a controller for temp, ph, etc that would allow automation by computer.

gotta have RO/DI, one of the smaller GPD models to maximize membrane efficiency. set it up with auto topoff on timer for the tank and do auto topoff in a brute trash can so i always have water on hand when needed (and i don't forget to turn off unit when filling).

after cooking the rock and adding to the tank, getting the fuge cycled, etc., i'd probably wait out the algae and cyano cycles before i started adding corals. might take as long as 3-4 mo. but hopefully shorter since such effort was made to minimize the nutrient load added to the tank from the start. i'd probably go ahead and add cleanup crew (turbo, ceriths, astrea, stomatella for snails, emerald crabs, skunk cleaner shrimps) and basic fish after N cycle is done (which would mean they would be there during the algae cycle).

[Rob_Reef_Keeper]

I like reef_noob's idea. I wanted some sand though.

I have a tunze stream, Euroreef ES5-3, 250W PFO HQI and 2 95W VHO's actincs already.

The key is what and how to add the rest.

I have no room for a refugium so I will not have one. The tank is drilled for the overflow (reef-ready) but thats it.

[Rob_Reef_Keeper]

So here is my latest plan allot of the euipment from today's setup will be reused after a good bleaching.

Lights 1 - 250W HQI 14K, 2 95W VHO actinics
Euroreef ES5-3 skimmer (may upgrade if needed or add another)
PVC spraybar of some sort behind the LR and to support the LR powered with a 450-500 GPH pump
Tunze Stream 6000 (1850 GPH)
mag 9 sump return
Re-plumb the overflow drain to be able to support a filter sock
Want a CA reactor but will see about that

The outstanding issues:
Sand or no sand
45 lbs of LR (trying to figure out how to choose good LR over bad)
Still may hire a LFS or someone with a clue to come and set this whole thing up

[Blue]

I think if i where setting up a 58 gallon tank i would try to keep it pretty simple i would do the following.

-Geismen 230 Pendant Offers plenty of light and i just love how the look
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merch...Code=Giesemann

-Precision marine Sump because its a nice clean looking sump. http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merch...y_Code=CprSump

-PM Bullet 2 Skimmer awsome skimmer think it would do great on the tank.
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merch...tegory_Code=PM

Prob would run a Mag12 as the return Pump because they are strong but also small. http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merch...egory_Code=MAG

Then i would run a 3/4" Sea swirl on my return line http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merch...ode=Wavemaking

I would run a Panworld100PX on a closed Loop for more flow http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merch..._Code=Panworld

I would run the tank with a 2" sand bed because i like sand and i would have about 75lbs of fiji LR cause thats what i like. Of course you still need some heaters and plumbing and stuff but i think u atleast get the point as to how i would do it. Oh did i mention you cant gett all that stuff a premiumaquatics LOL


Nathan

[Blue]

I just realized that 58 gallon is 36" and not 24" So for lighting i would use an a dual 250K HQi Retro fit with 2 T5 Actincs and i would use the phoneix bulbs for the halides.

Blue

[Rob_Reef_Keeper]

Blue,

I had the tank setup pretty much similar to your ideas. Ended up having allot of problems since the stand is so small to get all the pieces under the stand.

I had the closed loop but all it made was a mess on the floor and allot of current high in the tank.

In making changes over the past 2 years to get this tank corrected I have destroyed the ecosystem beyond balance.

I think it is best that I just tear it down and get out of reefing period.

Thanks

[skeety]

Originally Posted by Rob_Reef_Keeper

I think it is best that I just tear it down and get out of reefing period.

Thanks

you can't do that. I mean....Reef is apperantly, your middle name.

[Rob_Reef_Keeper]

Wont need that name if there is no more reef. I just dont get it and I have stressed out over this way too much.