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Old 02-07-2010, 03:03 PM   #1
coralshrimp77
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how long does live rock take to grow on dead coral?


Hi i bought 2 pounds of live rock for my 10 gallon tank. How much live rock do i need? and how long does it take to grow on dead coral? I have had it in my tank for 3-4 days and i don't see little critters yet.
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Old 02-07-2010, 03:12 PM   #2
bcrum51
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on dead coral? I'm kinda lost what makes rock live is the beneficial bacteria that grows on the rock and typical the rule of thumb is 1lb/gal of water IE 10lbs for a 10g
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Old 02-07-2010, 08:24 PM   #3
coralshrimp77
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i meant i had bought 2 pounds of live rock, and i have dead brain coral in my tank. I wanted to know when the 2 pounds of live rock would start to live on the dead brain coral.
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Old 02-07-2010, 08:46 PM   #4
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In 10 gallons you should have 10 - 15 lbs of rock as the brain coral,it won't come back to life.
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Old 02-07-2010, 09:50 PM   #5
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The bacteria in/on the live rock will start to grow on the brain coral skeleton fairly quickly if there is a nitrogenous waste source. What other organisms are in the tank supplying a source of nitrogen for the bacteria to grow and multiply?
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Old 02-07-2010, 11:38 PM   #6
coralshrimp77
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i have a sea horse and a coral shrimp
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Old 02-08-2010, 12:36 AM   #7
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How long has this tank been set up? How long has the seahorse been in the tank? What kind of seahorse?
What other biological filtration do you have for the tank?
Skimmer? Sump? Refugium?
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Old 02-08-2010, 09:46 AM   #8
coralshrimp77
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I have a Aqueon filter, a heater i have had the seahorse for about 2 weeks so far. the species of sea horse is a Hippocampus erectus. I have had the shrimp for about a month and a half. The tanks has ben set up 2 months ago.
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:20 AM   #9
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OK, I would suggest, to be on the safe side, to do continual testing of ammonia.
Seahorses are notorious for causing poor water quality, and, they succumb to various problems due to poor water quality. The minimum recommended size for a PAIR of seahorses is 29-30g so by extension I would assume 15g for your one erectus. Less water means much more husbandry to keep control of quality.
I'm hoping that the live rock you added was COMPLETELY cycled before adding it to your tank or that in itself could cause a mini cycle in your tank, producing ammonia from any die off while in transport.
Unless your seahorse tank is in a very cold area, I would suggest you loose the heater as the recommended temperature for seahorse keeping is 68 to 74F.
While your seahorse may come from warmer water, in a tank, the warmer water leads to exponentially increase bad bacteria like vibriosis as temps increase above 74.
Again, seahorses are very prone to bacterial infestations.
If you do have to keep the heater working, make sure it is protected so the seahorse doesn't wrap it's tail around the hot part, getting burned and infected.
This does not mean that one cannot keep a seahorse under non recommended conditions as you have at the moment, but it means that odds of long term success are severely diminished. For every success story under such conditions, there are many more failures happening, costing needless seahorse lives.
Have you done research on seahorse.org?
In my opinion, it is the best source of information for seahorse keepers on the internet.
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:32 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayjay View Post
OK, I would suggest, to be on the safe side, to do continual testing of ammonia.
Seahorses are notorious for causing poor water quality, and, they succumb to various problems due to poor water quality. The minimum recommended size for a PAIR of seahorses is 29-30g so by extension I would assume 15g for your one erectus. Less water means much more husbandry to keep control of quality.
I'm hoping that the live rock you added was COMPLETELY cycled before adding it to your tank or that in itself could cause a mini cycle in your tank, producing ammonia from any die off while in transport.
Unless your seahorse tank is in a very cold area, I would suggest you loose the heater as the recommended temperature for seahorse keeping is 68 to 74F.
While your seahorse may come from warmer water, in a tank, the warmer water leads to exponentially increase bad bacteria like vibriosis as temps increase above 74.
Again, seahorses are very prone to bacterial infestations.
If you do have to keep the heater working, make sure it is protected so the seahorse doesn't wrap it's tail around the hot part, getting burned and infected.
This does not mean that one cannot keep a seahorse under non recommended conditions as you have at the moment, but it means that odds of long term success are severely diminished. For every success story under such conditions, there are many more failures happening, costing needless seahorse lives.
Have you done research on seahorse.org?
In my opinion, it is the best source of information for seahorse keepers on the internet.
+1. Good luck!
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:53 AM   #11
coralshrimp77
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i clean the tank every 2 weeks and everything is going fine right now, i will try to pick up some ammonia testing kits. The seahorse also needs to be in water tempture of 75 degrees so i could not make it colder.
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Old 02-08-2010, 11:27 PM   #12
coralshrimp77
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ok i picked up some ammonia testing kits, it read 0.25-0.50 . I also picked up a feather duster and a fish. The sea horse is doing quite fine right now there is no problems, and the people form the fish store said i am doing everything perfectly.
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Old 02-09-2010, 01:09 AM   #13
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First off there should be NO ammonia reading at all!!!!
You are burning the gills of the seahorse and now the fish you have added.
The seahorse is NOT DOING FINE in ammonia levels above zero.
The tank is not big enough for the seahorse let alone adding a fish. The fish may not even be a suitable one for the seahorse to be in with. Now you have to take remedial action to prevent the death of the seahorse.
You could do water changes, add prime or chloramX to bind the ammonia, but please, please do something fast to save that seahorse and probably the other fish you have added.
Get a larger tank also, or be prepared to be doing large water changes VERY frequently.
The store giving you that advice is so wrong you should never deal there again.
You don't have to take my word for it as I've only been keeping and raising seahorses for 4 1/2 years now, but on seahorse.org there are long time hobbyists that know far more than I'll ever know and far more than almost any LFS does about seahorses.
Please don't take this as a personal attack, but an attack on stores that tell unsuspecting new hobbyists, things that are so incorrect.
So many stores will not consider telling it like it should be because they won't sell as much product that way.
Also, many of them just plain don't know much, especially about keeping seahorses.
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:35 AM   #14
coralshrimp77
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ok i just did a water change and i think the ammonia was high because of the uneaten mysis shrimp
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:48 AM   #15
coralshrimp77
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there is one small fish and a feather duster, and also the people at the fish store know what they are doing. They have been in business for 25 years. The ammonia also dropped a lot since the water change and i cant get a bigger tank tanks cost a lot and i would have to wait about a month to add the sea horse to the new tank because of nitrates being to high.
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