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Old 08-27-2009, 06:41 PM   #1
gbmortie
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Help me do everything right this time


I am getting a 90 gallon tank this weekend to replace my 55 that I've had for 2 years. I will have plenty of LR (my tank is full and this one comes with about 40 lbs). I just want to make sure I get it aquascaped and everything right the first time. Should I put starboard down on the bottom? I've heard of that but I don't even know what it is. Will a 500w MH fixture be enough for my softies? I know nothing about MH, my current lighting is 50/50 pc. I think it might come with a canister filter. Should I use it? Should I take the media out of it and use....what? I don't think it has a sump, but it does have a skimmer. Give me all your best set-up tips so I can get a few more things right this time around, pleeeeeease
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Old 08-27-2009, 08:01 PM   #2
SoK
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lots of gaps and openings in the LR for better flow and less detritus build up, but it comes to preference on exactualy what shapes.

idk what starboard is, i'm interested to see other responses.

1 500w is a lot, why not 2 150's w/ t5 actinic bulbs for just softies?

i don't use a canister filter, but some do. most on here that i see do not.

what kinda skimmer? if its prism or seaclone, sell it/trash it and get something that'll work well.
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Old 08-27-2009, 08:15 PM   #3
MedicMike
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starboard is a fancy name for plastic board. Its similar to the plastic that some cutting boards are made of. If your going BB which it sounds like you are it would be a good idea. One good rock slide could cost you some serious heartache on bare glass. The board isn't neccesary alot of people with BB dont use it, it really boils down to personal prefferance.
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Old 08-27-2009, 08:15 PM   #4
bcrum51
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ok 500watt haildes arent bad if thats what the tank comes with assuming there are 2 250watt lights but...... your softies will need acclimated to the light or they will bleach out and possible die you could always sell them and get some T5's canister filters will work but they are a nitrate trap and can cause some issues in the future f you run a good skimmer and enough live rock the filter really can be left out of the setup
I personally would trash the old substrate cook the rock and start from the begining especially if you dont know the previous own never know what kind of issues you might have if you can incorparate a sump into the equation it would make things much better but it can be worked around
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Old 08-27-2009, 09:28 PM   #5
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Get you an awesome skimmer a good sturdy powerhead such as the MP40 and your looking at the right lights. I would run 2 250's personally.....but its preference......and what are you going to keep. If your keeping SPS......250's are golden. If you want a softie/mixed reef then 150's will do fine.
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Old 08-27-2009, 10:38 PM   #6
gbmortie
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I don't know what kind of skimmer I'm getting. I didn't ask. Basically I'm getting a 90 with stand and all the stuff that was in it for $300. I have never dealt with MH lights before, I wouldn't mind t5's instead. Currently I have a 130w 50/50 pc fixture I don't think that will be enough for a 90 gallon tank, it's not even enough for my 55.

I was thinking of putting starboard in under the sand actually, just to spread out the weight of the rock evenly since I want to put the rock right on the bottom. I was going to use 1-2 inches of sand. I'm just afraid of the bottom glass breaking for some reason lol.

Should I take the opportunity to cook my own rock?

I don't know the first thing about MH lights. Anything I should know?

How do you recommend going about this? I've got my established tank running, it's been suggested that I cook some rock which I could do. Keep the tips coming, I'm trying to develop a plan but I'm not sure of the timeline.
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Old 08-27-2009, 10:41 PM   #7
gbmortie
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Oh - and I'm pretty much just into softies right now. Any suggestions on a good but not too expensive t5 unit?
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Old 08-27-2009, 10:47 PM   #8
bcrum51
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cook the rock your buying search the forum to find out how to cook it and if you are not gonna hop on the sps lps train anytime soon buy some good T5HO's maybe 8 lights indy reflectors find out what kind of skimmer your getting you dont need the starboard just do the DIY pvc thing to lift the rocks up to get flow under them
As far as you other tank keep it up and running until the new one is ready to go
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Old 08-27-2009, 11:21 PM   #9
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I know T5HO lights shimmer.....so dont everyone jump on me at the same time.......But nothing compares to the shimmer of a metal halide. Ive seen T5HO lights........and Ive seen halides......It doesnt really matter which way you go.........either way you will be happy. Either way your looking at 120ish a year to replace bulbs.......Its all about personal preference.......I personally like Halides more.......they do draw a little more power....but they give a nice pop.IMO. If the lights are coming with the setup........just stick with them. haha. the cheaper the better. Ive found that most people who sell setups.......have grosely inadequete skimmers. So when you do get it........post pics. Starboard works nice......seen a few BB tanks with it.......looks really good. Problem with it is.......you cant attach your rocks to it.......So you will want to drill it before you put it in your tank.......and put maybe a few acrylic rods to attach your rock on so they dont slide around your tank and bang up your walls of the aquarium.
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Old 08-27-2009, 11:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MedicMike View Post
starboard is a fancy name for plastic board. Its similar to the plastic that some cutting boards are made of. If your going BB which it sounds like you are it would be a good idea. One good rock slide could cost you some serious heartache on bare glass. The board isn't neccesary alot of people with BB dont use it, it really boils down to personal prefferance.

havent seen you around in a long time, hows things?
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Old 08-27-2009, 11:47 PM   #11
motorslave
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Hmm, many questions!
The starboard is used in a BB setup. If it is a glass tank I would say yes to the starboard for a BB to prevent breakage as mentioned. If its acrylic you don't need it. Going with a sand bed I would recommend doing something different, do a search here for rock lifts. There are many ways to do it but the simple way is using lengths of PVC pipe cut just a bit longer than the sand is deep and using these as stands for the rock. This will keep the rock off of the sand ( help prevent any potential wicking of nutrients from the sand to the rock), and will allow for flow under the rock which is very important and helpful.
The lighting can boil down to preference but there are a few things to consider. MH will alloow you to keep anything you want. There are many different K value of bulbs to choose from and they do have the nice shimmer. BUT, 500 watts of MH on a 90 will create a potential heat issue. Fans on the top of the water will help cool via evaporation. This will require am automatic top off to keep things stable ( youll want one anyhow). T5 sare about as ood as MH without the heat issue and due to the aray of bulb colors you can find exactly the color combo ou like. Personally I prefer the MH as they are tried and true.
I wouldnt worry about the canister filter unless you want to use it for carbon once in a while. As a filter I wouldnt suggest it. Mechanical filters trap all the detritus just fine but they dont remove it from the water thus allowing it to continue to decay and relaes all the nasty nutrients ino the water. A quality strong skimmer is the hot ticket. Skimmers will pull the goo OUT of the water, plus they kep things well oxygenated. Dont skimp on a skimmer, this is arguably the most important part of a healthy reef.
Get a sump. This is a big plus. DO it now before you get set up because you will want one later. Take this opportunity to do it. This will giuve you more volume ( better stability) and allow a place to keep equipmen other than the display. While doing the sump, drill the tank for the overflow as this is the best way top do it period. Its easy and can be done by anyone. It seems intimidating but its really quite simple and not as dangerous ( risk of breking) as one may think. I strongly recomend a sump. Make the sump as big as you can. Just get an old aquarium and silicone some baffles in there, doent need to be complicated, sinple is good.
As for cooking the rock, I would say YES! This takes time but it is well worth it. This will allow you to start your new tank with a clean slate so to speak. A rel good thing to do but it does take time.
One other very important thing to do is design good flow. Flow will allow the deritus to be skimmed out of the column and not settle on the rock or the sand bed. Flwo keeps things healthy and happy and is very important in the tank. The goal is to have no dead spots in the tank. Especially in areas you cant reack. You dont want any good piling up anywhere.
go over your design and ideas over and over. Post them here for everyone to see and analyze. Above all, TAKE YOUR TIME!!!
Look through my build ( linkin my sig) it looks like a complicated system but it really isnt. The flow is designed to do most of the work in the tank and the whole system works fairly effortlessly.
Keep posting ideas and uestions nd post a lot of pics!!!
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Old 08-28-2009, 09:48 AM   #12
gbmortie
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Thanks for all your answers. I always wanted a sump in my 55 but the cabinet wasn't big enough. Sumps also scare me to death. I have nightmares about the power going out and the return pump not coming back on and the thing just continuing to drain the display and destroying the floor and stuff...could that actually happen?

I don't think PC's shimmer...I'm okay with lights that don't. I will look into rock lifts.

Should I cook my own rock, too? Any other helpful hints? What type of aquascaping design should I use? Currently I have the "rock wall" type and I don't like it.
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Old 08-28-2009, 10:35 AM   #13
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Can an overflow happen.........yes. It happend 4 times to me until I got my tank drilled. Drill your tank! Do NOT use a siphon overflow. If your in planning stages, buy the tank with the built in overflow. Its the only way to go. If you do that.....and use anti siphon holes on your return line.....floods are VERY VERY VERY rare. If you design the sump correctly......they wont happen at all. Everyone says cook your rock.....ive never done it but im sure it would be helpful. if you dont like the (wall) try two pillars. I like that. Check out Nanogurl and Onyxs build. They have a three tier aquascape. its pretty sick.
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Old 08-28-2009, 10:36 AM   #14
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Forgot.........Get you a 1500VA UPS (Uniterupted Power Supply) and you can run powerheads in your tank for a few days with no power.
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Old 08-28-2009, 11:28 AM   #15
gbmortie
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Actually my tank is connected to a UPS. We went on vacation for 17 days this summer and even though I had someone looking in on the tank every couple of days, I was afraid the power would go out from a storm or something and some pump or something wouldn't start back up and I would have problems - so it's already able to run for hours at least without power (the whole thing, lights and all are plugged into the ups) but I could tweak it so it was just the pumps.

I'm really, really, scared of drilling a glass tank...
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