| General Reef Discussion In this forum we discuss issues related to keeping marine and reef aquariums in a friendly flame-free environment. |
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06-26-2002, 01:49 PM
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#1
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REEFAHOLICS ANNONOMOUS
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: newyork city
Posts: 181
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glass top
wouldnt you guys worry about fish jumping out? mine did about 3 times.then theres the water rusting the vho which is encased in metal. i got glass in the end.the only thing is you have to clean it often and try getting that salt residue off .my sump is open for air exchange, isnt that enough?
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Manhattans Coral Reef Island
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06-26-2002, 02:28 PM
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#2
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double cappuccino
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: CA
Posts: 1,627
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The main issues are tank temp. management, oxygen exchange, and light reflection/blockage. With an open sump and a protein skimmer oxygen exchange shouldn't be a problem for you. Given your high evaporation rate and steady temps it doesn't sound like that is a problem either. That just leaves you with light blockage/reflection, which is not a minor concern. I don't know of any formula, but you are definitely losing some intensity due to the glass tops. It is your call whether or not they are worth it. Have you had saltwater damage to your lights in the past? Many people use no tops and have no problems - that is why they make sealed endcaps. If your fish are known escape artists like hawks, jawfish, eels, etc... then keep em, otherwise I would say lose them.
jmo,
Chris
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Utúlie'n aurë! Aiya Eldalië ar Atanatári, utúlie'n aurë!
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06-26-2002, 03:00 PM
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#3
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REEFAHOLICS ANNONOMOUS
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: newyork city
Posts: 181
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its really that the fish can jump out and my kids could pull the cords ans send a light into the tank. mine rest right on the tank.
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Manhattans Coral Reef Island
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06-26-2002, 04:44 PM
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#4
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Hail to the Redskins!!
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Gresham, OR
Posts: 1,133
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The main reason I leave the top of my 135 open is air transfer and heat expulsion. I had one fish jump out, which was just dumb luck. If you are worried about fish jumping out this is what I would do. Go to home depot or some lighting store, and get some egg-crate, like you see in office building lighting. Cut it to fit the top of your tank and ta-da! Problems solved. As far as your metal clips rusting... they are cheap, go buy more. Or put a coat of rustoleum on them first and they should last quite a bit longer.
-Big Dave
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There's nothing like feeding your starfish for your party guests!!
120 Reef
SDSBBNR (sorta deep sand bed but not really)
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06-26-2002, 07:15 PM
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#5
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Klingon
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Forest Grove, OR
Posts: 1,808
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Hi, put plexyglass over my 40g, no more salt in the electronics/lights. Clean it once a week. My turbo snails where climbing out and falling on the floor, 3 dead so far.
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40g 3' BB tank * 2 Seio 820's * 250w 14kk light * 190w actinic/10kk * DIY recirc skimmer.
~If I could only remember half of what I've learned~
~Jimbo~
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06-26-2002, 08:43 PM
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#6
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Jaguar Shark
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: MA
Posts: 1,083
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I have a glass canopy on my tank. i took those plastic strips off the back, so the back is always open to the air. In the warm weather, I leave the front lids open, leaving only glass under my lights. Seeing as I rest my lights right on top of it, I plan on keeping that glass there. I do plan on completely removing the front lids if I ever get around to building a hood.
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06-26-2002, 09:23 PM
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#7
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 21,062
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FWIW those of you that have PC or VHO resting on the glass, build a proper canopy and get them 4-6" off, if you have jumpers use the egg crate trick, lights right on the glass will rise tank temps
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I'm not going to wake you, I'll go easy on your heart
I'll just touch your face and drift away , like smoke rings in the dark
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