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| General Reef Discussion In this forum we discuss issues related to keeping marine and reef aquariums in a friendly flame-free environment. |
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10-28-2009, 02:55 PM
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#1
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 73
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Hyposalinity or Copper?
Good afternoon everyone. I have determined my DT is invested with Marine ich. I already lost 2 fish do to the disease and don't want my remaining pair of clowns to perish too. I would have treated the clowns immediately, but did not have a QT setup.
The QT is now setup with a sponge filter seeding in the DT(7 days). I have researched treatment and can not decide between copper and hyposalinity. Each seem to have their ups and downs, so I decided to ask the experts.
Also, I plan on leaving the DT fishless for at least 9 weeks. Thanks in advance for your input.
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10-28-2009, 03:08 PM
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#2
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Son of Jor El

Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Springfield MO
Posts: 4,615
Reviews: 52
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I tend to think that hypo is easier on the fish and lasts about as long as the fallow period. Some fish do not handle copper very well but clowns are pretty tolerant. There are however a few strains of ich resistent to hyposalinity. They are pretty rare but out there. So I probably didn't clear up anything.  I tend to favor hypo myself.
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Jeremy http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f7...ef-119089.html
Did I ever tell you about the time Brasky went hunting? Well anyway, Brasky decides he's gonna hunt down all four members of the Banana Splits. He stalks and kills every one of them with a machete. They all beg for their lives, except Fleagul.
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10-28-2009, 03:15 PM
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#3
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Shark
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 2,266
Reviews: 108
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If its just the 2 clowns, I would put them into the q/t at their regular salinity. Then immediately treat with a product called "CLOUT" its pretty amazing how fast it worked for me when q/ting new fish.
You could really use any fish safe ich remedy. In the q/t, you are not bound to just copper or hypo you have a few more options. Leaving the DT fallow for 9 weeks is a good idea. You may want to rethink your q/t filter, I think your sponge filter will prove to be inadequate for 2 adult fish.
Good luck.
Last edited by Mr.Peanut; 10-28-2009 at 03:20 PM.
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10-28-2009, 03:54 PM
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#4
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It's a reef life!!
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: St Marys, GA
Posts: 953
Reviews: 51
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I prefer cuprimine and I've never lost a fish with it!
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10-29-2009, 06:05 AM
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#5
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Peanut
If its just the 2 clowns, I would put them into the q/t at their regular salinity. Then immediately treat with a product called "CLOUT" its pretty amazing how fast it worked for me when q/ting new fish.
You could really use any fish safe ich remedy. In the q/t, you are not bound to just copper or hypo you have a few more options. Leaving the DT fallow for 9 weeks is a good idea. You may want to rethink your q/t filter, I think your sponge filter will prove to be inadequate for 2 adult fish.
Good luck.
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According to the research I have done so far the only proven remedy for ich is copper (copper based medicines) and hyposalinity. Also, I have back up HOB filters if needed, but I plan on doing 20% water changes 2 times per week in the QT.
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10-29-2009, 06:13 AM
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#6
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I've got the REEF rash!
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 34,168
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Good luck with your clowns.I wouldn't worry about WC while you have them in the QT,because that can add stress to them and if you do,don't forget to adjust the copper back to where it was before the WC.
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10-29-2009, 08:36 AM
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#7
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BIG SMELLY MOD

Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Denham Springs, LA
Posts: 18,742
Reviews: 21
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I agree with copper the best route here. You have a QT tank so why not use the most effective treatment.
Most all the reef safe don't work or are not very effective and the hypo-salinity may or my not work.
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Vince aka VINNIE 
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10-29-2009, 08:40 AM
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#8
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"Just keep swimming..."
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Sanford, north carolina
Posts: 787
Reviews: 28
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since their clowns the copper is what I would do. with the hypo i've never had the best of luck with. the api super ick cure works awesome if you want to give that a try it's for fresh and saltwater use.
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10-29-2009, 09:28 AM
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#9
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Shark
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Bradenton FL
Posts: 1,244
Reviews: 5
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never heard it called hyposalinity... never knew the term existed until now... i just always did a fresh water dip and watch things just fall off, though its prob not the best way to do things and it can be hard on fish but its alway been effective
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10-29-2009, 09:45 AM
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#10
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Shark
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 2,266
Reviews: 108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antdizzle
never heard it called hyposalinity... never knew the term existed until now... i just always did a fresh water dip and watch things just fall off, though its prob not the best way to do things and it can be hard on fish but its alway been effective
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A FW dip is different than a hypo treatment. Hypo is gradually lowering the salinity from 1.025 to 1.009 then maintaining 1.009 for about 8 weeks.
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10-29-2009, 09:49 AM
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#11
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antdizzle
never heard it called hyposalinity... never knew the term existed until now... i just always did a fresh water dip and watch things just fall off, though its prob not the best way to do things and it can be hard on fish but its alway been effective
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Here is a great post on Hyposalinity. Lee seems to really know what he is talking about and has several other informative posts.
http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/...t-process.html
Here is a post on Marine Ich.
http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/...ths-facts.html
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10-29-2009, 09:52 AM
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#12
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 73
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So if I was to use Copper, how do I remove the copper from the tank? I think I have read carbon removes it?
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10-29-2009, 09:58 AM
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#13
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Shark
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 2,266
Reviews: 108
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Hypo can be very effective if done properly.
Probably the most important tool is a refractometer. A REFRACTOMETER IS A MUST. A swing-arm hydrometer is absolutely useless when trying to perform a hypo treatment. Salinity must be maintained at 1.009 a deviation of as little as .002 in salinity will botch the whole deal and allow the ich to carry on. Swing arm hydrometers cannot measure accurately enough to do it right.
Ich needs a certain osmotic pressure to finish its reproductive cycle. At 1.009, the life cycle is interrupted and that particular strain of ich slowly dies off. Its basically due to old age and that there are no new ich babies to carry on the family name.
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10-29-2009, 02:43 PM
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#15
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Peanut
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I read your thread and it sounds like hyposalinity worked well for you. What did you use to keep your PH up? I plan on using baking soda.Also, would a carbon filter help keep the ammonia level down?
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