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| General Reef Discussion In this forum we discuss issues related to keeping marine and reef aquariums in a friendly flame-free environment. |
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05-29-2006, 07:14 PM
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#1
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Shark
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Newfoundland
Posts: 1,982
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help me with plumbing
I've only ever done stand alone systems so I need help...
I went to home depot but decided I don't know what I'm doing
I need to know somethings because I want this done ASAP.
I have all the stuff that came with an AGA overflow. So I need to get from the bulkhead to sump and back to bulkhead.
I plan on using flex-tubing. So how does the flex-tube attach to the bulkehead securely? Should I put a union and ball valve near the bulkhead? What's the best way of attaching flex-tubing to union/bulkhead?
Pictures could help... description would be great... basically what I need and the amount of it...
I want to get this as correct as possible the first time around
Thanks so much!
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__________________
-Bill
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05-29-2006, 07:33 PM
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#2
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The Bitter Mod
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 5,586
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Is your bulkhead thread X slip or thread x thread? If its slip you'll use pvc primer and cement to attach the pvc to both the bulkhead and union/valve. If its double threaded you'll use a threaded pvc female adaptor to attach to the bulkhead with teflon tape.
__________________
Kick over the walls,cause governments to fall
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Let fury have the hour
Anger can be power
If you know that you can use it
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05-29-2006, 07:35 PM
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#3
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Great Hammerhead Shark
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Southern United States
Posts: 1,471
Reviews: 31
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I honestly could not type out and adivse what needs to be done. the best thing I can tell you to do is goto the photo section and look at what other people have done.
on my tank I have a bulk head that goes through the glass I glued a piece of 1" pvc to the bulk head then the flex hose (the part that looks like a pool hose cleaning hose) connected to that (the fit was soo tight that I did not need glue and it does not leak.) to the intake on the filter system. Then the return I took my mag 12 in the sump pump and stuck a 3/4 barb on it that has 3/4 id (inside diamiter) sugical hose (the clear hose on roles at HD) stuck it on the barb and returned it to the bulk head that returns to the tank. I hope this is clear you might be able to see it on my pics.
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05-30-2006, 09:40 AM
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#4
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The Ninja MOD

Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Planet P.....Why Me?
Posts: 13,624
Reviews: 23
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Hmmm, first thing is keep it simple! Are you talking about flexable PVC or the tubing? For ease of construction I would go with the flex PVC. It will fit into regular PVC fittings and wont restrict flow like if you had to use barbed fittings with the tubing.
Where the flex (PVC) has the most value is in reducing the number of flow robbing elbows and 45's and also reduction of that annoying reverberation caused by the return pump vibration. On the drains you could hard plumb to the sump as there is no vibration to worry about and this may actually make it easier to add a noise reduction set up when it gets to the sump. (it gets loud with all that water splashing into the sump!) On the return side of the pump I would attacj a true union ball valve to the exit side of the pump (both sides if its an external) this will allow you to colse of the return plumbing for pump cleaning etc. and when your done you just put it back on! After the valve is where I would use the flex. Use it all the way up to what ever you have in mind for the return set up. The flex PVC can be a pain to work with but if you soak it in a sink or tub of real hot water it gets more pliable and you can shape it as you need. Regular PVC cement is all you need to secure it.
Now, the Flex will reduce vibration but even this will create some noise if it lays on the top of the tank once it gets to the returns. Do you have bulkheads for the returns? Id so this is the best bet. If not you can use a small piece of foam under a contact point or my favorite is the really thick and squishy mouse pads cut to size and doubled up. I also use these under my external pumps to stop vibration noises from travelling through the stand!
If you can, get some pics form all sides so we can get a better idea of what you need to do! Feel free to PM me with any other questions. Ill be going to bed in a bit but will be back this afternoon (I work nights)
HTH
Robert
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05-30-2006, 08:23 PM
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#5
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Shark
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Newfoundland
Posts: 1,982
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Hey all thanks for the help
let's see if we can figure this out
I've attached pictures of the bulkheads so that you can help me figure out the correct way of attaching the tubing. The flex pvc sounds like the way to go Robert.
Alright the pump is external so I'll need two union ball valves. The ones I have seen are either slip/slip or thread/thread. It would make sense to me to have slip/thread but I didn't see these for sale?
the tank is on the stand right now but it is slightly uneven! So I'm going to shimmy one side and place it in it's final location tomorrow. It looks like I have to order parts online so I'd like to order sooner rather than later
thanks!
__________________
-Bill
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05-30-2006, 08:28 PM
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#6
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The Bitter Mod
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 5,586
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Personaly I would ditch the barbed hose connections and get thread X thread.
__________________
Kick over the walls,cause governments to fall
How can you refuse it
Let fury have the hour
Anger can be power
If you know that you can use it
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05-30-2006, 08:31 PM
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#7
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The Ninja MOD

Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Planet P.....Why Me?
Posts: 13,624
Reviews: 23
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Are those hose barbs? For the bulkheads, what are you going to do on the inside of the tank? Leave them or are you going to add soemthing like lock line? The lockline needs threads. I would go slip slip. (personal pref) On my tank I am just leaving the bulkheads bare on the inside. Slip slip will allow you to go right to the bulkhead. You could come off with an elbow if you wanted to in order to make things fit better if needed. nThreaded or slip will work. If threaded then you have to tape the threads but if it leaks you can re-do it. With slip once its glued you have to replace and re-do if it leaks. I would order extra either way as its best to plan for a mistake or a break!
Robert
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05-30-2006, 08:39 PM
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#8
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Shark
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Newfoundland
Posts: 1,982
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the bulkheads came with an AGA overflow kit (although the tank and overflows aren't AGA)
Either way the bulkheads are slip on the inside of the tank and whatever you see on the outside.
So a press fit on the inside of the tank is no good? I'd have to cement it?
So if I needed to replace I;d have to replace the entire return line and bulkhead not only the bulkhead...
there's not many reefers around here so really I've only seen pictures of plumbing all local tanks I've seen have been stand alone systems... so I know I'm being slow here but please bare with me
__________________
-Bill
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05-30-2006, 08:50 PM
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#9
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Reefless Reefer
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Durham, NC
Posts: 20,559
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do those barb fittings come off of the bulkheads?
G~
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My Build Thread
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05-30-2006, 08:50 PM
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#10
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The Ninja MOD

Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Planet P.....Why Me?
Posts: 13,624
Reviews: 23
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I see youre in Newfoundland. Do you have regular PVC fittings there or metric? (pardon my ignorance) Order new bulkheads unless you can remove the barbed fittings from the ones in the pictures. The items in your pictures are for tubing not flex PVC. That type of set up generally will rob a bit of flow as it is more restrictive. It can be used though, just use a different type of hose and clamps to attach. Check with our sponsors if you dont already have a source and look into the "plumbing" sections.
Can you post a pic or teo of the ares of the tank that will have bulkheads so we can see the whole project?
Robert
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05-30-2006, 08:54 PM
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#11
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Shark
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Newfoundland
Posts: 1,982
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No guys the barb fittings do not come off...
I will never again assume that a package will come with what I want
okay a few more pics
__________________
-Bill
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05-30-2006, 08:57 PM
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#12
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Shark
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Newfoundland
Posts: 1,982
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by motorslave
I see youre in Newfoundland. Do you have regular PVC fittings there or metric? (pardon my ignorance)
Robert
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haha
nope we use inches for this type of thing
__________________
-Bill
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05-30-2006, 09:06 PM
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#13
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The Ninja MOD

Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Planet P.....Why Me?
Posts: 13,624
Reviews: 23
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Okay, looks like the bulkheads are slip on the side that the Durso and return PVC attach, correct? The fact that everything goes through the bottom makes flow restrictions less of an issue! The drain can go basically right to the sump and the return goes straight up. Get yourself some slipxslip bulkheads. On the inside of the overflow you dont need to cement. Just the outside allthough the return may need to be just to prevent loss if its not a tight fit. You COULD also get threadxthread bulkheads and have everything screw in. This would make it easier to repair potential leaks and teardown/maintainence would be easier also...thats the way I would go but its up to you! By the pictures all the intank is a no brainer. For the return all you have to do is get from the pump to the bulkhead with the flex PVC. Lay it all out before gluing aand consider your cleaning routines. Make sure everything is accessable and easy to deal with, look at it, think about it, THEN glue!!! Depending on where youre pump sits in regards to the return bulkhead you may have a straight shot to it! If you go with the threaded bulkheads, get teflon tape and threaded male/slip female adapters to transition from flex PVC to bulkhead.
Robert
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05-30-2006, 09:13 PM
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#14
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Shark
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Newfoundland
Posts: 1,982
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Threaded does seem to me to make the most sense
These adapters are easy to find? Should home depot have them or any online fishsupplies store?
__________________
-Bill
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05-30-2006, 09:15 PM
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#15
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The Ninja MOD

Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Planet P.....Why Me?
Posts: 13,624
Reviews: 23
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Home Depot. slowes, Ace any hardware store. Standard schedule 40 stuff!
Robert
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