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Old 11-29-2012, 05:17 PM   #1
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Hatchery Build


The clowns are laying eggs no matter what I do to the tank now. I've moved them between tanks and they still lay eggs within a couple of weeks. That said, I am starting to think that I will finally get to raise some fry. I want to get a small hatchery built and all of my research done on feeding before I get any further into this.

What are the best size tanks to rear them in, 10g or 20g?

Are most 10 and 20 gallon tanks tempered on the bottom?

I'm sure more questions will come up as I get this going.
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:13 PM   #2
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Most small tanks from Aqueon or Perfecto are not tempered. I'd consider 15g or 20g high aquariums. They have thicker glass than a 10g making them easier to drill. They are also the same 24x12 footprint and keeping everything in 2ft increments makes setup easier. One 4ft shoplight covers two 2ft aquariums for example. You can also incorporate a 4ft 55g tank in the same space as two of the 2ft tanks. This makes everything mix and match so to speak and will allow you to modify the system to fit your needs as they change.

For larval rearing, I'd look into the BRT's (black round tubs).

In case you haven't found it yet, MOFIB is a wealth of information on all aspects of breeding. http://www.marinebreeder.org/forums/viewforum.php?f=169
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Old 11-30-2012, 02:32 PM   #3
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I thought I had joined over there before but I guess I had not. Taken care of now. I do think I am going to go with the 20g high tanks. I have plenty of time on this since I have not prepared at all to get this going. I still have to decide if I am going to set this up in the basement or if I am going to wait until my son moves out in May and use the spare bedroom.

Still not sure how many tanks I am going to setup. I plan on a sump to tie all of the others to. I will likely move my non-breeding ocellaris to one tank to try and get them going. I know I will need one hatch tank and at least one grow-out tank. Already looking at four plus work space for the rotifers and phyto.
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Current tank - 40g Breeder - BeanAnimal C2C Overflow & DIY Stand, percula clownfish; Hamilton Metal Halide 250W + T5 HO Belize Sun Light Fixture, 20 high sump w/ Reef Octopus SRO 1000 INT skimmer, 2 - Tunze Turbelle Stream 6105 w/ 7096 Multicontroller
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Old 11-30-2012, 04:05 PM   #4
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What is the advantage of the 20H vs 20L?
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Old 11-30-2012, 04:18 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug1 View Post
What is the advantage of the 20H vs 20L?
The footprint is the only advantage. As mentioned above, it has the same footprint as the 10g, 15g and half the size of a 55g. It just allows for more flexibility as things grow.
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Current tank - 40g Breeder - BeanAnimal C2C Overflow & DIY Stand, percula clownfish; Hamilton Metal Halide 250W + T5 HO Belize Sun Light Fixture, 20 high sump w/ Reef Octopus SRO 1000 INT skimmer, 2 - Tunze Turbelle Stream 6105 w/ 7096 Multicontroller
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Old 11-30-2012, 07:54 PM   #6
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Standard 10g's are 20"x10". That in addition to the thin glass is the reason that I would avoid them.

Typically, you would not put broodstock and larval tanks on the same filtration system. I'd consider doing separate systems.

Here is a shot of a system that I setup for broodstock when I was planning on breeding clowns. I ended up being to busy to continue with it and the setup was sold to a local member named Jjay. You can see how the tanks are interchangeable by keeping a standard footprint. A removable tank design is also something to consider because it allows for easy cleaning. He may be able to post some pics of how the tanks sit over the drain. They can be removed easily for cleaning or replacement without disconnecting any plumbing. Using separate return valves or a manifold will also allow one tank to be taken offline without affecting the others.

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Old 11-30-2012, 07:55 PM   #7
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Jjays build is here. http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f1...ry-193540.html
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:34 PM   #8
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Not looking to go quite that large just yet. I have my clowns in 2 display tanks right now. The perculas will only lay eggs if I have an anemone with them (history over their egg laying). I plan on keeping this pair in the display. The ocellaris will get moved from their display once I get this up and running.

Looking at the following as of now:

Broodstock tank (for ocellaris) - 20g high
Grow-out tank - 20g high
Hatch tank - 20g high
Sump - Not sure of the size on this one yet?

From what I have read so far, I would be best to not tie my broodstock tank to the same tank sump as the others.

Here is a picture of the perculas with their eggs from yesterday:
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:37 PM   #9
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haha, I thought Jay's tank setup looked familiar!

great news Eric, can't wait!

I hope one day my clowns will start laying!
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:29 PM   #10
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These two will hide at the top of the tank (and occasionally jump out) if they do not have an anemone. They will also not lay eggs if they do not have one. Add an anemone and they will lay within 2 weeks. Take it away and they are done until they get another one. The female has been around for about 7 years. The male is new as of last year.
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:44 PM   #11
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I did get a BTA about 4 months ago, but it was 100% bleached and about the size of a quarter, but now its finally starting to get some zoox back, and starting to grow...

maybe in a few months it will be large enough for them to do something with it, they are hanging around it half the time now..
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:45 PM   #12
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I did get a BTA about 4 months ago, but it was 100% bleached and about the size of a quarter, but now its finally starting to get some zoox back, and starting to grow...

maybe in a few months it will be large enough for them to do something with it, they are hanging around it half the time now..
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Old 12-11-2012, 03:40 PM   #13
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Plan at this point is to decide on exactly which tanks I want to add and then build a stand in the basement. I have to figure out my power as well. Everything in my basement right now is on one circuit. I want to run at least 2 circuits to the area before I start the build.

Closest LFS is about 1 hour away so I may try to make a trip this next weekend for some measurements.
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Current tank - 40g Breeder - BeanAnimal C2C Overflow & DIY Stand, percula clownfish; Hamilton Metal Halide 250W + T5 HO Belize Sun Light Fixture, 20 high sump w/ Reef Octopus SRO 1000 INT skimmer, 2 - Tunze Turbelle Stream 6105 w/ 7096 Multicontroller
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Old 12-11-2012, 03:49 PM   #14
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If your basement is unfinished and you have room in the main panel for additional breakers, adding a couple circuits to run the brood system on shouldn't be too difficult! Especially with the new tandem breakers they have to add two circuits to on breaker spot.

http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-...1#.UMec4XdCPTo

(Of course, you would need to make sure your main panel is compatible with whatever brand you pick up, the link I provided is purely to demonstrate what I am referring to!)
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Old 12-11-2012, 03:50 PM   #15
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It is unfinished. The breaker box is full but I am fairly certain that I can add slimline breakers to it. Still need to get the model number and breaker info.
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