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Old 12-18-2006, 04:54 PM   #1
irish02bk
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Getting First Corals finally... HELP???


Okay so my tank has finally been up and running for 4.5 months now. I have a 55g with 40lbs LR 70lbs or LS 260w PC running with 12k and actinic. Two percula's, Cherub pygmy, sixline wrasse cleaner shrimp, some snails and red legs. I have a prism delux skimmer and for flow i have a fluval 305 with carbon and some bioloads in them? I have heard both keep the bio in and take it out? thats my first question on what too do? my water perm are Amonioa =0 Nitrite=0 PH 8.2 and Nitrate= 10

What else do i need to do for corals? test kits? power heads?

How can i get the purple Coraline on the glass too? i have it on the rocks just not on the back glass?

I would like to start out with some basic easy corals such as Zoo's. other softies? Really like the frogspawn if thats a possibility?

All help is welcome as with other corals to get? suggestions on the tank too?
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Old 12-18-2006, 05:00 PM   #2
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Lose the bio media.

In fact i would recommend selling the fluval altogether on ebay or soemthing and buying a simple two little fishies phosban reactor for $30 bucks to run your carbon every now and then when you want. Take the money you made and buy a nice frag of cool zoas.

The coralline will grow on its own time...just maintain your alk and calcium levels either by supplementation or regular water changes.

Zoas, mushrooms, and leathers would all do fine in your tank. As would LPS such as frogspawn, although the frogspawn would be happier with more lighting IMO.

You will want to get some powerheads or other means of better flow in the tank.

How you achieve that is really up to your budget and/or willingness to do a little DIY work if you wanted to do a cls.

As far as test kits. I recommend getting salifert calcium and dkh. Any cheap test will work fine for nitrates as that number will reduce signifigantly or go away on its won as your tank matures and your husbandry habits improve. Ammonia and nitrate arent necessary IMO. If you are missing a large fish....find it and get it out.

I also recommend getting a pinpoint ph monitor instead fo test kits. Over time it probably costs a little more, but it is nice to know at all times what your ph is. Once you get a feel for your tank you wont even need to test alkalinity as you can simply see when you need to add buffer according to what your ph monitor tells you.
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Zoa and paly pics HERE
SPS pics HERE

Last edited by Fly Guy; 12-18-2006 at 05:06 PM.
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Old 12-18-2006, 05:09 PM   #3
irish02bk
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What should Calcium levels be at? I usually do about a 2-3 gallon water change a week.
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Old 12-18-2006, 05:14 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by irish02bk View Post
What should Calcium levels be at? I usually do about a 2-3 gallon water change a week.
380-460 is standard practice. I like to keep mine at 420 or so, But i have a lot of calcium hogs(sps and clams) in my tanks that are sucking about 25 points a day off that number.

Keep in mind that by doing small water changes like that arent doing near as much good as a larger change more infrequently. By doing really small ones like that you are only diluting dirty water very slightly. I would actually recommend doing a 15 gallon every other week in your case, or even a 10 gallon every week depending on how well your skimmer is working.
If your skimmer is working well, and you dont overfeed, you could probably get away with much less than that as you dont have any corals to speak of using up much of the elements.
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Old 12-18-2006, 05:16 PM   #5
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Ca should be about 420ppm. As for what types of corals you can keep. LPS and softies. You can keep the frogspawn with your current lights. Just place it in the top half of your tank. You are pushing just about 5watts per gallon of water and that is just about right for the easier corals. You need to up that by about 3 watts pergallon if you want to keep SPS. Get a few powerheads for flow and set up a refugium for your tank and ditch the canister. I agree a phosban reactor is fine if you want to run carbon or the like.
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